I havent had the cover off mine yet. I'd start there and see how much space it available there. I cant imagine that one tooth would make it too much bigger, then again, I dont know what the clearance is. You could probably run it without that cover. I've got a friend with an 1198 that runs it without one. You're looking for more top end?
I did +1 on the front. The speedo is accurate now as compared to the over 6% error it had stock. You won't see a difference in RPM vs. indicated speed but the speedo reading will be correct and not higher than actual.
The bike feels a little sluggish now compared to before but the throttle is also less sensitive so it's easier to maintain a steady speed and the front end doesn't pop up so easily in the lower gears.
I posted this on another board but I'll repost it here.
Here's a few tips for anyone that does the sprocket change -
Unlike the instructions in the FSM, you don't need to remove the entire lower portion of the fairing. Pull the one small and two large shoulder bolts that secure the left side fairing piece and pull the two quick rivets on the lower front portion right behind the front wheel. Then pull the left fairing piece out slightly and you can remove the 3 Phillips screws that hold it to the flat black leading edge piece. The rearmost screw is the only one that's hard to get to but you can get a stubby Phillips in to remove it. They're fast lead screws made for plastic so they come right out.
Also unlike the FSM states, there's no need to remove the outer cover or speed sensor. Once you remove the four 6mm bolts that secure the inner and outer cover assembly and get it free, tie the assembly up to the fairing mounting bracket with a cable tie. It's out of the way and you can easily get to the sprocket.
Make sure you have a good pneumatic impact wrench and a good 27mm 6 point deep well socket. I used a Snap-On socket and it worked, but the nut is slightly undersize and none too hard. The sucker was tight, and the nut has some pretty good mars in it now where the socket finally bit in. I tried my old Rockwell 1/2" drive air wrench and the nut laughed at it.
My good Chicago Pneumatic 1/2" drive wrench buzzed it right off.
If you somehow screw the nut up and don't get it off there might be a bailout. Farther down from the 27mm portion of the nut is another hex portion that's 32mm. Actually it's closer to 1.25" since it's so poorly machined.
That might save you if you screw up the 27mm portion. Thankfully I didn't have to try that.
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