[Reizvoll88]

So the other day i took apart my bike to clean the carbs, put new plugs and cleaned the gas tank. when i took the fairing off i saw some one had clipped the original harness for the blinkers and were directly connected instead with crimp caps. well after all the cleaning and redoing the crimps (that i know are done right i do stereo installs for a living and crimp shit all day) and trying to start the bike it hesitated a bit then fired right up. After a few runs the bike died. and would not start the lights were dim. took the battery out recharged and put back in, same thing after a while. pulled the batter out and found out all the cells were almost compltely dry. filled with new acid charged again and could ride longer but still dies. i charged the battery completely and took it to get tested at two auto parts stores and both said the battery was good but i dont know if that was cause it was completely charged before i took it in. any advice on what anywould would think it is please speak i will take any and all suggestions. thanks in advance.

 

[Tenquo]

Whenever we get a battery thats dry we add distilled water ("battery" water)....you got an acid solution in your battery, unless it was poured out or spilled battery levels drop via evaporation and in that case its only the water content that is missing from your battery, adding more pre-mixed acid solution for your battery increases the concentration enormously and can do more damage than good.

We test batteries often but theres alot that seem ok at first but we got some that loose their charge in no time or charge poorly, also it depends on the type of charger you got, most cant tell you that the battery charges right up like a 3ah battery but the label on the battery reads 12...

if you did add more acid to the battery and there was no sign of spillage im afraid the battery might be ruined.....heres two tests i recommend....

Get a voltmeter, preferably one that is either analogue with a needle or has a minimum maximum function, you need to see how far the voltage drops when you push the start button, if the voltage drops to the single digits even for a milisecond the battery needs replacing....

Second test, do this even if test 1 fails, check your bike is charging ok, check the voltage when reving the engine, when reving the voltage should rise quite a bit, most healthy electrical systems give in the 14 volt range, dunno what kawasaki's specification for your bike is from the top of my head are but in general if the voltage doesnt rise when you rev from idle or if youre getting less than 13 volts no matter how you rev then you got a problem, also if the voltage goes up into the 15 or 16 volt range then it would explain the battery being dry however i doubt this otherwise youd notice other weird stuff going on...

 

[kwakbiker]

More than likely the regulator rectifier could be shot

 

[whitehendrix]

30.7A at 6000rpm at 14.4VDC is the alternator rating..

i'm not 100% sure what the AC rating (pre regulator/rectifier), but its typically about twice the DC output or more.. so, i'd look at the stator making 48-60VAC from phase to phase (being that the stator winding is 3 phase wye) and about 20-40VAC from any phase to ground...

now, when i say stator, i'm referring to the winding in the alternator case.. stator coming partially from the word "stationary" winding.. lol (don't wanna confuse anyone..)

uh.. chances are, if you didn't kill a good battery, then you just have a charging system issue.. depending on the year of your bike, it's either belt or chain drive for the alternator.. if it's belt driven (pre '96 engines i think.. i KNOW on the late 80's bikes) i'd look at if the belt's snapped..

good luck!