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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys, I hope someone can help me out.

I've been battling this problem for almost 3 years with no progress and I'm tired of dealing with it. My bike will not rev past 8000 rpm. Period. It doesn't matter what gear, but when I get close to WOT near 7500~8000 rpm, the bike acts like it has hit the rev limiter and becomes completely unresponsive to throttle inputs. Once it falls to about 6500 rpm, the bike bursts back to life and then dies again near 8000. It's like riding a bucking horse.

So here's what I have done to battle the situation:
replaced plugs
replaced ECU
replaced throttle body
cleared tank vent line
new battery (2 years ago)
new fuel pump
replaced fuel line

What I have installed:
Power commander, pipe
dual H4 headlight conversion

At part throttle below 8000, the bike runs strong. Sometimes, the bike manages to break through 8000 but at some point before redline, the bike dies and I'm left coasting until the revs fall below 7000 again.

Has anyone else had this problem? There are a few threads on the forum with similar problems, but their solutions have not worked for me. I don't get any FI lights and no backfires or sputters. The bike shuts off until it gets into the lower revs.

Any one have a rectifier or a stator go out? Does that show symptoms like this?

Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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The Indifference Engine
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Well, I'd be checking the wiring harness myself.

If it were the stator or rectifier the battery would not be charging and it'd run till the battery was dead.
 

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have you pulled the power commander off to see how it runs without it? maybe a bad unit or bad map?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I put some more tension on the kickstand spring and tightened the switch so it won't move when cruising the highways. I could try cutting the wires and splicing them together to see if that makes a difference....
 

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is there anything on these bikes comparable to a mass airflow meter or map sensor? mine went in my car and it threw the car into limp mode and wouldn't let it rev past 2500 rpm. ...just throwing out ideas.
 

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Has the cam chain tensioner been replaced? One of the morons I went to school with at MMI replaced his cam chain tensioner, but didn't back it out first, just installed it. Bike ran like a champ to 8K, wouldn't rev past that.

I hope that's not the case, he had to replace everything having to do with the cam chain.
 

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I put some more tension on the kickstand spring and tightened the switch so it won't move when cruising the highways. I could try cutting the wires and splicing them together to see if that makes a difference....
Try unplugging and just jumping the sensor

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using Motorcycle.com App
 

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Discussion Starter #15
bleedingreen511, you are the winner!

I unplugged the side stand switch and jumped the plug. So far, the bike has not shown any symptoms of the stalling after a good thrashing. Sounds like this is the culprit I've been chasing down for nearly 3 years. This was the only part that I had not checked. It's nowhere in the repair manual to check this as a potential problem!!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Wrider, the cam chain tensioner has never been replaced. it's still the factory original. Thanks for the idea, though.
 

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bleedingreen511, you are the winner!

I unplugged the side stand switch and jumped the plug. So far, the bike has not shown any symptoms of the stalling after a good thrashing. Sounds like this is the culprit I've been chasing down for nearly 3 years. This was the only part that I had not checked. It's nowhere in the repair manual to check this as a potential problem!!
Hahaha awesome man same thing happened to my 10 it was so frustrating glad I could help

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Omg I woulda burned that bike in frustration way before now or taken it to a proper mechanic long ago. 'Grats on getting it fixed though.

Sent from my DROIDX using Motorcycle.com App
 

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"It's like riding a bucking horse." Actually the side stand switch is usually the first and cheapest option to check on these bikes cause it's free. Just cut the wires from the switch and join the two wires together, so that the switch is not in the equation when troubleshooting. Even I was surprised when you stated you replaced the ECU & fuel pump and were still having these "bucking horse" symptoms. I don't really care for my side-stand switch so I just bypassed the switch. Now I just need to pick up a fuel pump. ECU out of equation I have two and I just swapped them out with the same problem.I will keep everyone updated once I get and install that fuel pump. (04 Kawi 636).
 

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I admire your patience: 3 years. I just started having this problem and it's been less than 3 months and I have been on these forums like a crackhead looking for solutions and I want it solved before summer. Hopefully a new fuel pump should do the trick. Everything else on the bike I have checked including that retarded kickstand switch that I disconnected.
 
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