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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

Since a couple weeks, my Er6n can't seem te reach its stock top speed of 200km/hr
It only reaches about 169 to 175 with the throttle completely open.
I had to retension the chain around the period it started, can it be related?
Also I have a F1 notification, wich is could be my injection beiing a little stuffed or dirty from fueling dirty gas ( I had to gas in a station i dont use alot, and since then the light went on) note, that when I completely shut my bike of, and back on, the light is gone, it does seem to be coming back on when im revving high rpm's while driving, not when in neutral gear and revving.
I have a servica manual (570pages thick) where I found the possible issues as I described you them.

Kind of want to be sure since there are some things i dont understand.. yet :)

Hope you guys can help :)
Thx in advance
 

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There are many factors affecting top speed, especially when it comes to naked bikes like wind, road inclination, gas quality, bike condition and rider's stance.

A worn out or defective chain / sprocket set can cost you hp and smooth operation so it is definitely a contributing factor (I changed my chain and sprocket recently and saw great improvement).

Have yours checked by an experience mechanic (especially the front sprocket) and also take care of that FI indication too and you should hit 200km/h easily :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hello again,

Thanks for the info, I did a compression test today, showing a 13kgf compression on both cilinders, knowing it has to be between 9.8 (beiing the worn out border) and 15kgf (beiing the top limit i guess) so my bike's engine condition is good for beiing 10yrs old and having a bad maintanance history before i bought it.

I also checked my airbox for false air beiing sucked in, meaning it has a leak behind the filter, I noticed some dirt on the behind the filter chamber of the box, so thats why i checked, nothng unusual there tho it seems...

as for my aerodynamics... yeah, i think i kinda lost alot by replacing the stock headlight and meter with the aftermarket koso and Urban street headlight... altho 30km/h? pretty much :/
I bought some Injection cleaner to see if that fixes my FI indication, since im convinced it's dirty injection is the cauze of that.
This weekend ill be picking up my "Beast" tho... a 1983, 1100 cc yamaha virago I bobbed out last year :p
Ill keep you posted about the kawasaki to tho.

Thanks for reading, please feel free to advise or comment.... and VRooooaaaaM till next time :)
 

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Hello again,

Thanks for the info, I did a compression test today, showing a 13kgf compression on both cilinders, knowing it has to be between 9.8 (beiing the worn out border) and 15kgf (beiing the top limit i guess) so my bike's engine condition is good for beiing 10yrs old and having a bad maintanance history before i bought it.

I also checked my airbox for false air beiing sucked in, meaning it has a leak behind the filter, I noticed some dirt on the behind the filter chamber of the box, so thats why i checked, nothng unusual there tho it seems...

as for my aerodynamics... yeah, i think i kinda lost alot by replacing the stock headlight and meter with the aftermarket koso and Urban street headlight... altho 30km/h? pretty much :/
I bought some Injection cleaner to see if that fixes my FI indication, since im convinced it's dirty injection is the cauze of that.
This weekend ill be picking up my "Beast" tho... a 1983, 1100 cc yamaha virago I bobbed out last year :p
Ill keep you posted about the kawasaki to tho.

Thanks for reading, please feel free to advise or comment.... and VRooooaaaaM till next time :)
You are welcome my friend and I hope that you will solve the problem soon. Good to know that the engine is in good nick too, which is what matters most.

Concerning the headlight - meter change I must note that the stock combination is unnaturally good when it comes to wind protection, thus making our bike by far the best naked I 've ever ridden in that respect, so maybe the new stance indeed shaves off a couple of km/h.

And don't forget to post some pics of that bobbed out Virago too, it sounds like a very interesting project!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You are welcome my friend and I hope that you will solve the problem soon. Good to know that the engine is in good nick too, which is what matters most.

Concerning the headlight - meter change I must note that the stock combination is unnaturally good when it comes to wind protection, thus making our bike by far the best naked I 've ever ridden in that respect, so maybe the new stance indeed shaves off a couple of km/h.

And don't forget to post some pics of that bobbed out Virago too, it sounds like a very interesting project!
check my album,
http://www.kawiforums.com/members/176506-guy-backelant-albums2762-yamaha-rebuild.html

hope you'll like it as much as i do :)
note that because my gf still wanted to be able to ride with me i wasnt allowed to cut of the backseat :( still looks good imo :)
 

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Looks good, it seems that you toned down the chrome bling that originally came with the 1100.


