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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I've been using the Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5w40 in my 2007 ZZR600. Well it was time for an oil change so I picked up a jug. But when I brought it home, I noticed it was in a slightly differant bottle than the last Rotella T I bought. So I went online and saw that this Rotella was 'new and improved'. It was 'Shell Rotella® T Synthetic with API CJ -4 Technology'. It has API SM cerification. My owners manual says I should use an API SH, or SJ, or SL. Can I still use the new Rotella T?
 

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problem is theyre both blue, its a new version thats sold alongside the older jug but its updated to meet API SM standards, if im not mistaken you can also find energy conserving written somewhere on it....im no expert but i think you got the version that will make your clutch slip and you need to find the old style jug that is "only" SL...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It was in the blue jug. And there was no mention of energy conserving anywhere. It was SM rated, and from what I could find out about SM is that it supercedes all other S ratings (ie SH, and SL). So I'm pretty confidant it should be OK. I looked everywhere today and I couldn't find the old Rotella anywhere, so I guess we're stuck with the new stuff.
 

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It was in the blue jug. And there was no mention of energy conserving anywhere. It was SM rated, and from what I could find out about SM is that it supercedes all other S ratings (ie SH, and SL). So I'm pretty confidant it should be OK. I looked everywhere today and I couldn't find the old Rotella anywhere, so I guess we're stuck with the new stuff.
+1

yes...any "new" rating must be compatible with the earlier ones.
 

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Alright but dont forget 2 things:

a) new rating is compatible with the old ones true but, these are not ratings for motorcycles and rotella IS advertised as for diesel....

b) Even on the most recent kawasaki models, theres probably a good reason why the manufacturers decided to not include the API SM rating (which was instroduced in 2004) in the list...it goes up till SL and even then anything higher than SG is recommended to have a JASO MA rating to go with it.

If theres no energy conserving or friction modifying additives it should be fine, if it works then its good to know the new rotella is just fine for bikes.
 

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The US beign so into cars, the JASO rating is rarely going to be on a bottle, unless it is marketed as a motorcycle blend.

Bear in mind, the API rating circle on the back is what the oil blend is "Designed to meet". Actually getting API certification, JASO or whatever is expensive, and the manufactures rarely do it - usually stopping at saying "designed to meet". I doubt Shell USA cares about JASO when the real money is in diesel truck fleets and passenger cars....though it appears the new blends lower ash content would meet JASO.

Since Shell doesn't have a motorcycle oil to sell you, I trust their answer on their website:
>>>>>>>>>>>
ROTELLA T does not contain friction modifiers that are added to many passenger-car-only-oils, and it does not comply with all requirements of ILSAC GF-1, GF-2, GF-3 and GF-4 (the ILSAC oil specifications are often recommended by many gasoline passenger car engine manufacturers). That can be good for motorcycle/ATV use. Friction modifiers can upset wet clutch operation. And the ILSAC requirements limit phosphorus content.

Diesel engines and other engines with highly loaded valve trains, as well as transmissions, need extra (compared to passenger car engines) extreme pressure wear protection, which is provided by an additive that contains phosphorus.

One negative might be where the engine manufacturer recommends oil meeting JASO requirements. Part of the JASO requirement limits ash content to 1.2%.

Oil ash contributes to combustion chamber and spark plug deposits.

The ash content of CI-4 PLUS spec-ed ROTELLA T Synthetic SAE 5W-40 is 1.47%. However, the CJ-4 spec-ed Shell ROTELLA T with Triple Protection is now at 1.0% ash.
 

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meh, i used to buy the best oil i could get my hands on... full synthetic motorcycle specific blah blah blah... stuff costs me 15 bucks a liter! BUT then in the bike i was using it in my clutch took a crap from all the additives and now for my ninja i just go to kawasaki and buy there brand mineral oil... no guesswork, no reading labels... says kawasaki right on it and ive never had a problem with protection. the only thing i would use synthetic in is a vehicle, only dino oil for my bikes from now on!
 
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