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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys, I'm brand new on here. I just bought a '96 6r (from one of the members here actually). It's got a few issues, but I'm very happy with the deal I got on it. Anyway the main problem I want to get taken care of right now is that it won't start (go figure that this is on the top of my list ;) ).

Here is a little bit of the history that I know of it. The bike was laid down some time ago...suffered some body damage but still seemed to run fine. I guess it was used every so often since then, but never used as a roadbike because of the damage. They went to take it out a couple weeks ago (if I remember right it had been a while), and they had trouble keeping the bike running. They noticed that if they kept the starter button held in, the bike would stay running...as soon as they would let it go, the bike would pop a couple of times and stall. I guess they checked just a few things, but not sure of the details. They said they didn't spend a whole lot of time on it because there wasn't really a reason to.

I went down to look at/pick up the bike on Saturday and we couldn't get it started at all. I beleive the battery is the original one and it's VERY dead, he was turning it over off of a charger. The starter wasn't turning over incredibly fast, but it sounded like it was plenty to get it started. They sprayed some starting fluid into the carbs trying to get it to fire and nothing. There were a few strange things going on too. With the key on the headlight stays off (not sure if it's supposed to or not?), when pressing the starter button the light stays off also. If you turn on the turn signal with the key on it does nothing, however if you use the turn signal with the starter button pressed in it will work. Tailight comes on as normal. Fuses are all good. We were looking a thing that appeared to be a fuel pump (sorry I'm not extremely technical), and we disconnected the out line and turned the bike over and no gas would come out. We took both lines off of the pump and it didn't seem like it was working then at first either. However after turning the bike over for a little while we started to hear the pump make noise. During that time we had pulled one of the spark plugs (the one on the far left), and when hooked up and grounded to the frame you would see a small spark every so often (seemed very random, probably sparked 1-3 seconds apart). We put in a new plug and it was slightly better, but basically the same results. Throughout this time we were also trying to check all the wires and connections the best that we could.

It was getting late and we had a long drive so we worked out a deal on the bike as it sits. I now have it at home, but I forgot a short fuel line down there so I have to grab another one before I can get it hooked back up properly. I'm going to do that today.

Sorry for the long winded post...I may have left a few things out, so if you need more details please let me know. Thanks for any help/ideas you can give.

-Josh
 

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Josh,
I also have a 96'. The headlight does not come on until the bike starts up and you let off the starter button. You should test the battery and see if it is putting out at least 12.7 volts, if not get a new one and work from there. I have a full maintnenace manual for the 96' and will thumb through it later after work. A general tune up, carb cleaning and carb synch also would not hurt. With snow forcast late this week, we have all winter to do general maintenance! David:)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Originally posted by DavidE
Josh,
I also have a 96'. The headlight does not come on until the bike starts up and you let off the starter button. You should test the battery and see if it is putting out at least 12.7 volts, if not get a new one and work from there. I have a full maintnenace manual for the 96' and will thumb through it later after work. A general tune up, carb cleaning and carb synch also would not hurt. With snow forcast late this week, we have all winter to do general maintenance! David:)
Wow, another Vermont'er...no kidding. Ugh, don't remind me about winter...haha.

Anyway, thanks man, really appreciate it. My Uncle suggested checking the same thing and it would be great if that is all that it was. I know for sure the battery is very dead....it won't even power on the gauge lights. The owners battery charger seemed plenty strong though, but never know. I tried starting off of the charger we have at home and it wouldn't even begin to turn over.

Thanks again man.

-Josh
 

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O.K., I would start with a new battery. I hope you are looking at this as a project and arent thinking you will commuting on this tomarrow. Then I would try to clean out the fuel system, clean the carbs, check all fuel lines, and maybe replace the little filter in the tank. A carb synch is not a bad idea but if it were me, I would leave that till the end as more of a tuning thing. How was the plug color? I would replace um anyway. This sounds silly, but how is the oil level? an oil change couldnt hurt. also check the right side hand control switches just to be sure that the kill switch was not damaged in the crash and is somehow shorting and killing ignition. I hope you have a service manual, if not, get one with the battery and charger. I would check all fuses and all electrical lines associated with ignition.
Well, have fun and dont get frustrated. Just think that everything you change out or fix, even if it does not get it to start, is one less thing you will have to worry about when its done.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Update....I'm not sure if it's because we were using a different charger to start it or what, but if fired up no problem tonight. The problem now is back to the original one that the guys were telling me about....need to keep the starter button held in or else it won't stay running. It will sit there and idle nice, but if you let it go it dies.

Turn signals worked with just the key on also...they weren't the other night.

Thanks for any help.

-Josh
 

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I have a '95. We need to get a list together of all the guy on here that have '95-'97s.

Something to check, there is an ignition fuse. It is in the junction box under the seat with all the other fuses except the main fuse. It should be 10 A. I'm not sure but I think the ignition is only routed through this fuse when the starter button is not engaged. Blown fuse will mean no fire after starter button is released.
 