I can still detect some gold engine details which blend nice with the general look of the bike.
Hey,

Its nice to read that you like what i did to it, I toned down the chrome big time indeed, i'm not a bling kind of guy, so...
I tried to merge the original 1100's look with what I really wanted and like, such as the gass tank's airbrushed sides i kept, the front fender also, altho it wasnt easy.
The rear fender I lowered 7 cm so the gap between the itre and the fender is smaller and looks sleaker, altho its disadvantage is that i cant take a 100kg heavy person on the back because with bumps the tire hits the fender.
Generally I'm pretty pleased with the end result, specially because I didnt have any experience or education to fuel this project, I kinda went with it as it came.
this project made me see what I want to do as a hobby, and hopefully one day my job...

THanks for appreciating my work :)
You'll definately hear from me in the future :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hey there, me again...

I'm still having the "not reaching the stock top speed" of 200 km/hr
Today i took my rear fenders of and made some blocks so I could raise the back end off the ground, to check the drive (wether or not it turns smoothly, and if not, where does it come from)
While letting the feel spin freely, i noticed a change in my chain running over my sprockets, it always came back on the same spot, making alot f noise when driving... so i took a closer look, like you can see in the picture below...
It seems that some pieces are missing between my chainlinks... is this normal, i suppose not... but what can i do about it?
Do i need a full new chain?
I cleaned up my chain and sprockets with degreeser (and God there was alot f gunk coming off) and regreases them with silicon chain lube... i have to say its alot better, but im still not sure about what to do next... luckely i got my Old times so i can drive to shool (im re-educating myself) because im a little reluctant (scared) driving with this chain...

Any tips? feel free to comment :)

thx in advance
 

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Hey there, me again...

I'm still having the "not reaching the stock top speed" of 200 km/hr
Today i took my rear fenders of and made some blocks so I could raise the back end off the ground, to check the drive (wether or not it turns smoothly, and if not, where does it come from)
While letting the feel spin freely, i noticed a change in my chain running over my sprockets, it always came back on the same spot, making alot f noise when driving... so i took a closer look, like you can see in the picture below...
It seems that some pieces are missing between my chainlinks... is this normal, i suppose not... but what can i do about it?
Do i need a full new chain?
I cleaned up my chain and sprockets with degreeser (and God there was alot f gunk coming off) and regreases them with silicon chain lube... i have to say its alot better, but im still not sure about what to do next... luckely i got my Old times so i can drive to shool (im re-educating myself) because im a little reluctant (scared) driving with this chain...

Any tips? feel free to comment :)

thx in advance
Hi, it is always recommended to change both sprockets along with the chain, I did it recently and saw great improvement despite the fact that the old chain was still in good condition.

This is the chain kit I fitted (DID 520VX2 x-ring), and it is recommended by other users too:

https://www.louis.eu/artikel/did-chain-kit-chain-pinion-sprocket-fuer-kawasaki-er-6n/10048000?filter_bike_id=1430&list=101459202&filter_article_number=10048103

http://www.kawiforums.com/ninja-650r-er6/343169-chain-sprocket-reccomendations.html
 

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Discussion Starter #11
linked parts reliability

Hi, it is always recommended to change both sprockets along with the chain, I did it recently and saw great improvement despite the fact that the old chain was still in good condition.

This is the chain kit I fitted (DID 520VX2 x-ring), and it is recommended by other users too:

https://www.louis.eu/artikel/did-chain-kit-chain-pinion-sprocket-fuer-kawasaki-er-6n/10048000?filter_bike_id=1430&list=101459202&filter_article_number=10048103

http://www.kawiforums.com/ninja-650r-er6/343169-chain-sprocket-reccomendations.html
Hey,
thanks for the great link, the price is ... really cheap compared what i pay here, Im not familiar with the codings yet, I just know I payed 240 euro on a set last year, did 25000 km with them, and I kinda expect my next set to do no less, if even, better than that.
As I might have stated earlier, I ame a daily driver, I dont own a car... so I neeed reliable day to day basis value :)
not to dissaprove your link, im just stating my expectations towards parts.
If you can guarantee that with your experience, i will probably get them so i can get cruising with my Er6n

