Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I've been tinkering with my idle lately(07). I had it up to 2k rpm, but I thought it was a little high while riding. Have it at 1.5 now. Is there an ideal range to have it at?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,288 Posts
The book says 1350 rpm. Much higher and you overheat in traffic and lose engine braking. Much lower and you tend to stall out when filtering through heavily congested traffic. Between about 1100 and 1500 is manageable.

Set it when the bike is thoroughly warmed up after a ride.

Rob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
347 Posts
Bumping an old thread since creating a new one isn't that worth it.
2008 650r
I idle(after a minute or 2) at ~800 RPM, if I adjusted to this idle speed for "take off" from a stop, it is OK that low? It bogs a little bit of course if I don't give it enough throttle but that is just me fine tuning my skills since I'm total about 10 hours on this bike.
Especially in Chicago summers being warmer and all, it should keep heat down while sitting in traffic correct?
Once it begins to cool off maybe 70s and below I can raise it to 1000-1300? I read the manual, I just don't understand the 1300RPM recommendation.
Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Bumping an old thread since creating a new one isn't that worth it.
2008 650r
I idle(after a minute or 2) at ~800 RPM, if I adjusted to this idle speed for "take off" from a stop, it is OK that low? It bogs a little bit of course if I don't give it enough throttle but that is just me fine tuning my skills since I'm total about 10 hours on this bike.
Especially in Chicago summers being warmer and all, it should keep heat down while sitting in traffic correct?
Once it begins to cool off maybe 70s and below I can raise it to 1000-1300? I read the manual, I just don't understand the 1300RPM recommendation.
Thanks!

:headscratch:

The whole point of an idle is that you don't have to give it throttle to keep the engine running.

The whole point of the radiator fan is to prevent overheating when stationary. I suspect the difference of 500rpm on the idle I think is going to be pretty much negligible to the engine temperature.

The smart people at Kawasaki decided an idle of 1300 rpm worked and it certainly works for me in the tropics of Thailand. Certainly the designers will have considered a wide range of tolerances and I'm sure the summer heat of Chicago is well inside of that.

Given your inexperience, why don't you just follow what the manual says?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
835 Posts
Bumping an old thread since creating a new one isn't that worth it.
2008 650r
I idle(after a minute or 2) at ~800 RPM, if I adjusted to this idle speed for "take off" from a stop, it is OK that low? It bogs a little bit of course if I don't give it enough throttle but that is just me fine tuning my skills since I'm total about 10 hours on this bike.
Especially in Chicago summers being warmer and all, it should keep heat down while sitting in traffic correct?
Once it begins to cool off maybe 70s and below I can raise it to 1000-1300? I read the manual, I just don't understand the 1300RPM recommendation.
Thanks!
Set your idle to manufacturers spec, fine tune your riding not your idle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
347 Posts
I don't have to give it any throttle to keep it running at all. I do trust the engineers at Kawasaki of course. I guess I was more wondering what would the reason for the number recommended.
I'll be adjusting mine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,288 Posts
But set it for a fully hot engine - set it after about a 5 mile ride. Cold idle has a fast idle - up to about 1800 - 2000 rpm - after engine start that pre-heats the exhaust cat, then it slows after about 2 minutes. It will then be a touch lower than the normal hot idle and pick up as the engine warms.

Once hot, set to about 1300 and it'll stay whenever the motor is up to temperature. The fan will look after the engine temperature. As water pump speed is dependent on engine revs your cooling system won't be particularly efficient if the revs are too low.

Rob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
347 Posts
As water pump speed is dependent on engine revs your cooling system won't be particularly efficient if the revs are too low.

Rob
I read about the after a ride procedure, so that's covered.
The water pump thing seems to be helping me with my question, RPM = heat but also more water liquid movement.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
347 Posts
Brought it up to ~1,100 today(one needle space past the white hash for 1,000) and it does help a lot for starting from stops, probably bump a bit more per manual.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
I asked the question at a Kawasaki dealership yesterday as mine is the 2010 model with a digital tach, mechanic there says they always advance it until the 5th bar is flashing then dial it back in small increments until the 5th stops flashing and 4 bars are solid, according to them this is 1,250rpm and is fine for the bike, set mine as they have said and its good, not to revvy and not laboured at all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
175 Posts
~850rpm due to bored out throttle bodes and a pretty open gp pipe it loves that deep throttle at low rpm's
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
347 Posts
~850rpm due to bored out throttle bodes and a pretty open gp pipe it loves that deep throttle at low rpm's
YEa, I was "killing" it too much for that low, I do like the low sound, even when I roll off I like that rumble.
You have the Jardine pipe? Been wanting a GP style one, that's the only one I can find.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top