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So I bout my 2012 650 from a friend of mine for a killer price . The bike ride fine for about 2 weeks until I didn’t ride it for two days straight . It began to not start and just click at the relay when I press the ignition. It started after putting the battery on a tender for a little but no matter what once I turned it off it wouldn’t start without a tender and then it didn’t stArt at all and just clicking . Shorting the relay didn’t work . Nothing worked at all . I discovered a parasitic draw at the display. I’ve changed the staring motor and relay and it started up once but won’t start again , just clicking and the occasional sound of the brand new starting motor attempting to turn . Same issue shorted the relay and nothing . I’m at a total loss right now and need some guidance of where to go from here . When I attempt to start the battery instantly drops to 10V unless I tender it and still no start . Very very frustrated and will greatly appreciate any guidance to help me get riding once again

edit: I forgot to add that this bike will indeed push start or at least it did. I haven’t tried to push start it since I’ve changed the starting motor and relay.
 

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Have you checked the battery? It might just be too far gone and can't hold a charge, I'd suggest starting there, and if the bike starts up, check charging voltage. Parasitic draw at the display is for the internal clock and it's extremely minimal.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Have you checked the battery? It might just be too far gone and can't hold a charge, I'd suggest starting there, and if the bike starts up, check charging voltage. Parasitic draw at the display is for the internal clock and it's extremely minimal.
So I have had the battery load tested but I’m thinking I’m just gonna buy a new battery anyways and see how it does . I measured the draw and it’s almost an amp when the bike is off . I’m not sure if it’s high or not .
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Have you checked the battery? It might just be too far gone and can't hold a charge, I'd suggest starting there, and if the bike starts up, check charging voltage. Parasitic draw at the display is for the internal clock and it's extremely minimal.
I forgot to add the times where it did start I was seeing 13.8V while running
 

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So I have had the battery load tested but I’m thinking I’m just gonna buy a new battery anyways and see how it does . I measured the draw and it’s almost an amp when the bike is off . I’m not sure if it’s high or not .
That is actually very high, 1 amp at 12V is 12W, about the same that the city lights would draw and can flatten the battery in a day, I suggest you find the exact source of that
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That is actually very high, 1 amp at 12V is 12W, about the same that the city lights would draw and can flatten the battery in a day, I suggest you find the exact source of that
I plan on eventually opening up the display to see if anything is shorted out inside. I traced it to the display while pulling fuses and the draw went away when I pulled the display fuse . Put the fuse back in and unplugged the display and it went away. I’m not sure if the display is a vital part of starting but I think something is shorted on the inside and needs to be fixed . Will update when I get a new battery and get it charged up to try it out .
 

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Discussion Starter #7
That is actually very high, 1 amp at 12V is 12W, about the same that the city lights would draw and can flatten the battery in a day, I suggest you find the exact source of that
Sorry for replying to you so much , you are just the only person I got an answer from. I appreciate all your help. One more thing I’ve noticed is that I’ll keep the meter leads on the battery terminal . When I turn the key the battery will sometimes pop up to 13V but most times it does not and I’m not sure what normal is on this one
 

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Sorry for replying to you so much , you are just the only person I got an answer from. I appreciate all your help. One more thing I’ve noticed is that I’ll keep the meter leads on the battery terminal . When I turn the key the battery will sometimes pop up to 13V but most times it does not and I’m not sure what normal is on this one
I don't think that's anything to worry about, the meter might be shorted but it is in no way needed for the bike to run, that said a lot of connections run through it, i'd start by checking the indicator LEDs try by getting a couple pieces of wire and creating a bridge from between the meter's connectors, 1 wire to 12V (pin 6), 1 wire to Ground (pin 15), might need 1 to pin 8 aswell but i'm not sure, try without it first, and then take the 3rd wire and bridge each pin 1 by 1 until you find the one which causes the parasitic draw.
2012er6fmeter.png
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I don't think that's anything to worry about, the meter might be shorted but it is in no way needed for the bike to run, that said a lot of connections run through it, i'd start by checking the indicator LEDs try by getting a couple pieces of wire and creating a bridge from between the meter's connectors, 1 wire to 12V (pin 6), 1 wire to Ground (pin 15), might need 1 to pin 8 aswell but i'm not sure, try without it first, and then take the 3rd wire and bridge each pin 1 by 1 until you find the one which causes the parasitic draw. View attachment 138185
Thanks for the diagram it really helps! I’ll check that next . Just an update I followed a video to bench test the starting components using this video here
So my original staring motored spins just fine directly hooked up to the battery and it also works and spins when voltage is pushed through my relay. I’m even more confused than before . It spins just fine when I’m a bench but not when it’s on the bike maybe the starting motor isn’t connected right ? I’m getting more concerned with every test I do . Next step or thing I’m looking at is seized engine or the starter isn’t seated right . Yikes
 