Not that i hate driving like a boss with my Virago
 

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Discussion Starter #12
thanks for the link

“Replace the chain early and most times you can run two chains to one set of sprockets.”
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From:
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Motorcycle Chain Maintenance | Canyon Chasers Motorcycle Sport Touring
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Another choice for the chain brand:
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https://www.motomummy.com/chains/ek-3d-chain/
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Hey, thanks for the links, but i'm from europe Belgium, not that i checked their delivery locations, but I thought GR riders link was more... appealing :p

For the video about chain adjustement, I allready bookmarked it before, and yes its very informative, thanks nonetheless :)

Greets
 

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Hey,
thanks for the great link, the price is ... really cheap compared what i pay here, Im not familiar with the codings yet, I just know I payed 240 euro on a set last year, did 25000 km with them, and I kinda expect my next set to do no less, if even, better than that.
As I might have stated earlier, I ame a daily driver, I dont own a car... so I neeed reliable day to day basis value :)
not to dissaprove your link, im just stating my expectations towards parts.
If you can guarantee that with your experience, i will probably get them so i can get cruising with my Er6n

Not that i hate driving like a boss with my Virago
Unfortunately I can't share any personal experience about strength over time because I just fitted my set.

A friend of mine with the same bike commutes 120kms every day and didn't have to tighten the chain after 5000+kms and this is always a good sign.

I am sure that you will easily get 25k kms out of it if you don't hit top speed all the time :grin2:
 

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“Replace the chain early and most times you can run two chains to one set of sprockets.”
-
From:
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Motorcycle Chain Maintenance | Canyon Chasers Motorcycle Sport Touring
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-

Another choice for the chain brand:
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https://www.motomummy.com/chains/ek-3d-chain/
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I really think that even wear is very important when it comes to chains/sprockets and it is much safer to achieve that by replacing them together.

Sprockets do wear and most of the times unevenly so we end up with a brand new chain on worn out sprockets. That means that we don't get all the benefits of a new chain and it wears faster too.

Anyway, that 3D chain looks really nice, I really like the weight reduction treatment. You only remember how freaking heavy chains are when you get to fit them on the bike :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
hey , to GR rider, and those intrested

I can't reply to your private message yet since i dont have 15 posts yet, im sure ill be there soon tho :)
Again thanks for the link, it will come in very handy, i kinda need new brake disks and pads to you see :p
i have read on this forum that the The Michelin Pilot Road 4 tires are good for rain condition driving, and since i live in oh so "dry" Belgium.... (sarcasm, becauze it rains like 200 days a year here) those will be ordered for the next change up, to be honest, i need some more, im thinking of changing the exhaaust for a more "deep rumbling" sound, I'm looking for a good rim repair shop because i have a dent in my front rim :/
need new levers since the stock ones kinda look outdated with the updated look (see my garage) and so on and so on...
I'm still struggling with, either go cheap and replace soon, or pay big and hopefully last a lifetime, why i say this is bec i bought some mirrors from "Chine" (China), and the screws are rusting allready :/
had the same with some f my Virago aftermarket parts... I should have known... altho, i bought a mirror set here in Belgium, payed alot for them.. and the bolts rust to... so "frustrating"
anyways, I we (me and my bike) have a long way ahead f us, i'm just hoping that by the time I ame finished with her, my engine will be having around 100k km on it :p
Wich makes me wonder about its life expectancy... Well, i can't say I didnt have fun doing it all so far tho :)

I will conclude with, C you around yall and feel free to comment
G.
 

