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I cleaned mine at my second oil change at 700 miles. (my first oil change was at 100 miles) There was tons of crap in it. looked like plastic mostly. left overs from assembly im sure. I think thats why they recommend taking it to the dealer to have the oil changed at 600 miles.
 

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Whether its syn, half syn, or conventional oil, you MUST use motorcycle oil. non-motorcycle oils have friction modifiers that mess with the clutch. also they dont handle the heat from 13k rpms as well.


when you do switch to syn oil, its not good to switch back to conventional oil.....EVER. this can cause o-rings to fail and cause oil leaks.
Anyone else agree with this? Everything I have read recommends Rotella Synthetic if you do change(I don't think it is motorcycle oil). Is there a special blend for motorcycles or is that just marketing?

I've never given much thought about when I do switch the effects of switching back. I would not think it would matter.
 

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I used full synthetic for years before there was motorcycle synthetic. I used Delvac Diesel in my Harleys, Suzukis, Honda, and Yamaha. I use Mobile 1 motorcyle oil now in my Kawi, Yamaha, and Honda.
 

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Uh Oh!!
I went of the ninja250.org website's write of the oil change procedure and it’s definitely different. My oil seemed to change okay but the oil change bolt is completely different from the one you have circled. http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Image:2Winterize.jpg I used the bolt they show in the above photo. Which would the one next to the oil filter with the blue dot on it in your photo. Did I totally botch this up, or does either or work?? I drained a good 2 quarts out of my engine and it’s been running great.
Weird!
:eek:
 

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I use Mobile 1 motorcyle oil now in my Kawi, Yamaha, and Honda.

+1 for Mobil 1 great stuff, been using it for the last 2k miles.

ferris said:
Uh Oh!!
I went of the ninja250.org website's write of the oil change procedure and it’s definitely different. My oil seemed to change okay but the oil change bolt is completely different from the one you have circled. http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Image:2Winterize.jpg I used the bolt they show in the above photo. Which would the one next to the oil filter with the blue dot on it in your photo. Did I totally botch this up, or does either or work?? I drained a good 2 quarts out of my engine and it’s been running great.
Weird!
That FAQ is for 07, the 08 is a little different, look at the owners manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Just thought I'd post a list of filters and part #'s that will work on our 08 bikes. (from ninja250.org)

Dr. Shorty, you may copy and paste them to the first post if you like.
  • Amsoil: SMF 101 (No longer available. Replaced by WIX 24941.)
  • CarQuest: CFI-89941
  • Emgo: 10-37500 (includes O-rings) 10-20300 (doesn't have O-rings)
  • Fram: CH6012
  • Hastings: LF571
  • Honda: 15410-426-010 or 15410-300-024
  • Kawasaki: 16099-003
  • K&N: KN-401
  • NAPA: PS4941 (formerly 4941)
  • Perf-Form: OF-0047 (formerly J-501)
  • Purolator: ML16812
  • STP: SMO-12 (Once readily available, now appears to have been discontinued.)
  • Triumph: 1210031
  • Vesrah: SF-4004
  • WIX: 24941
  • Yamaha: 36Y-13441-00
Thanks. Done.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Awesome, I'll try this tomorrow.
BTW I think the drain plug part number is 92066
Just looked it up. The drain-plug itself is 92066 but the washer that needs to be replaced is 92065. I have added the part number in the writeup.
 

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I've never given much thought about when I do switch the effects of switching back. I would not think it would matter.
conventional oil will attack natural rubber causing it to swell. most engines using conventional oil have synthetic rubber seals which resist the effects of conventional oil. syn oil attacks syn seals so engines made for use with syn oils use natural rubber seal. when you put syn oil in an engine with syn rubber seal, the rubber expands. thats not a problem, the problem is when you put conventional oil back in and the syn rubber seals shrink again. then you risk leaks. switching to syn oil is ok, switching back to conventional oil is not.
 

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no, i dont have specifics, My job is aircraft hydraulics. we use both syn and petrol based hydraulic fluids and they react the same way as syn and petrol based oils. we deal with these problems quite often in my line of work.

Ive never personally known of anyone thats switched back from syn to conventional oil in an engine and had problems, so I could be talking out my ass, but when I was an auto technition, I was always warned about this kind of thing. I worked for both Ford and Dodge back in the day
 

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Excellent thread, thanks for posting the oil change procedures and photo's. I use Mobil one synthetic automobile oil on my air cooled Moto Guzzi. Has 110,00 miles and narry a problem.
Bill N.
 

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Was just wondering....what is better: Castrol GTX or Amsoil? Or are they both pretty much the same? If you could also justify your answer, that would be appreciated. I'm talking regular oil, not synthetic. Thanks.
 
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