[Wabbit1961]

Thank you! What do you think of the TST integrated taillight? Any issues? Is easy to install and program?

No issues. Very easy install. Plug and play. No cutting wires. You do have to buy the turn signal relay and replace the stock one but I did it by hand without removing the left fairing. It's easy to feel for by putting your arm under the front and feel the side of the left fairing up near the top. They give you all the instructions with clear picture and even have both installs on YouTube. TST Industries.

 

[Wabbit1961]

The programming of the tail light is done on the back of the unit. You'll see. The flasher relay is already set to the correct flash rate but is also adjustable. The tail tidy is separate and you can choose a fixed or adjustable angle license plate mount. I got the adjustable one.

 

[Wabbit1961]

Nice! I've never seen those bags. I have SW Motech. They were super expensive, but really nice bags.

The bag mounts for the C-Bow system uses the two bolts on each side under the tail. Super easy install. There's about 6 different bag styles but they only go up to 20-22 liter each side. The have a hard case set but they looked bulky to me. And not really any bigger. I can leave my bags open and stuff them because there's a waterproof bag inside each one that is larger than the bag itself. It folds over and velcros shut like a wet bag.

 

[ninja dman]

The programming of the tail light is done on the back of the unit. You'll see. The flasher relay is already set to the correct flash rate but is also adjustable. The tail tidy is separate and you can choose a fixed or adjustable angle license plate mount. I got the adjustable one.

Thank you very much Wabbit!! You can beat that clean look!!

 

[Wabbit1961]

Check out the YouTube videos. They show the complete install. They have a Ninja 650 all tricked out with their stuff and a video on everything they do. They also offer LED front turn signals but I hate taking the fairings off. I'm lazy that way. But they're video makes it look easy and the turn signals are really sharp.

You have the 2021. I like those graphics. Especially the white down low.

 

[Z650Spirit]

I thought of that, but I just don't have the time nor the inclination to re-wire the old turn signals. My bike is my primary method of transportation. She did start up after work. I was really surprised because the voltage meter read 11.9V and I wasn't feeling confident about it. Something did happen, though. It seemed like the left button on my TFT screen was stuck. This might be the cause of my problems. Stay tuned! @Antares, fingers crossed.

Check out the voltage regulator connector. Could be that it is not firmly engaged. That would eventually cause the battery to receive charging randomly. I would suggest removing the connector from the regulator, inspecting the pins searching for anything abnormal to the eye, and firmly engaging it back.

 

[Antares]

We did install a USB plug into the accessory port in the dash. It has a voltage meter built in. Was at 13.7V when I arrived at work this am. Was at 11.9V at lunch time. Looks like we might be doing a manual start after work today. I have not added any mods like heated grips, but I have replaced my tail lights and turn signals with a tail tidy with sequential LED. That was in May of this year. I suppose that would be reason enough for them to not honor my warranty. I'll know tomorrow and will definitely update the forum when I do.

Pull the charger off the battery I'd bet that's your issue, parasitic draw, I had a USB port too that was killing my batteries, was fine when I rode the ER every day, but in the winter it killed 1 battery anyway (it was 8 years old anyway so didn't think much of it) but then it killed the new battery by the end of the next year when I stopped using the ER every day in favour of my new bike. I bought a lithium battery for the ER originally so that completely discharging it wont be the end but then I found out it's the same size and spec as the one in my XR so I just put the lithium in there and the XR's old battery in the ER, I've also gone and pulled the fuse from my USB charger and lo and behold battery still holding 12.2V after sitting for 3 months. For me keeping the fuse in the spare slot of the fuse box is an acceptable solution, I can just pop it in if I need the charger, for you it might make sense to wire in a manual switch further up stream.

 

[KimsHaven]

Pull the charger off the battery I'd bet that's your issue, parasitic draw, I had a USB port too that was killing my batteries, was fine when I rode the ER every day, but in the winter it killed 1 battery anyway (it was 8 years old anyway so didn't think much of it) but then it killed the new battery by the end of the next year when I stopped using the ER every day in favour of my new bike. I bought a lithium battery for the ER originally so that completely discharging it wont be the end but then I found out it's the same size and spec as the one in my XR so I just put the lithium in there and the XR's old battery in the ER, I've also gone and pulled the fuse from my USB charger and lo and behold battery still holding 12.2V after sitting for 3 months. For me keeping the fuse in the spare slot of the fuse box is an acceptable solution, I can just pop it in if I need the charger, for you it might make sense to wire in a manual switch further up stream.

