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Just to throw it out there, I dont know if it will help but my bike did the same thing when I took the fuel tank off and when I replaced it i twisted the fuel lines up so it would'nt get enough fuel at hi rpms and it would cut out.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Yeah Tricky, I thought that the fuel line had been kinked, so I replaced it with regular fuel line hose and clamps. Although it works just fine, it wasn't the root of the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
Coding, the fuel pump was the first thing I thought went wrong. I rebuilt mine, cleaned it, even modified it with a walboro 255 thinking that it was fuel starved at high rpm (overkill, but it sounded awesome when it primed), but the problem persisted. I was going down the list of problems outlined in the service manual and besides, I like to wrench my bike. In the process of figuring out the side stand problem during the past 3 years, I gotten to know so much about my bike and bikes in general. It was more of a learning project after a while.
 

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Coding, the fuel pump was the first thing I thought went wrong. I rebuilt mine, cleaned it, even modified it with a walboro 255 thinking that it was fuel starved at high rpm (overkill, but it sounded awesome when it primed), but the problem persisted. I was going down the list of problems outlined in the service manual and besides, I like to wrench my bike. In the process of figuring out the side stand problem during the past 3 years, I gotten to know so much about my bike and bikes in general. It was more of a learning project after a while.
Yeah, I enjoy the learning part of it too, and solving problems is fun.
I just replaced my fuel pump, cause the one I had on it was thrashed.

Now she red-lines, you should give me some pointers on how you rebuilt the fuel pump. Cause I have the old one out and that sounds like that would be fun just to fix it up and have it back to working condition.

Every single bike regardless of brand has always been a learning session, and it's really fun cause you get to know you bike intimately, every time you fix something on it.
 

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I know exactly what this is !! One of two, or both ATMOSPHEREIC PREASURE SENSORS !!!! I can explain if you want more info
Naaah. Im betting its the kickstand switch. Lmfao.

Sent from my DROIDX using Motorcycle.com App
 

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my bike wouldnt rev past 6k. doesnt trip the codes cause it's not a COMPLETE OPEN OR SHORT. THE COMPUTER THINKS THE BIKE IS AT AN ELEVATION OUTSIDE THE SPEC OF THE MAP.
KICKSTAND SWITCH IS EASILY CHECKED, JUST SHORT IT W/ A WIRE. MY RACE BIKE HAD NO KICKSTAND. WIRE WAS ALREADY SHORTED SO IT WOULD CRANK
 

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Hi there, I recently have the same problem with my 2006 zx10r , my bike could not go past 8k rpm , forcing the throttle only resulting a strong jerking from the bike which might seems like is over rev the limiter . Have try most of solution up there but I will like to hear more about the atmospheric pressure sensors , I think it might be the cause of it
 

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Hello all, I recently bought a 07' ZX6R (yesterday actually). only has 1,400 miles on it. Well took it home, didn't really open her up till today. When I had it at the dealer I played with the throttle, she redlined to 16.5k just fine in neutral, she ran strong on the way home but I really didn't open her up past 6-7k since she is more bike than i'm used too (coming off a 650) Anyways I get around to playing with her today and went to take her up a bit. Ran into the bucking horse, and it unnerved me a bit at first. It wouldn't rev past 10k while riding, or while coasting with clutch in tried reving, same thing. In park she wouldn't rev past 8k. Well I immediately did the google search and came here. I seen the side switch suggestion and went out real quick and dinked with it. I simply just unmounted from the bike wiggled it a bit, put it back on and tried reving. All the way to redline. My question is, is this a loose wire? Loose side-stand spring? what causes this?
 

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anddd I'm another victim of this problem on my 04 636!

altho code 13 came up about the input air temperature sensor...someone was mentioning something about this previously? to resolve the problem, is it as simple as replacing the existing sensor or...? any help would be appreciated!
 

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Sorry for bringing up a old pist.

I have a 2006 636 and it was doing something similar. When running down side roads and roads less then 40mph my coolant temp would run around 200 F, and it would run great. Then on cooler days or highway speeds my coolant temp would drop to 160 F (which was normal). When it would drop below 180 F it would run its ass off till I hit 11k, then it would act like someone was hitting my kill switch. Regardless of throttle position. I tried all the things listed in this thread no luck. It ended up being a 18$ intake air temp sensor located in the air box to the right of the last secondary fuel injectors. I'm posting this incase someone has the same problem. It's wack though b/c the all the sensors pass the service manual inspections.

Good luck hope it helped
 

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Feels like it hits a rev limitter

Has anyone figured this issue out, I have had the same problem with my 2010 cbr1000rr, replaced the spark plugs, cleaned the fuel system by taking it all out and actually cleaning it, no mods other than a slip on voodoo, but the issue was there before the slip on. I have taken it to multiple shops and no seems to know what is going on with it.
 

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check your vacum lines on your throttle bodies and your pair valve vacum exactly what my bike done when i first got it the vacum that hooks to the t on the pair valve plumbing was hooked to the barometric pressure sensor and the vacum would give the sensor a false reading and the bikes air fuel ratio was thus out of wack this would be the first thing i would check but cracked vacum hoses or a leaky air box could aslo cause similer problems so could a failing fuel pump
 
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