actually, of the 50+ wrecked bikes I have bought and sold in the past 12 months, this one is by far one of the nicest and cleanest examples.
By the way, that's a brilliant observation there Einstein!!!! You are pure genius!!!! Your ability to quickly and accurately spot hidden damage is absolutely astounding!!!!! Please, tell me, tell US, how DO you do it???!!! Enlighten us all, please!!!! Moron.....
It's half-wit's like you that drop your bike in the driveway and let the insurance company bend you over and butt-rape you, so I can buy it from the auctions for a song, fix it, and sell it right back to you!!!!
"Slight cosmetic damage, all the plastic is destroyed and it needs a headlight"
Slight cosmetic damage:
bar ends, grab rails, muffler is rashed, yes, these things fall into the category of SLIGHT COSMETIC DAMAGE.
"All the plastic is destroyed"
Really????!!!! If glasses aren't your cup of tea, perhaps LASIK is something you should investigate??? The tank, tail, and fender are almost flawless. Look again. Yes, it needs front, l & r plastics, and a headlight. So what?????
"Seriously though, there is a lot of work to be done there, and lord knows that replacement plastics aren't cheap!"
Er.... You guys not be very mechanically inclined!!!! Perhaps the opinion around here is that "wrenching" on a bike constitutes installing flush mount signals and an undertail or something! Sure, this bike needs a few simple "hard parts" replaced (footpeg bracket, right clip-on, that kinda thing). With a set of painters plastics ($75-$100) it could be back on the road. I do custom paintwork, so finding very affordable plastics to paint is no problem for me. Which brings me right back to my original point: there are plenty of guys who have the skills, tools, and interest in doing a rebuilder, and for those guys, this bike is an excellent starting point, and could be back on the road and looking great for a total investment of probably $4500!!! I've fabricated new subframes for R1's, taken ZX9R's to Computrack to have frames straightened, and sent 929 wheels to Motomorphic in CA to be straightened. This ZX-6R needs NONE of that specialized work, just some simple bolt on parts. If your inclination is not to get involved with a re-builder bike becuase you have a poor grasp of the fundamental mechanical principals required to complete the project, that's ok!!! Just don't go on the attack with me like I'M the one who doesn't know what I am talking about!!!!
If you looked at some of the ads here you have probably figured out that you can buy a bike without a salvage title for less than $5,000. A salvage title will easily knock off $1,000 from the value of the bike.
If I wanted to buy a bike with a salvage title I would buy it from the insurance company not some middle man and save the $1,000 or so you expect to make.
"If I wanted to buy a bike with a salvage title I would buy it from the insurance company not some middle man"
*****YEAH, sure thing buddy. Using your DEALERS LICENSE, right???!!! You can't buy them from the insurance companies, you don't have a dealers license! Insurance companies (except for a few very rare occasions) do not sell directly to anyone. All the bikes go to dealer/insurance auctions.
"If you looked at some of the ads here you have probably figured out that you can buy a bike without a salvage title for less than $5,000"
*****Really!!!! Please, provide a ling for a clean, undamaged, 2002 ZX-6R with less than 1000 miles for LESS THAN $5000! I'd like to buy it!
"A salvage title will easily knock off $1,000 from the value of the bike"
*****Oh really???!!!! You should just be quiet now. You are in way over your head, and obviously have NO idea what you are talking about....
That's exactly what I mean... Even IF, and I emphasize IF, you get plastics for $1,000, then you have to paint. Good body work is FAR from cheap. Add to that all the other "hard parts". Now you're at what, $2,000 total? Not too bad, right?
Now add all the miscalaneous parts like gromets, bolts, clips, brackets and all the other good stuff that breaks off in even a basic accident. We're not even including all the stuff that would have to be straightened!
On that note, why would you EVER straighten a bike frame? I don't know about you, but no matter how well it gets straightened, it will never be "100% true".
The truth is out there...
...its just a matter of knowing where to look.
Canada sure does shit out some damn funny comedians our way, I'll give em that. bdsbigzrx sure does hate swjohnsey, huh? Actually, that bike is a pretty sweet deal and you'll be saving money in the end. I'm with ya bdsbigzrx, but please go easy on good ole swjohnsey...What do you estimate it would take, financially, to get that bike back to 100%, bdsbigzrx? I'm inquiring for my cousin...