Thanks for the tip. I do plan on rewiring the USB because I do not like the constant draw, even though the voltage indicator is convenient. I installed that outlet 5 months ago and my parking garage is nearly the same temperature all year round, so I can't assume that it's a "cold weather" drain. It is odd that the bike would not start after sitting for only a couple of days. Also, if the battery did not have enough charge to start the bike, why didn't the clock reset? Now my bike has been sitting at the Kawasaki service department (for 2 days) and they have not been able to recreate any of the weirdness that I have been experiencing. They said they would perform a load test on the battery today. I'm very anxious to find out the result.

 

[Antares]

Thanks for the tip. I do plan on rewiring the USB because I do not like the constant draw, even though the voltage indicator is convenient. I installed that outlet 5 months ago and my parking garage is nearly the same temperature all year round, so I can't assume that it's a "cold weather" drain. It is odd that the bike would not start after sitting for only a couple of days. Also, if the battery did not have enough charge to start the bike, why didn't the clock reset? Now my bike has been sitting at the Kawasaki service department (for 2 days) and they have not been able to recreate any of the weirdness that I have been experiencing. They said they would perform a load test on the battery today. I'm very anxious to find out the result.

I used to park the ER6 outside in the winter and it'd seriously flatten the old Lead acid battery, that's what first got it, when I had to jump start the bloody thing for 3 days in a row I had enough, the AGM battery I replaced it with died whilst in a brick walled garage and it never got too cold in there.

"Also, if the battery did not have enough charge to start the bike, why didn't the clock reset? "

Re this, actually the way it starts is at first it'll struggle to start, when you press the starter, it will turn it over then start this clicking noise, that's the first sign battery is low, 2nd stage is when it starts with the clicking, 3rd stage the clocks still come on but the moment you ask it to deliver charge to the starter all you get again is clicking but this time the clocks also just go off, this is when the clock gets reset. You probably haven't got to this stage yet. Or maybe there is a bigger capacitor in the newer ninja's screen that may take longer to discharge and lose time and trip info since it's digital (or is that for the 2020 model onwards? who knows), either way it might just need more time without power to lose that info.

11.9 V is perfectly rescuable, a good charge without any drainage and I'd bet that battery will be back to normal voltages, these ebay USB chargers with the voltage readouts especially definitely drain enough to take that much out of the battery in a day, easily. It's just what it is. Either way don't immediately go buying a battery when the techs will inevitably come back with those "dead battery" load test results.

That "dead" lead acid battery i mentioned actually managed to keep a charge of 11.3V almost 2 years after I removed it from the bike, and it was the first battery I tried when the AGM died, and it did work but then I left the bike for another couple weeks and the drain killed that battery too for good.

 

[Reigny]

Just found this forum by googling same issue. I have a 2021 Ninja 650 with 5500 miles. My clock has randomly reset twice now. Bike runs perfectly otherwise. I’ll give my dealer a call. Seems like it’s not just me…

 

[Mindcrime79]

2021 model here. No dirty/loose battery connections. Battery always on Battery Tender. Aftermarket LED tail lights/LED underbody lights. Wrong clock time was random but been ok lately.

 

[Trout]

Anyone else experience this or have a solution? Bike runs normal. Clock just keeps resetting randomly.

Anyone else experience this or have a solution? Bike runs normal. Clock just keeps resetting randomly.

This is a little late but I have similar problem with my 2020 Ninja 650. I bought it new towards the end of 2020. With less than 1000km/600miles on it I started it at the gas station and the clock reset to 1:00pm. No other issue, no problem with the odometer or anything else and the bike started first shot like it always had. On the 1000km/600mile warranty inspection I raised the issue and the Kawi dealer was able to replicate the problem. They took off the entire front fairing and checked all wiring, the solenoid, battery connections and starter button and all seemed perfect. Then sure enough one random day a couple of weeks later it did it again upon starting, usually when the bike was hot. Over the last couple of years it would happen every once in a while. However, last year it evolved into more of a starting issue whereby engaging the starter button there would just be a few clicking sounds and nothing else. Then hitting it again it would start first shot. Battery charge was always perfect as is voltage going into the battery. Over the winter this year I took apart the throttle assembly and gently filed the starter button contact points. Tried it and it started first shot, but again the clock reset to 1:00pm. I will see this riding season if that fixed the starter issue but it definitely didn't fix the clock resetting upon starting. So if anyone has any solutions to this I would be very interested.

