Picking up my new bike next Saturday and reading the various break-in advice I'll need to do an oil-change myself. It's a bit embarassing, I don't know if I should admit it, but I've never done that before! [:0][:I] I've done chain/sprockets, brake pads, air filter... just not the oil!
I have a pal who'll help me through my tough first time, I'm sure it'll be fine. My question was - What oil filter do I get? Do you have to get a Kawasaki one or what? Are they different sizes? Thing is I don't want to buy it off the dealer as they'll then know I'm not following the break-in procedure as defined in the official manual. I don't want to affect my warranty in any way... or am I being paranoid!?
First of all, who cares what the kawi reps think of. And if its a new bike give it a oem filter and oil...after that break in correctly do what you want, its your bike and your paying for it not them...enjoy your new ride. [}]
I always change the oil at least once before the break in period is done. At 200 miles, I change the oil because a lot of breaking in bikes shave some metal into the oil. My '03 zx6r did not have any shavings when I changed the oil, so I might not consider that. For the oil, I get it from a dealer and buy the same filter down the road at a parts store for 1/3 the price. Buy 4 filters, because you can roll through those things when you start to put more miles on the bike.
You do not have to use kawasaki oil (kawachem) but for your first oil change use NON-synsethic 10w40 it doesnt really matter what brand. But make sure its motorcycle oil NOT automotive. I did my first oil change on my 03 636 at 1050 miles and no metal chaving were in the oil at all. The oil actually still looked pretty damn new. But I would sugest your first oil change at 500-600 miles on it just to be sure.
There have been several studies done that demonstrate that the only difference between motorcycle specific oil and car oil is the price.
The same cannot be said for oil filters, however. The aftermarket oil filters are not made by the same company (Toyo Roki Mfg Co, LTD) that makes the OEM ones and you can see a difference in build quality. Many of them are made by the company that makes Fram. Do a search on their quality and see what you come up with.
So I would buy name brand 10w40 car oil for break in and OEM filter.
Agree about the Fram comments from swjohnsey, but not on the Car oil thing (many car oils use friction modifiers which can shag a wet clutch), 10W40 for the UK and use a bog standard mineral bike oil until the bikes done at least 1000 miles. Any bike dealer local to you should be able to get oem Kawasaki filters regardless of what manufacturer they are agents for and they shouldn't be anymore expensive than an official agent.
BTW I saw a black 2003ZX6R in Cheltenahm last night, it was the shop demonstrator (on trade plates) and had 60 miles on it (the mechanic had taken it home to put some gentle miles on it before letting the punters loose on it)
Everyone is so worried about what the manufacturer wants us to do, so I figure if it is good for them it is good for me. I use the oem filter and Kawasaki oil. There might be better out there but like I said if Kawasaki uses it, it has to be good.
Use a good car oil without the energy conservation label on it. Those are safe for wet clutches. The cheaper oil maens it hurts less to change your oil more frequently.
Many bike guys use Mobil1 15w40 full synthetic -- I use it for my bike, 5000 km and then drain it and use it in my van for another 5000km in the van. Do NOT use Mobil1 5w30 or 10w30. Those are energy conserving/NOT wet clutch safe.
Another good option are heavy duty/diesel oils (IE Rotella). Some turbodiesel big rigs only change their oil after 40000km with really good (IE Rotella) oil.
Some bikers who are chemical engineers have tested many oils and love the heavy duty/diesel oils, finding them superior in formulation than bike oils. Mobil1 tested very well, too.
I have also heard great things about mobil 1 motor oil. They now make a mobil one oil just for bikes. It runs around $2.89 USD. Thats only about a dollor more than their car oil. I think its worth it though. For an extra $4 I'd rather have peace of mind. I actually use Motal 3000 in 10w40 and 20w50 in the summer. Unless you race you shouldn't get a fully sysnthetic oil. With them your clutch is more likely to slip than in non or semi synthetic. Also those fully synthetic oils can cost up to $18 a qaurt! WOW huh
Wow, I actualy buy my oil at the kawasaki dealership. It will say like $3.99 or $4.99 on the qaurt but just ask them what price they can give it to you for because you always shop there. I've noticed that almost all dealerships have 2 prices for everything. The price on the stick and the real price. Dont be affraid to say you want the "Real" price.
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