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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Right then, im hoping that this post works as its my first one with images:D ive used a lot of info off this site and want to start showing people how much use it has been...ive done quite a lot over the last year so watch this space!

I found this on a zx9r.net a while ago (rep to Tafffy who seemed to be the originator...check out DIY Ignition advancer .... Part 2.. - ZX9/ZX10 Club ) and the idea behind it seemed sound so I thought id give it a go... all you need is a dremmel type tool, a single M5x12 allen/hex head bolt and a bit of patience....

before I forget, if you have any problems with this idea or you dont agree with it please reply with sound reasoning rather than attitude...manners costs nothing:rantt:

all you need to do is take off the R/H fairing and remove your rotor cover which is shown below:


unbolt the 6 bolts and remove cover to expose the rotor (a bit of oil will come out as well...dont worry about it, carefully mop up any more in there:


I then measured the distance from the centre of the rotor to the pick up (35.5mm) and used trigonometry to work out the distance I would need to move the pick up to achieve a 4 degree advancement (Tan4x35.5=2.48mm)


I also measured the gap between the rotor and the pick up using a feeler guage so I had no problems when I refitted it (0.30mm)

before I unbolted the rotor, I felt it would be a good idea to block any passages into the engine as I was bound to drop something in there:eek:


I also traced the cables from the pick up to the oil pressure switch on the front of the engine (Unbolt after prising back the rubber boot) as well as disconnected the connector and engine temp switch once I had removed the petrol tank.

I then unbolted the pick up and removed it. I also covered it in tape as it is magnetic and would pick up metal filings (tape makes them easier to remove)


First step is to grind/cut off the protruding lugs that stick out of the bolt holes to help locate the fixings. I used a bench grinder (in stages to reduce heat build up) but a manual file/dremmel will do the job


I then elongated the holes by 2.5mm using a dremmel (one needs to be slotted as there is only 2.5mm of material to grind!). I also roughed up the rear side with the dremmel to help hold the pick up in place when I bolted it back down


I found it was easier to use the bolt below on the upper mounting as without this you would not be able to achieve the full 2.5mm movement as the original fixing would need room for a socket over it (i used
M5 X 12 STAINLESS A2 BUTTON DOME ALLEN HEAD BOLTS X 10 | eBay)

I then cleaned and remounted the pick up, pushed it up 2.5mm and ensured that the rotor to pick up gap was at 0.30mm and then reconnected the temp switch, connector and oil temp switch. I used threadlock to hold it in place and retightened the fixing bolts to the required 6Nm

Most manuals receommend the replacement of the pick up cover seal but as long as you give it a clean up it is reusable (I ususally use a bit of sealant for peace of mind)

Remove the tissue you used to stop the bolts entering the engine, Refit the cover and 6 bolts (tighten to 12Nm with threadlock on the top one), refit the petrol tank and fire her up!:D

I hadnt used the bike for a few weeks but it felt more responsive and pulled better....I know the butt dyno isnt conclusive proof but I dont have a proper dyno set up in my garage :rolleyes:
 

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Good mod, although you need to be very precise with measurements to get the correct advance. Your average Joe can't measure beyond a millimeter. At 3.5mm you're at 5 degs, and 4mm corresponds to 6+. Nonetheless, thanks for sharing.

For future reference, avoid using the words dremel or anything that physically alters the bike if you have <1K posts, unless you're prepared to get rundown by NASA scientists that we have on here. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks, il remember the dremmell advice! :D

I use a vernier for the measurements.... ever since I stripped and rebuild the bike ive become a sad torque wrench & vernier wielding weirdo:eek:

The weather in the UK may suck but our fuel is very good...the standard is 95 Ron with up to 99 Ron available pretty much everywhere as well... gives a bit more room for going over the 4 degree advance:D
 

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have seen a mod like this on hear but they cut the rotor and not the pick up.. good write up too mate..
 

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That Fighter Guy
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Good on you for using Loc-tite on the pick up mounting bolts. In my opinion it's not a bad idea to use it on most bolts you remove from a motorcycle, but you definitely don't want that pick up to move even a little.

Almost funny to see someone put some good old trig to use it real-world applications (outside of a regular job I mean). I sat through high school geometry, trig, and calculous asking myself "when in the hell am I ever going to use this? Ugh."
 
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