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hey , to GR rider, and those intrested

I can't reply to your private message yet since i dont have 15 posts yet, im sure ill be there soon tho :)
Again thanks for the link, it will come in very handy, i kinda need new brake disks and pads to you see :p
i have read on this forum that the The Michelin Pilot Road 4 tires are good for rain condition driving, and since i live in oh so "dry" Belgium.... (sarcasm, becauze it rains like 200 days a year here) those will be ordered for the next change up, to be honest, i need some more, im thinking of changing the exhaaust for a more "deep rumbling" sound, I'm looking for a good rim repair shop because i have a dent in my front rim :/
need new levers since the stock ones kinda look outdated with the updated look (see my garage) and so on and so on...
I'm still struggling with, either go cheap and replace soon, or pay big and hopefully last a lifetime, why i say this is bec i bought some mirrors from "Chine" (China), and the screws are rusting allready :/
had the same with some f my Virago aftermarket parts... I should have known... altho, i bought a mirror set here in Belgium, payed alot for them.. and the bolts rust to... so "frustrating"
anyways, I we (me and my bike) have a long way ahead f us, i'm just hoping that by the time I ame finished with her, my engine will be having around 100k km on it :p
Wich makes me wonder about its life expectancy... Well, i can't say I didnt have fun doing it all so far tho :)

I will conclude with, C you around yall and feel free to comment
G.

No problem my friend, I 've installed cheap mirrors and levers from Ebay and I am very satisfied after almost two years, plus I don't have to worry about them being stolen or damaged. I also have experience with two slip-on exhausts and I can send you links for all the above to check them out.


As for tires, I always fit soft sports because of the slippery roads here but obviously you have different priorities so a rain tire sounds like the correct choice :)
 

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My 2002 cruiser with 30 horsepower has the original sprockets and the second O-Ring chain. It seems to have worked normally for the last 7,000 miles or so since I added the new chain, although I have not tested the top speed (not important to me). The old chain was getting uneven for stretch/wear, but it did not seem to change the sprocket teeth for the next chain. I have only adjusted the new chain once so far. It will get new sprockets for the third chain.


My 2008 ZZR600 with 90 horsepower has the original chain and sprockets, and I do plan to change them as a set, especially because I can see that the back sprocket teeth are starting to wear to a narrower point than stock.
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My 2002 cruiser with 30 horsepower has the original sprockets and the second O-Ring chain. It seems to have worked normally for the last 7,000 miles or so since I added the new chain, although I have not tested the top speed (not important to me). The old chain was getting uneven for stretch/wear, but it did not seem to change the sprocket teeth for the next chain. I have only adjusted the new chain once so far. It will get new sprockets for the third chain.


My 2008 ZZR600 with 90 horsepower has the original chain and sprockets, and I do plan to change them as a set, especially because I can see that the back sprocket teeth are starting to wear to a narrower point than stock.
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Yes, I can understand the logic behind that, it is an unwritten rule that you can skip timely maintenance work and keep some parts for more time when you are not asking too much from a motorcycle.

The difference between an ok working bike and a bike in tip top condition is pretty tangible when you get to experience it though, and it has a lot to do with the little things :)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yes, I can understand the logic behind that, it is an unwritten rule that you can skip timely maintenance work and keep some parts for more time when you are not asking too much from a motorcycle.

The difference between an ok working bike and a bike in tip top condition is pretty tangible when you get to experience it though, and it has a lot to do with the little things :)
hey,

I can concur to the little things and a tiptip condition prefered bike, specially when i use it every day, thats why I ame so vigorously updating my machine, altho i should have done my brakes first ... maybe :p
altho i can understand the principal of Mr Kentucky to, you wont see me ever do that, I have measured wear on both the inside and outside part of a mechanical drive, and its almost "tuned" into eachother, so switching between chains and stuff doesnt sound appealng to me :(
the speed part is a 25percent importance of the whole expercience involved with driving a motorcycle, specially nakeds... but thats my book, I'm sure yall read onother one :)
when there is space and i dont endanger no one but myself, i will let it rip...>:)
 

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altho i should have done my brakes first ... maybe :p
Since we have the same model year bike I must say that I saw greater improvement in braking after replacing the fork springs with progressive ones:

http://www.kawiforums.com/ninja-650r-er6/298402-wirth-progressive-front-fork-springs.html

Steel lines were not very impressive but still improved the last part of lever travel in terms of feel:

http://www.kawiforums.com/ninja-650r-er6/276905-brake-upgrade-discussion.html

And a good aftermarket shock, although expensive, completed the picture:

http://www.kawiforums.com/ninja-650r-er6/318810-yss-shock-absorber-impressions.html

I would suggest to you to keep the OEM exhaust since you do a lot of commuting and spend the $$$ on suspension and braking components where our bike is really lacking :wink2:
 
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