"On that note, why would you EVER straighten a bike frame? I don't know about you, but no matter how well it gets straightened, it will never be "100% true"."
BBWWAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAAHAAAAAAAAAAAHAAAAAAAAA!!!!!!!!!!! Never heard of GMDComputrack, huh rookie???????!!!!!!! Don't spend much time around the races, eh???!!! But hey, you know sooooooooo much more than all the multi-million dollar factory race teams!!!! Oh my God, I am cying tears I am laughing so hard!!!!!! Lateral twist on BRAND new sportbike frames has been shown to sometimes exceed 13 degrees right off the showroom floor, NEW. R1's have been shown to have 1 degree difference in rake/trail figures, NEW, becuase of manufacturing tolerances being off a bit from frame to frame. The Kawasaki ZX line-up (as well as R-6's) are more prone to shortening the wheelbase in an accident, because of the location of the most forward motor mount on the main frame spar. They "tuck" easier than the GSXR's and CBR's. Go look at the most forward motor mount on the ZX-6/9. It's at the back of the cylinder head (do I need to tell you where to look to find the cylinder head???) Compare that to the MM on the CBR's and GSXR's. They have one way up front, which helps add structural rigidity to the frame, and prevent's it from "tucking" in an accident (ah hell, you already new all this anyway, right??????). GMDComputrack typically charges $800 do give your bike the "sweet numbers", but you gotta take them a rolling chassis. At any rate, it's irrelevant as it relates to this discussion, other than to facilitate my argument that you are a bumbling idiot. I'll just stop there.....
"Even IF, and I emphasize IF, you get plastics for $1,000, then you have to paint."
HAAAHAHAAA!!!! Hey, I will not only obtain painters plastics for this bike for you, but will ALSO custom paint them to match the stock paintjob, for $500-$700!!!!!!! WHERE are you buying painters plastic from (ie: rashed up and scratched) that you are paying $1000 for a front and 2 side fairings?????!!!!!! HAaahaaahaaahaa!!!!! Man, I need to sell YOU some parts!!!!!
(Man, I gotta tell ya, you guys are cracking me up here!!!!!)
"Actually, that bike is a pretty sweet deal and you'll be saving money in the end. I'm with ya bdsbigzrx, but please go easy on good ole swjohnsey...What do you estimate it would take, financially, to get that bike back to 100%, bdsbigzrx? I'm inquiring for my cousin..."
Ahhhhhh...... Finally, someone with some sense! depends how much of the work he was willing to do himself. My estimate (erring on the safe side) would be $700 for paint and bodywork (includes buying the painters plastics), $500-$700 for parts, and that, honestly, would be about it. That puts you at between $5000 and $5200. I might be willing to budge a little on the price, if he's serious. Hell, for that matter, I'd consider finishing the bike for him, if you added a little extra something to it to cover my time spent spinning wrenches. Shipping through ForwardAir is typically $350, assuming there is a terminal near you that could be utilized for the pick-up on your end. I also have an 02 Katana 600 with only 855 miles, needs a headlight ($215), 2 front signals ($40), a screen ($50), 2 mirrors ($30), and a right side generator cover ($20), and it would be almost 100% perfect. I have already done the paintwork and plastic repair on the Kat. I would do $3700 on it as well, so you'd have just a hair over $4000 in it.....
"On that note, why would you EVER straighten a bike frame? I don't know about you, but no matter how well it gets straightened, it will never be "100% true".
FYI, it is neither an uncommon or unsafe practice (even by FACTORY RACE TEAMS!) to straighten frames, wheels, forks, triple clamps, axles, and all sorts of other bits, when the work is performed by a qualifed, respected, and experienced facility. Many times, this exact service is performed on brand new bikes, before the teams even build them up. Only reason they don't do it on street bikes is it's cost prohibitive, and they have manufacturing tolerances the deem suitable.......
bdsbigzrx, I'll get in contact with my cousin and see which bike he leans toward. I'm thinking the Kanatuna, seeing as it will be his first bike and that should be a pretty decent starter bike. So the price is 4K totally repaired? Would it be possible to shoot me some pics? Thanks...
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