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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Do this at your own risk, I take no responsibility for what happens to you, thats YOURjob.

First ... why would you want to adapt a different shock? The standard one is less than rubbish.
The 2010 R1 shock is the same length as an ER650. It has low speed compression and high speed compression and rebound adjustment as well as hydraulic preload you can adjust with a screwdriver. This is a common mod on Versys 650’s but on ninjas and er6’s not so much. Its about $250 AU worth of gear on eBay. To get something to perform similar to this you have to pay Öhlins money.

Before anyone kicks off by saying engineering blah blah blah, You don't know what your doing Blah Blah Blah. Start an "Anti R1 shock thread" and we can discuss why you shouldn't do this in there.


The things you need to do to fit the shock are:-

Replace the top and bottom bushings with ones that can take a 12mm bolt.
Replace the spring with one appropriate for your bike and your weight
Revalve the shock for the new application some people don't but I would

The top bushing has two dust seals that you pick out first. You’ll be able to see the bearing and the inner bushing just falls out. Find a socket that fits inside the eye of the shock and squeeze in a vice till it pops out. You can see the two seals and the bearing in the photo below.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
The bottom bearing is MORE involved.
You can’t just push the lower bearing out in a press without damaging the shock. It’s a spherical or pillow ball bearing, pressed in and has two spring clips holding it in. Outside of those clips are the dust seals, outside of those are two steel top hat bushings that meet in the centre of the bearing

First get an old small flat blade screwdriver. In the centre of ID of the bush is a notch or groove. This is where the two top hat halves meet. This is hard because theres not much space to put any sort of force against the outer bushing. Just keep at it, it just take a bit of fiddling.Hammer against this notch moving around so you’re working evenly around the centre.
Eventually one of the top hats will come out. Once the first one comes out the second one is easier. Spin around and do the other one.
Then you’re faced with the dust seals. Use a sharp Screwdriver (not the one that it’s now blunt from hammering ? ) to pick out the two dust seals. This is also fiddly.
Then you’re faced with two spring clips that sit in grooves on the inside of the bore. They're tiny as is the groove they're in,
You need to pick these out with what ever you have. I found that sticking a sharp watchmakers screwdriver on the opposite side to the gap in the clip worked best. Once the clips are out you can press the old bearing out using a vice and sockets or as my dad suggested a punch and ****ing big hammer
Once the bottom bearing is out you’re gold! You can see the grooves for the spring clips in the second photo You can also see the order these are from outside to inside
The Lower bearing OD is almost exactly 1inch
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
The top bearing OD is 24mm and I bought a new one with 12mm ID and 24mm long to suit the ninja a while ago so I pressed that in using the same vice and socket technique I used to get the old ones out.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
The original r1 spring is taller and narrower than the eibach spring I bought
Eibach model number 600.225.1100. (I went on racetech’s site to estimate the correct spring rate for me(1100lbs))
This is ok as I’ll need two preload collars to keep the spring centred as its got a larger OD and the collars are roughly 5mm thick anyway.

More to come.......
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So the EIbach spring is a little larger in diameter than the stock R1. Ive done some research and found some collars the are from racetech and they are part SBSC5855. Ordered 2 obviously, one for each end.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just wanted to update - This wasnt as straightforward for me as it had been for others (or perhaps im a little more pedantic. My wiring loom ran awfully close to the shock towards the top end and i had to move that out of the way.
I also had to relocate the rear brake fluid reservoir. The shock is in and functioning very well. Ill dial it in again and post up some pics soon.
It did require 3 stainless steel washers to space it away from the top shock mount. as others have mentioned the rebound adjuster fouls if you dont.
 
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