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Some pics of how I did it. This is where you can help. My bike has a front end change and most people just need a way to mount it to the stock setup. The standard er6n could do it on the standard handlebar clamp maybe?
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Some pics of how I did it. This is where you can help. My bike has a front end change and most people just need a way to mount it to the stock setup. The standard er6n could do it on the standard handlebar clamp maybe?
Alright Kool, once i 3D print my.headlight mount and maybe a windscreen then I'll start on the new gauge
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Some pics of how I did it. This is where you can help. My bike has a front end change and most people just need a way to mount it to the stock setup. The standard er6n could do it on the standard handlebar clamp maybe?
I ordered several male connectors that hopefully are the same as the stock gauge so i can leave the stock wiring harness alone. We will see if it's good in about a month.
 

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Anyone know the size of the stock snorkels? Gonna make a velocity stack
It's easy enough to pull it out from the front without removing anything. just go in, and pull in twisting motions. I'd be interested because removing the snorkels whilst sounded awesome, made the bike run pretty badly.
 

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So... Inverted fork swap, easiest way?

Heard about the z1000 upper and lower trees but don't know what year. And also calipers and use original wheels?
Sorry I missed this
Easiest swap that I know of is 2011 z1000 sx
The forks and wheel bolt straight up and has raised bars standard. You’ll need the z1000 calipers
I know because that was my first swap
If you need any details just reach out
 

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The volume and length of the stack is critical and it’s tuned to the standard bike for noise as well as air speed. I have no concept of the maths involved but I’d be interested to see how this works out

Good luck !!
This ^

Although generally longer stack = more bottom end, shorter stack = more top end, you can try shortening it bit by big to see the gains, a smooth surface and a smooth, trombone like curve outwards, those are critical for proper flow. Even if you don't want any velocity stacks, make sure you at least make those curved lips for them to get the flow into the box itself smooth as much as possible. You can spiralise the intake profile of a stack to make it "growl more" (true story it works 😂 😂 ) and it also help with flow, but if the stacks are too short then they'll just throw the air out to the sides instead of directing them down towards intakes, although that's not really an issue as long as air can get in the box. There IS proper maths involved but it's pretty much useless in the real world without CFD analysis and practical testing, so just try whatever feels right if you wanna play around with it, obviously these work best with an accompanied tune. It is still entirely possible to just lose power everywhere, but It wont be a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
This ^

Although generally longer stack = more bottom end, shorter stack = more top end, you can try shortening it bit by big to see the gains, a smooth surface and a smooth, trombone like curve outwards, those are critical for proper flow. Even if you don't want any velocity stacks, make sure you at least make those curved lips for them to get the flow into the box itself smooth as much as possible. You can spiralise the intake profile of a stack to make it "growl more" (true story it works 😂 😂 ) and it also help with flow, but if the stacks are too short then they'll just throw the air out to the sides instead of directing them down towards intakes, although that's not really an issue as long as air can get in the box. There IS proper maths involved but it's pretty much useless in the real world without CFD analysis and practical testing, so just try whatever feels right if you wanna play around with it, obviously these work best with an accompanied tune. It is still entirely possible to just lose power everywhere, but It wont be a lot.

You got any specs on them spirals?
Here's what I made up 75mm inlet going to 50mm at 75mm long (75mm is the stock snorkel length)
Printing with flexible resin.
I was thinking of going 60mm on the outlet but i need to add an AFR sensor first, and measure clearance. Wonder if i can design a ram air mount.... (And yeah i usually cruise going 90 and added 2 teeth on the rear sprocket)
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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
If i could make a ram air intake this would be the start of it. Unfortunately i don't have a garage to take apart the bike to get the radiator gap size and whatnot.

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
You got any specs on them spirals?
Here's what I made up 75mm inlet going to 50mm at 75mm long (75mm is the stock snorkel length)
Printing with flexible resin.
I was thinking of going 60mm on the outlet but i need to add an AFR sensor first, and measure clearance. Wonder if i can design a ram air mount.... (And yeah i usually cruise going 90 and added 2 teeth on the rear sprocket)
View attachment 140323
View attachment 140324
And here it is. Fits perfectly
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You got any specs on them spirals?
Here's what I made up 75mm inlet going to 50mm at 75mm long (75mm is the stock snorkel length)
Printing with flexible resin.
I was thinking of going 60mm on the outlet but i need to add an AFR sensor first, and measure clearance. Wonder if i can design a ram air mount.... (And yeah i usually cruise going 90 and added 2 teeth on the rear sprocket)
View attachment 140323
View attachment 140324
Sorry no spiral specs, but the tighter it coils the more it will throw air out to the side. I'd be interested in experiments. If you have AnSys or Solidworks they both have CFD utilities, you can use some simple maths for required airflow numbers at different RPMs
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
I made a coolant reservoir!
Made from a compressed air can, wrapped in matte black vinyl wrap.
If you notice on the top there is a notch, also on the other side. Those will be used to relieve pressure and for coolant overflow.

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