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Josh,
If its not the fuse swjohnsey mentioned and you have not gotten your hands on a manual yet, I can scan the electrical diagrams and send them to you tomorrow (scanner here at work, manual at home). Let me know if you are interested.
David
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Guys...thanks again.

As Catatonic said, we checked all of the fuses (including that one) the other night visually. I will check it with a multimeter tonight just to be sure.

David, if that isn't too much trouble that would be awesome, but don't go out of your way or anything. Otherwise is there any place online that would have such diagrams?

Yup, it's quite a relief that it started up. I'm not sure if he had his charger in "turbo mode" ;) or what, but the bike was turning over SOOOOOOO much quicker than it was the other night. Also the turn signals would blink without the starter button pressed, which it wouldn't before.

Thanks again guys, really appreciate it.

-Josh
 

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Good to hear you got it running. On the subject of fuel pumps, has anyone else with a '95-'97 gone through a few fuel pumps in their bike? Mine only seem to last about 60,00k's.
 

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Oops, that's 60,000k's.[:I]
 

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I'm curious, how didn't your fuel pump go out. Was it someting gradual or a catastropic failure. I have about 25,000 miles (41,000 km) on my '95.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Originally posted by swjohnsey
I'm curious, how didn't your fuel pump go out. Was it someting gradual or a catastropic failure. I have about 25,000 miles (41,000 km) on my '95.
Wow, how much maintenance have you guys done once you get up in that range of mileage? This one that I just picked up from Catatonic's buddy is reading 5,000.

My buddies '95 6r has like 13,000 on it and I thought that was considered high.

-Josh
 

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Josh, you have many miles to go once your ignition issues are straightened out! I have 24,000 miles on my bike and it still runs strong. I am following regularly scheduled maintenance procedures. I did shim the needles this summer which made a big difference in performance. Plan on doing a valve adjustment this winter. I do not trust that the previous owner did one at 17,000 miles, I bought the bike with 18,000 miles last September. I have had no fuel pump issues (keeping my fingers crossed). I'll grab my manual tonight and bring it to work tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Originally posted by DavidE
Josh, you have many miles to go once your ignition issues are straightened out! I have 24,000 miles on my bike and it still runs strong. I am following regularly scheduled maintenance procedures. I did shim the needles this summer which made a big difference in performance. Plan on doing a valve adjustment this winter. I do not trust that the previous owner did one at 17,000 miles, I bought the bike with 18,000 miles last September. I have had no fuel pump issues (keeping my fingers crossed). I'll grab my manual tonight and bring it to work tomorrow.
Great, thank you man...we'll have to hook up and ride for sure...haha, kinda strange talking about it with the weather we are getting today, but it will end someday.

In the meantime....here is a pic of the bike incase anybody wanted to see....this is the good side....

 

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What happens with my fuel pumps is that the contacts on the solenoid wear down and eventually the solenoid sticks in one position, so the pump stops. Before it actually stops, the fuel pump just runs slower and slower over a few thousand km until it gets to the point where it can't deliver enough fuel to keep the engine running constantly. It is a fairly gradual thing but unless you know about this, you won't realise what is happening because it feels like the bike is going onto reserve, but it keeps doing it every 3km/2miles or so. VERY frustrating. It will feed fuel through by gravity (if there's enough fuel in the tank) and you can keep riding but you have to basically idle along and use no more than about 3,000 rev's and no throttle. Or you can ride normally and have the bike run out of fuel every 3 min and have to wait 5 or 10 minutes for the fuel to drain down into the carbs.
I've now done 180,000km's with my bike and have had it serviced every 5,000km. The only things replaced in the engine have been the rocker cover gasket (too many services, it got worn out [:I]) and the alternator stator. It still runs great and as far as I can tell, it doesn't use any oil.
I did have to replace the frame though, it developed stress cracks in 3 places [:0]. It's a problem with the '95 models only. Anyone with one should have a look at the right hand frame spar just in front of the top engine mount, that's where they crack first. You can see the spot by looking up at the frame through the fairing vent.
 

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I thought there was something wrong with the way that fairing was sitting...
 

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Josh,
We had 18 inches of snow up at Bolton Valley last night. With all the ruckus this morning (snow removal, starting cars, snow blower) I forgot the manual. Didn't get to work til 11:00. Anyway, I did breeze the wiring diagram and I think it will help you track down your problem. The starter button is directly wired to three different components. Monday I will scan the diagram(s) and list of electrical specifications so you can test the output of each component. The manual does say to make sure you have a fully operational battery hooked up (output of 12.6V or more) for the entire system to work properly. We should get together and ride in the spring! My bike is plain kawi green with out any decals, polished frame, carbon fiber extras and carbon fiber DD can. Looks pretty sharp for the deal I got.
 
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