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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everybody. With the amazing help you all have given me, I replaced the OEM CCT with an APE CCT. It rid my bike of all the noise and it ran great and quite.... for about 300 miles and then the noise began to creep back. It got pretty bad so i readjusted the CCT and same thing. No noise for about 400 miles or so and now its back. I only have about a half an inch left of adjustment. Should I be looking to get a new cam chain? Also, is there a way to look at the chain and guides without dropping the motor. I basically just want to check to see if the guide that the cct is pushing on is worn or broken. The bike is 98 zx6r G1 with 25 k ish. I would not think the chain is worn at this low milage and thats why I am thinking its the guide. Thoughts?
 

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sounds like guide wear to me....
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the response locknload! Yeah that is what i was hoping/thinking. Any idea of how easy it is to replace the guide? +1 btw.
 

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not sure about your bike, but it's pretty straightforward on most...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Do you have to drop the motor or spilt the case? I have searched google and the Kawi service manual for this bike with no luck on replacing the guide/s. Only actual chain replacement.
 

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if it's like most, i think it (CCT slider) can be done through the valve cover.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks so much everybody. I am going to look at it tonight and I will update tomorrow. Thanks again everybody for all of your help. Does anyone know of a how to somewhere by any chance? If not I think I can wing it. Thanks.
 

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how tight did you make it? maybe you tightened it too much and therefore stretching the chain
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I did it tight enough that it still had a little click because i don't mind a little noise as long as i don't risk stretching the chain. I am pretty sure it was not too tight because it still clicked a little around 4-5 k RPM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
so i took the side cover off. Nothing. Looks like a piece of sound foam. I guess Kawasaki knows about their little click problem. I took the gas tank and air filter off. It looks like I can get to the valve cover bolts fairly easily but I don't think I am going to be able to lift it off and do anything without the frame getting in the way. Any suggestions? I am thinking it is a little scary for my hobby mechanical skills. Should I just take it to a mechanic. I am broke and trying to do this own my on. Should I just go for it and try? Thanks.
 

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On my 98 I had to take the valve cover out the front as I couldn't find a way to tip it out....ie: drop the radiator out of the way. My 2001 and 02 I could take it out the top

At 25,000 miles, your guides and chain should not be worn out. You need only to finger tighten the tensioner, then back it off a fuzz.

Kawi has never had a quiet valvetrain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
so i took off a bottom cover and could see and unbolt the guide. here is a pic imgur: the simple image sharer is it possible to remove that plate so that I can slide the guide out? I can unbolt the guide and see it but I can't remove it past this round plate. I didn't mess with it anymore because i think this would mess with timing and what not correct? I feel like it is so close and i could snag it out of there but not without screwing something up. Anybody else ever able to replace a guide from the bottom? Thanks. I guess if this idea doesnt pan out I gotta just swallow some fear and tear it down from the top and remove the radiator and what not. Thanks everybody. Oh and the plate I am talking about is the round plate in the pic with the bolt in the center. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
hey jbreit thanks for the info. +1. I don't mind noise as long as I know that nothing is going to blow up. I am worried with the clacking that it is going to jump timing. How do I know when too much noise is too much? Thanks.
 

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After my valve shim job, I too have witnessed a louder click than normal. I'm running OEM tensioner, 5 clicks out. Will try to readjust. God forbid you from taking off the entire top end... it's not fun. You'll know how fun it is just taking off the sparkies :p And if you do end up taken the chain off, make sure you have a torque wrench ready. 10Nm for the 26 bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yeah I think I will just take it in to the shop for a guide replacement in the near future. I have a little adjustment still and will probably just max it out first. Get my valves adjusted and guides replaced at the same time. I think I am fine for now though.
 

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So why is it you are using a manualy adjustable timming chain tentioner?
Most likely the same reason everyone else has one, the original one failed or was weak, and he got tired of messing with it, and bought a quality made, fail proof design. Thats why i have one, and wouldn't go back, keeps the engine a bit quieter, and some peace of mind that you won't ever have it fail.

Ben
 

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Why would you mess with the tentioner? Its hydraulicaly actuated and backed up with a spring and ratcheting backstop preventing the plunger from being colapsed to far. Also how do you tell if its weak? I am only asking because replacing it with a manualy adjustible one just seams odd.
 

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Simply put-the hydraulic tensioner didn't take up the slack properly and tends to fail.
 
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