Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums banner
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

New to this forum, created an account in hope someone here could help me out.

A few weeks ago I unfortunately went swimming with my 2005 zx6r. Got water into the engine and god knows where else. Bike is going to be sold (for parts maybe).
But before I sell it I wanted to see if I could make it run again (mostly curiosity). So, drained the engine, replaced oil, fuel etc. engine seems to turn smoothly so I have some hopes for it running okay.
But when I wanted to start it back up again the fuel pump did not want to start. I checked all of the things I knew how to check which is:
  • Does the pump work directly on 12v supply: yes
  • Are all the fuses okay: yes
  • does the start inhibitor switch work: yes
  • Do I get 12 to the coil of the ECU main relay: yes (brown wire to the ECU relay)
  • Do I get 12V to the coil of the fuel pump switch: yes (red wire to the connector for fuel pump relay)
  • Do I get 12V to the W/R wire to the fuel pump: No
  • Does the relay for the ECU still work? Yes tested by supplying 12V to pins 5+10 could hear the relay switch (see second picture)
  • Does the relay for the Fuel pump still work? Yes tested by supplying 12V to pins 1+7 could hear the relay switch
So, I'm no electrical engineer by any means but looking at the diagram it looks like that as soon as the ignition is switched on both the ECU and the fuel pump relay are fed with 12V. So the ECU turns on and then it decides when the fuel pump relay coil is energized (maybe by some internal transistor or something idk.). So if that is correct than it is the ECU telling the fuel pump not to run. Could that be correct? And if so, for what reason could it do this? ECU broken, fuel injection system fault? something else?

I tried using the self diagnosis system by grounding the self diagnosis terminal, but could not get it to work. Do I need the master key for this? if any know how to use this, that would be great.

Any ideas on this whole situation would be fantastic, thanks in advance,

Thomas
Font Schematic Parallel Rectangle Slope


Product Rectangle Font Parallel Pattern
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
649 Posts
You don't need a Master (Red) key to start the Bike if the User (Black)is programmed to the ECU.
Have you checked the Vehicle Down Sensor ?
This will stop the Bike running (Fuel Pump won't prime)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You don't need a Master (Red) key to start the Bike if the User (Black)is programmed to the ECU.
Have you checked the Vehicle Down Sensor ?
This will stop the Bike running (Fuel Pump won't prime)
Yes, I meant for the self-diagnosis system to work I thought you might need the master key. But not sure.
Ah yes, I hadn't thought of that one, smart. Any ideas on how to check that? Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
649 Posts
No you don't need the Master key, Fi Codes will read regardless of the Red or Black Keys.
Do you have the Factory service Manual ? As it details any checks for components.

FUEL SYSTEM (DFI) 3-67
Details the checks..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No you don't need the Master key, Fi Codes will read regardless of the Red or Black Keys.
Do you have the Factory service Manual ? As it details any checks for components.

FUEL SYSTEM (DFI) 3-67
Details the checks..
Ah okay, must've been doing it wrong then. I took the self-diagnosis terminal and stuck a wire in it, (dont have a connector like that) and held that to the negative terminal of the battery. But no FI code appeared.

Yes I do have the manual, thats where I got the diagrams. I'll check that next weekend. Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
No you don't need the Master key, Fi Codes will read regardless of the Red or Black Keys.
Do you have the Factory service Manual ? As it details any checks for components.

FUEL SYSTEM (DFI) 3-67
Details the checks..
Maybe a dumb question but I checked the manual and it says to measure the voltage coming from the sensor with the connector joined. Not sure on how to do that. It says something about a needle adapter set, which I googled, and they literally look like needles. How does that work? stick them through the insulation of the wire or something?
Never used something like that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
649 Posts
Yes that's exactly what you do, It's called Back Probing.
They push onto your existing Multi Meter Probes or you can get them that attach to the end of you test leads if you have a set that will accommodate.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
To confirm spark, spray some starting fluid into the air box, if it kicks over and runs a little, then you can be sure it’s a fuel issue. When you turn on the key, do you hear the fuel pump prime? Have you checked all your fuses? Is your new battery fully charged? Most new batteries are not fully charged.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Hi all,

New to this forum, created an account in hope someone here could help me out.

A few weeks ago I unfortunately went swimming with my 2005 zx6r. Got water into the engine and god knows where else. Bike is going to be sold (for parts maybe).
But before I sell it I wanted to see if I could make it run again (mostly curiosity). So, drained the engine, replaced oil, fuel etc. engine seems to turn smoothly so I have some hopes for it running okay.
But when I wanted to start it back up again the fuel pump did not want to start. I checked all of the things I knew how to check which is:
  • Does the pump work directly on 12v supply: yes
  • Are all the fuses okay: yes
  • does the start inhibitor switch work: yes
  • Do I get 12 to the coil of the ECU main relay: yes (brown wire to the ECU relay)
  • Do I get 12V to the coil of the fuel pump switch: yes (red wire to the connector for fuel pump relay)
  • Do I get 12V to the W/R wire to the fuel pump: No
  • Does the relay for the ECU still work? Yes tested by supplying 12V to pins 5+10 could hear the relay switch (see second picture)
  • Does the relay for the Fuel pump still work? Yes tested by supplying 12V to pins 1+7 could hear the relay switch
So, I'm no electrical engineer by any means but looking at the diagram it looks like that as soon as the ignition is switched on both the ECU and the fuel pump relay are fed with 12V. So the ECU turns on and then it decides when the fuel pump relay coil is energized (maybe by some internal transistor or something idk.). So if that is correct than it is the ECU telling the fuel pump not to run. Could that be correct? And if so, for what reason could it do this? ECU broken, fuel injection system fault? something else?

I tried using the self diagnosis system by grounding the self diagnosis terminal, but could not get it to work. Do I need the master key for this? if any know how to use this, that would be great.

Any ideas on this whole situation would be fantastic, thanks in advance,

Thomas
View attachment 141068

View attachment 141069
Yo-yo


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top