[Centipede]

I have no power at WOT about 7000 to 8000 rpm. The bike will not rev any more passed 7000 rpm. When the revs go up to 8000rpm the bike starts to lose power and revs down back to 6500rpm.
The only thing I did was check my valve clearnces and shim the valves. Rides fine up to 7000rpm.

 

[ozanbacak]

I have a solution for you. Clean your carbs. I had the exact same problem (mine was 4000rpm)
Take off your airbox, access your carbs. Push the slides up with your finger. First of all you should have vacuum, and the slide comes back. Make sure all the needles are in place (not loose). While you're pushing them up check for any buildup on the needles. Mine had buildup on all needles on the same spot, which blocked the fuel @4000 rpm. It is very likely that you have that too. Even if you don't have it, just pull the carbs out and clean them. Pull the main jet out and clean it (use a brass wire)

Let me know if you need any help. i know how frustrating it is.

 

[Centipede]

Thanks for the advice. Let me ask this if I take out the jets how will I know how to get them back in the same position.

 

[ozanbacak]

By jets, do you mean the needles? You don't have to take those out. If you mean the actual jets, they are llike screws. You just screw them on tho their housings (do not tighten too much)
Here's what my carbs looked like (sorry about the bad quality, cell phone...)
Note the deposits by the floats.

 

[ozanbacak]

BTW on the last picture you can see the jets. The long one is the main jet(on the right). and the shorter one on the left is the pilot jet. When you're in there, just clean both the main and the pilot jets. When you're unscrewing the main jet make sure you hold the housing with pliers (again not too much force).

As you would probably already know, to get to this area of the carbs, you gotta take the carbs off and flip it around. Make sure you use a good screwdriver. It's very easy to strip the screws. They will be tight. It they don't budge, tap them with a small hammer. If not, you can always use dremel on on the screw like I had to. [B)]Also Make sure you drain the floats (you'll most likely see dirt pouring out)before you open the carbs.

 

[Centipede]

I talked to the Kawasaki dealer service dept. and explain what the bike was doing and what I did before. He said it sound like a cam timing is off. Can anyone confirm that is might be the problem.
I didn't mess with the carbs and it was running fine before adjusting the valves.

 

[ozanbacak]

It very well might be the problem. The symptoms are similar (as I've heard) I have no experience with valve adjustment or cam timing. Good luck. BTW carbs are much easier than valve work, so if you handled valves carbsshould be a walk in the park for you. Good luck

 

[MelloZX6]

What's up everyone I am new to the site and I am having the same issue with my 2001 ZX6R. I spoke to a mechanic and he said the carb bowls may just be dirty but I will run the cam timing down to him to see what he thinks.

 

[Centipede]

I checked my cam timing three times already and I know it's right the timing marks line up when I rotate the crankshaft. I will check my carbs tonight. What a pain in the ass this whole thing has been.

 

[MelloZX6]

he also mentioned to check all vaccum lines as well but clogged jets is usually the issue for this but we'll see what the results are after he is done.

 

[Centipede]

FINALLY!!!!!!! I got the timing right. Bike is running strong. I think I left the vaccum hose that goes to the carbs off which might explain why the bike ran like shit. At least know I'm an expert at cam timing.

 

[humveeroadrunner]

good to hear...just remember in the future, start simple..dirty carbs and vacuum issues are a very common problem......cam timing definitely is not

 

[GreenEnvy]

Doh, I coulda saved you some time if I had checked in here earlier
Sounded just like a vaccum hose being disconnected. I did the same thing recently, I knocked a vaccum hose off when working on the airbox, oops!