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Bogging Issue

I just bought a 2008 250r yesterday for my daughter. The bike is definitely "used", but only has 4,100 miles on it. I bought it from a lady who is the second owner. She had bought from a local shop where it was a trade in. Don't have a lot of history on the bike since the lady never put it on the road and it was sitting for about 8 months. I took a chance buying the bike hoping that the stall issue I'm having is easily fixed.

I understand that the bike takes a while to warm up, but even after a couple of minutes of idling, if I blip the throttle to bring up the RPM's so I can take off, it either bogs down or stalls. If I slowly bring the throttle up it will run fine once into 4-5k on the tachometer. Blip the throttle once in the high RPM's works fine. The bike also starts fairly hard as well.

I plan on changing the oil/filter, air filter and a fresh tank of gas. I'm only a backyard mechanic, so I might just bring it to a shop for the carbs to tuned if the fitler and gas don't bring some life to the bike.

Anything else I could check/do?
 

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"a couple of minutes" is not enough for these 250s sometimes. If I haven't ridden in a while, like a few weeks :(, it can take over 10 minutes to warm up to temp to actually take off and go. But if I ride more regularly it will warm up in less than 3 minutes.

Try starting with all the choke and just let it sit for a while, go inside, or if you have something to do by the bike, do that. Once the rpms jump up to 3k+ take down the choke some, not all (I have even let the engine sit at 3-4k rpm for a minute). See where the rpms rest, and keep gradually taking off choke until it is all the way off. Should be good to go by then. It might be annoying, but that might be how you have to do it for a couple of start-ups.

Rejetting may also help the case
 

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If it was sitting for 8 months, there's a good chance you need to clean out the carbs.
+1. And carbs aren't hard; they just have a lot of pieces. Take one side apart at a time. Then run seafoam through after you get it all together.
 

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Mine usually needs a minute or two at full choke, once it hits 3K+ RPM I drop it to about half. From there it is idling around 2-2.5K RPM and pull away taking it easy for the first minute or two. When I have a chance at the first light I turn off the choke and do a test rev and it is usually fine.
 

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I can't preach enough the benefits on the '08+ 250r's shimming the needles. Everyone I know who has the super long warm-up times and deals with bogging like that notices a total transformation after as little as one washer underneath the needles. It's not a "racing" modification or anything, but a tuning item to help the bike perform ideally.
 

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do this shimming the needle thing affect the gas mileage?

I usually have to let my ninja warm up for like 4-5mins
2-3 minutes is not enough if i haven't ride it for a couple of days.
 

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That's the thing about engines: No two are alike. If your bike doesn't take terribly long to warm up and has excellent mid-range power then yours might be close from the factory. Kurosaki had this with his 2008 250r. He shimmed his needles and it ran rich.

Technically it will affect your fuel economy a bit negatively on cruising. You might lose 1-2 MPG. If you only want to fix a bogging problem and excessive warm-up times and still want to run lean on part throttle cruises you can remedy that by adjusting your idle mixture screws.
 

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I have a 2010 250R that has a bad hesitation off idle after fully warmed up.
Does anyone has a fix for this?.

Did anyone try shimming the needles on this year?.

Thread Merged: Because this question comes up a LOT and your issue is not unique ;)
 

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Just to clarify... are you saying as the bike finally warms up the idle is off? or are you saying that after the engines warmed up, getting on the throttle causes the engine to hesitate and begin to choke?
 

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Just to clarify... are you saying as the bike finally warms up the idle is off? or are you saying that after the engines warmed up, getting on the throttle causes the engine to hesitate and begin to choke?

That's it..

Even when the bike is thoroughly warmed up.it will hesitate from a stop as if it's falling on it's face.and you have to feather the throttle to get going in first gear.
The dealer tried to sat "That's how this bike is",but if that's the case.I'm sure someone has a cure to adjust this thing so it acts normal.

I have a 30 year old CB900 that runs perfect,I can't believe Kawi can sell a bike that runs like this everytime from a stop.

I have no issues with tweaking it to get it to run smooth.

Do you think the needle shimming might help this 2010?

BTW:
The bike is bone stock.It's my GF's bike,she has owned a few bikes and knows how to ride.
 

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Thats how this bike is. Mine used to have hesitation at the worst time, like on turns when cars are flying at you. I fixed my by rejetting. Just by shimming the needles and adjusting the mixture screws made the bike a totally different monster. Since the jetting its never did it again and it warms up in a least a third of the time.
 

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Thats how this bike is. Mine used to have hesitation at the worst time, like on turns when cars are flying at you. I fixed my by rejetting. Just by shimming the needles and adjusting the mixture screws made the bike a totally different monster. Since the jetting its never did it again and it warms up in a least a third of the time.

By rejetting are you saying all you did was shim the needles and adjusted the idle screws (by removing the carbs n plugs over the adjusting screws?)
 

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I added a slip-on and put in pod filters since I was gonna take it apart. The bike is set up to be very very lean. If your just stock a shim and idle screws should be all you need. I would start with a half a turn more open on the mixtures.
 

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That is not how the bike is supposed to be. After warmed (about 10 minutes) the bike should start off just fine without hesitation. I tend to ride down my street with the choke on just to make sure that the engine is warmed.

When the bike is warm (after you've been riding it for a while) what does it idle at? If it's idling to low this could be to blame. I had the same issue and just played with the idle knob and got it idling at 1500rpm and runs like a charm now.
 

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Update!

I pulled the tupperware off to locate a coolant leak (I don't trust dealers).
I pressure tested the system and found two loose hose clamps.

I then pulled the seat/tank.I installed two 25mm washers under each needle and put the tank/seat back on and had my GF ride it.She knows the bike better than I.

She said the hesitation is gone now.She was happy.
I also raised the idle to 1500 rpm's as it was idiling a 750-850 rpm's and didn't sound as smooth as it does at 1500.

I had read that the 08's had plugs over the idle screws.Well the 2010 "does not".
So if she has any other issues I can tweak the idle screws and see if I can't dial this thing in to be perfect.

I want to THANK those of you who answered my questions in sorting out this bike.

She was ready to trade it in on a 2012 Honda 250 that is now injected.I'm glad my time and four washers solved her issues and saved her a bunch of bucks.
 

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Glad everything worked out for you. Just so you know I have a 2010 ninja too and mine did have plugs over the screws. If yours doesn't I would think some one all ready tinkered with it. Enjoy
 

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Glad everything worked out for you. Just so you know I have a 2010 ninja too and mine did have plugs over the screws. If yours doesn't I would think some one all ready tinkered with it. Enjoy
The bike was bought new.No one touched it but me.I had my GF take it out for a ride today.she put 250 miles on it and says it runs great now.
 

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Glad it's running good now. How difficult was it to shim the needles?

Also, after have ridden the cbr250 it's not up to par with the ninja 250r.
 
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