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Put your bike in a higher gear when it's on a paddock stand and try to rotate the rear wheel as it would normally, if the engine spins over freely that's not your issue, but if the bike normally runs I doubt the engine is seized, I'd try to inspect the starter pinion gear, maybe it's not meshing properly, you can try lining it up properly by spinning the rear wheel whilst it's in gear, If it's spins fine outside the engine it should be okay, however there are a couple things that can cut ignition, maybe the switches in these following items are partially touching/not disengaging, etc, most of them you could try to just disconnect to test or bridge:
Kickstand switch,
Neutral Switch,
Clutch switch,

Check engine/frame grounds too. That said I truly think your issue is the parasitic draw killing your battery not the starter system in any way.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Put your bike in a higher gear when it's on a paddock stand and try to rotate the rear wheel as it would normally, if the engine spins over freely that's not your issue, but if the bike normally runs I doubt the engine is seized, I'd try to inspect the starter pinion gear, maybe it's not meshing properly, you can try lining it up properly by spinning the rear wheel whilst it's in gear, If it's spins fine outside the engine it should be okay, however there are a couple things that can cut ignition, maybe the switches in these following items are partially touching/not disengaging, etc, most of them you could try to just disconnect to test or bridge:
Kickstand switch,
Neutral Switch,
Clutch switch,

Check engine/frame grounds too. That said I truly think your issue is the parasitic draw killing your battery not the starter system in any way.
I’ll get the draw figured out tonight and get back to you I’ll also try to line up the starter better too. I really really appreciate the help . I was ready to give up. Let’s hope I figure this thing out without needing a mechanic
 

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So I bout my 2012 650 from a friend of mine for a killer price . The bike ride fine for about 2 weeks until I didn’t ride it for two days straight . It began to not start and just click at the relay when I press the ignition. It started after putting the battery on a tender for a little but no matter what once I turned it off it wouldn’t start without a tender and then it didn’t stArt at all and just clicking . Shorting the relay didn’t work . Nothing worked at all . I discovered a parasitic draw at the display. I’ve changed the staring motor and relay and it started up once but won’t start again , just clicking and the occasional sound of the brand new starting motor attempting to turn . Same issue shorted the relay and nothing . I’m at a total loss right now and need some guidance of where to go from here . When I attempt to start the battery instantly drops to 10V unless I tender it and still no start . Very very frustrated and will greatly appreciate any guidance to help me get riding once again

edit: I forgot to add that this bike will indeed push start or at least it did. I haven’t tried to push start it since I’ve changed the starting motor and relay.
This is 100% a bad battery. I had the same bike and issue. About $80 from autozone
 

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Discussion Starter #13
This is 100% a bad battery. I had the same bike and issue. About $80 from autozone
I’m just going to bite the bullet and go buy a new battery . I did mis wire jumper cables a few weeks ago . The crazy thing is autozone load tested this battery and said it was Fine but an instant dip in voltage and lack of amps to start . Even when bench testing the starting motor it slowed down very very quickly . I’m sorry for all the messages guys I’m just going to go back to basics and get a battery and see if that works
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I don't think that's anything to worry about, the meter might be shorted but it is in no way needed for the bike to run, that said a lot of connections run through it, i'd start by checking the indicator LEDs try by getting a couple pieces of wire and creating a bridge from between the meter's connectors, 1 wire to 12V (pin 6), 1 wire to Ground (pin 15), might need 1 to pin 8 aswell but i'm not sure, try without it first, and then take the 3rd wire and bridge each pin 1 by 1 until you find the one which causes the parasitic draw. View attachment 138185
Ok here we go! New battery is being activated and I’m going to find this parasitic draw
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I feel soooo dumb . I tried to replace cheaper parts before just getting a new battery and I should have switched out the battery from the very very beginning . Also I’m sure the parasitic draw I found was found when the lights were actually on . Nevertheless I’ve eliminated the problem. This bike was a wreck salvage I bought from a friend and they made a terrible attempt to just epoxy the plastics back together . This repair I was doing made me notice the potential to pull off a sick looking naked bike. So now the fun begins guys! I really appreciate your help. I can finally get back on the road finally 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
 

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138189
My naked girl been my dragon for a decade. Almost got hit again today by a newb driver but she always gets me out of a bag situation. Love you shadow for not getting me killed for the dozen time.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So far this is how far I have gotten! Planning on buying some parts off amazon . Handle bars , light , aluminum coolant reservoir and possibly the display . Going to be fun playing with the wires and tucking them away . Going to get a full exhaust too as soon as I can afford it
138193
 

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So far this is how far I have gotten! Planning on buying some parts off amazon . Handle bars , light , aluminum coolant reservoir and possibly the display . Going to be fun playing with the wires and tucking them away . Going to get a full exhaust too as soon as I can afford it
View attachment 138193
Fun fun fun........ Building your own custom naked bike. I took a shortcut wish I had done it too my old 250r. That's going to be a special bike.
 
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