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Hey mates,

First off: I wanted to thank all of you out there for helping me with lots of problems in the past... the collective electrical knowledge about my bike that I've gained at this site have helped out so much with my old zx-7r.

That said: I've got a new problem. The bike sat for about a year after my wife and I witnessed a bad wreck involving another sports bike... neither of us had the taste for riding for a long time after that. Anyway, when I finally got back on the horse I notice that the bike (obviously) has a very hard time starting up.

With limited knowledge in the carb cleaning department I just started taking the thing apart... drained the gas, cleaned the tank, replaced the fuel filter, cleaned the petcock, did a basic carb cleaning by flushing out the bowls and around the butterfly valves... nothing too deep though, also ran about 2 gallons of fresh gas through with some STP fuel system cleaner (thanks for the advice, btw).

I know I need to do a sync and a thorough cleaning of the jets, but given that there was very little evidence of varnish in the rest of the carb parts... I skipped all this (since I don't really know how to do it - any guides/tutorials you can suggest, btw?).

So, all that said here's my problem: the bike will not run without the choke (it did last season, so this concerns me)... also... twisting the throttle a LITTLE makes the engine die... this is magnified when the engine is under load (in gear) making it near impossible to get the bike moving... however, twisting the throttle a lot (bringing the bike to 4000 rpm +) and it works okay... in addition to all this the bike pops after a big rev (sounds like a small backfire)... and certainly doesn't run smooth under constant throttle even at higher rpms (it seems to pulse). Also, sometimes after a failed start (happens often when cold) there is a clicking (sometimes fast sometimes slow) that seems to be coming from the fuel pump (but I can't pinpoint it for certain).

My thoughts... could this be an issue with the low vs high speed circuits? (i.e. an issue with the enricher solenoid valve or the accelerator pump? - not that I know where or what those are... but I have the shop manual.) Or instead, does this sound like a simple fuel pump issue to you guys?

Anything you can tell me will help... I do all the work on the bike that I can... this way I give my wife less ammunition for the "just sell the f-ing thing" argument... so think as long as you need and speak slowly... I'd really like to avoid bring the bike to a pro, lately I like tinkering on it more than riding it!

Cheers,
-Hightop
 

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(edit) sorry, i didnt realize you have an oldschool 7 untill after i posted...anyways, it should still help any p model owners...sorry my manual cant help your problem- id suggest pulling the carbs and stripping completely down, chem dip for a day or so, blow out with compressed air and you should be good to go. (end edit)

there is an idle jet in the bottom of each carb- it has a crimped on cover from the factory. if you use a small drill bit and a screw-but being very gentle, the screw is just barely beneath the cap and brass can be damaged easily. use a screw in the hole and wiggle it out ...the problem with using a self tap is the drill bit end of the self tap is too long and the threads of the screw wont reach before the tip hits the adjusting screw- hope that doesnt sound too confusing. now, pull out the needles and soak some chemtool into it- blow it out with compressed air...also, pipe cleaners can get into some crevaces if the solvent doesnt cut it.

also note, that the idle needles have a spring, a washer and a flat o-ring...if one falls out and you lose it-your screwed. the order goes, oring-washer-spring-and needle...the adjustment is (when you screw the jet all the way in-WITHOUT forcing it) then 1-3/4 turns out is factory spec. try and use a ratchet screw driver because its easier to tell the 3/4 turn-its just a more acurate way of doing the job

 
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