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on my old zx9r, i used synthetic oil the entire time i had it. the last 4 or so oil changes was all amsoil.

so far on the new 6, i've just had the first oil change and they used the kawi-lube (or whatever they call it) that's just dino oil. when i made a remark that i planned on switching to amsoil after the 2nd or so oil change, the service dude looked at me and said that he didn't recommend it because the new sportbikes' clutches don't like it.

anyone running 10w-40 amsoil with no issues? bottom line: whether it's the best oil or not is debatable, but i was very pleased with the results in the past.

unless i can identify a real issue with running synthetic, i'll prolly swap to that in the spring before my first track day of the season. last thing i want is to have problems at a track day.

thoughts?


s3aturnr
 

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There is always some idiot with a tinfoil hat out there that thinks synth is bad stuff. I haven't gotten around to to putting it in mine yet (me poor)..... I want to switch to Royal Purple...
 

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Both Royal Purple and Amsoil are good oils. but the service manager is correct.. Modern sport bikes dont need to be switched to synthetic unless they are being raced or have 20K miles on the clock. and I tried 4 different full synthetics this year and the same problem was found in all 4..they FRY the clutches quickly. Finally switched to Silkolene partial synthetic and its been awesome.
AND LOL AT CALLING KAWI LUBE DINO OIL.. Thae stuff has always been great oil. It used to be manufactured by motul and was slightly better than the Motul regular oil at a cheaper price and now its made by Panolin which is one of the top oils in Europe. So if your riding on the street, Id recommend running the kawi oil for awhile
 

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Modern sport bikes dont need to be switched to synthetic unless they are being raced or have 20K miles on the clock.
?

Age has no bearing on whether or not you should run synthetic, and if anything, your logic about the bikes being modern is backwards. Since modern bikes rev higher and higher, they will benefit more from better lubrication, and synthetics lubricate better than non-synthetics.


AND LOL AT CALLING KAWI LUBE DINO OIL.. Thae stuff has always been great oil. It used to be manufactured by motul and was slightly better than the Motul regular oil at a cheaper price and now its made by Panolin which is one of the top oils in Europe.
Why is that funny? It IS dino oil, doesn't matter who makes it or how good it may be.
 

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worry about friction modifiers...aka energy conserving
 

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There is always some idiot with a tinfoil hat out there that thinks synth is bad stuff. I haven't gotten around to to putting it in mine yet (me poor)..... I want to switch to Royal Purple...
im one of those guys.

i feel no need to run synth oil. i DID try royal purple, for a little while. bad things happened... was it the oils fault.. :dunno:

but, i switched back to kawi oil. its good, and cheap, and it works. assuming its changed regularly, "dino" oil will protect just as good as synth....as far as im concerned. im certain my bike will outlast me....

on my old zx9r, i used synthetic oil the entire time i had it. the last 4 or so oil changes was all amsoil.

so far on the new 6, i've just had the first oil change and they used the kawi-lube (or whatever they call it) that's just dino oil. when i made a remark that i planned on switching to amsoil after the 2nd or so oil change, the service dude looked at me and said that he didn't recommend it because the new sportbikes' clutches don't like it.

anyone running 10w-40 amsoil with no issues? bottom line: whether it's the best oil or not is debatable, but i was very pleased with the results in the past.

unless i can identify a real issue with running synthetic, i'll prolly swap to that in the spring before my first track day of the season. last thing i want is to have problems at a track day.

thoughts?


s3aturnr
i was told the same thing...by the guy that rebuilt my trans..on my NEW bike. except he said the trans/gears/dogs, nothing about the clutch....take it for what you will.
 

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i run mobil 1's 4t "racing" oil in my 9. it seems to do well i am running a barnett clutch and springs in my bike.. don't know if that makes a diff. rainking is correct. you wan't to stay away from any oil that has friction modifiers in it. these modifiers are intended to reduce the friction coefficient in the oil. so it stands to reason that our wet clutches will suffer due to the lack of friction on the disc's. this increases slip and will of course reduce clutch slip. the mobil 1 i run has no friction modifiers in it...
 

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I tried 4 different full synthetics this year and the same problem was found in all 4..they FRY the clutches quickly.
Woah, I did not know that! I was gonna switch to full synthetics soon. Why does it fry the clutches?
And is it recommended to do another oil change at 1000 miles even though a first service was done at 600 miles? The mechanic recommended it because he said that a 1000 miles is were the break-in period ends and it would get rid of any additional shavings from the engine. TIA:)
 

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Woah, I did not know that! I was gonna switch to full synthetics soon. Why does it fry the clutches?
And is it recommended to do another oil change at 1000 miles even though a first service was done at 600 miles? The mechanic recommended it because he said that a 1000 miles is were the break-in period ends and it would get rid of any additional shavings from the engine. TIA:)
it's not the fact that it's synthetic, that causes the toasted clutches... synthetic or ( dino oil) lol can cause this problem. both can be found with friction modifiers in them... as long as you stay away from any oil with friction modifiers in it you should be fine... friction modifiers increase clutch slippage and this is where the problem occurs.
 
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