 

[Mindcrime79]

My only guess would be low voltage from the battery. A new battery may fix this.

 

[sextaafondo]

If you hear a clicking sound when you push the starter button, then it is not that button: it is probably a bad starter solenoid. The clicking sound you hear is indeed the starter solenoid trying to engage the starter motor. Even though the solenoid itself is working, its main contacts probably have an issue and are not able to bridge the starter motor with the battery. When the battery is low, instead of a click you hear a PRRRRRR while you have the starter button depressed.

 

[Trout]

Thanks Pablo, because of the rarity, randomness and intermittent nature of the odd start/clock reset I just started there as that was the quickest and easiest thing to eliminate. However, it hasn't fixed it. The battery with a charge of 12.96 refused to start it yesterday again. Just the clicking for as long as the starter button is pushed. I fiddled with a cable connection just past the starter relay and then tried it again and it started first shot. I waited another half hour and again just loud clicks. So that didn't fix it either. The clicks sound like they are coming from the starter motor, it makes the same sound when the juice to the starter motor isn't enough. My wife also has a 2020 Ninja 650, which doesn't have this problem. I'm going to swap the batteries today just to rule out any battery oddity. My sense is that the starter motor circuit when activated is losing some of the current like a loss somewhere. Thanks again for your response.

Kevin

 

[sextaafondo]

Kevin, if you have a multimeter/voltmeter on hand, try to read the voltage value at the starter motor terminal. When you push the starter button you should get anything from 10V or higher depending on battery condition and how much sag the starter motor is causing. If you press the starter button and just hear a click and you don´t read any voltage at the battery post, then the starter solenoid is at fault. If you read full battery voltage but the starter motor is not turning, then the starter motor is damaged. Also, verify the thick black wire at the negative battery terminal. That is basically the return for the starter motor. Verify that wire fixing point on the engine case and on the battery side.

 

[Trout]

Hi Pablo, here is the strange thing. My battery voltage at rest (before trickle charge) is 12.63. On my wife's Ninja 650 (same model year 2020) it's 12.62. Her bike starts first shot no problems. So I swapped the batteries. Now my bike starts first shot and hers is just like mine now, no start just what sounds like starter motor clicking(typical low voltage battery problem). So it is clearly the battery. But what I don't understand is if the 2 batteries are reading the same voltage before a starting attempt, why does my battery not do the job? I also checked both batteries after turning on the key and waiting for fuel pump and both batteries register the same draw and subsequent voltage available prior to start attempt. Strange eh?

Kevin

 

[sextaafondo]

Kevin, I´ve seen that happen! One of the bridges inside the battery is just barely making contact. When there is no load you can read normal voltage but as soon as the load is high enough the weak point cannot cope with it. That should be reflected on the voltmeter. I suggest you install a lithium battery. They are far more reliable and powerful. You will notice that on the first push of the starter. No modifications to the electric system are required.

 

[Trout]

Kevin, I´ve seen that happen! One of the bridges inside the battery is just barely making contact. When there is no load you can read normal voltage but as soon as the load is high enough the weak point cannot cope with it. That should be reflected on the voltmeter. I suggest you install a lithium battery. They are far more reliable and powerful. You will notice that on the first push of the starter. No modifications to the electric system are required.

Pablo, you're exactly right! Turns out there are bad cells in the battery. So while the voltage readings are normal the amps were insufficient. That explains why even when the bike was new, the clock would sometimes reset during a start as there was a power surge. Now that problem has gone from the occasional irritating power surge(causing clock to reset) to the occasional not starting situation, which is now almost every second time. The lithium replacement sounds like the way to go but I was getting conflicting warnings about using battery tenders on them(a necessary thing here in the northern climate). So I just replaced it with a similar 'BS Battery SLA AGM' which seems to have good reviews and was over 3x cheaper than the lithium option.

Thanks again for your good advice!

Kevin

 

[sextaafondo]

With a lithium battery, you just need a compatible trickle charger, Kevin, like the one below, or any other similar unit. Lithium batteries are sooo much better in terms of power and weight saving that once you´ve gone that way you wouldn´t go back. Glad the new battery fixed the problem on your bike!

Deltran Battery Tender Lithium Gel Motorcycle Charger 1.25A 6V 12V 734357220025 | eBay