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Thanks to this post it saved me.

Thanks all,

So I've done 40+ oil changes in the past 10 yrs (I commute 20k a yr so I do one every other month) and never had this problem until today. I've done oil changes on my 02VFR, two ZX636's, a ZX9, two ZX10's, a GSXR1000. Today I did my second oil change on my 09 ZX6R. I pre filled the OEM filter and started the bike and the oil pressure light stayed on. Went to the forum and tried the following;

1. With engine running I removed oil cap placing a rag over the hole. Didn't work

2. Removed oil filter with engine off and replaced filter with a new on. Didn't work

3. Shook bike from side to side with engine off. Didn't work

4. With engine running I slowly unscrewed oil filter to the point where oil just started to come out then I quickly screwed filter back on. THIS IMMEDIATELY SOLVED THE PROBLEM AND THE OIL LIGHT WENT OUT AS SOON AS THE OIL STARTED COMING OUT.


The only thing I did differently with this oil change from my previous ones was I let the old oil drain for over an hr while I did somthing else. On my previous changes I drained the oil then within 10 min I filled it back up and starting the bike.

Thanks again
 

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I'm no bike expert, but I'm thinking that pre-soaking a filter is what would cause the air pocket. I have changed my bike oil at least 6 or 7 times, and every time I put the new filter on dry right out of the package and have never had a problem. Once I crank the engine, the oil goes into the dry filter and all the dry flaps start to absorb the oil evenly so there would seem to be no reason for any air pockets. Again, I'm no expert. Is this something that is bike specific?
 

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on earlier year hd sportsters i believe pre 07 (dont quote me)

you had to put oil in and wait (with engine off of course :rolleyes:)
until fresh oil came out the drain plug and then cap it other wise you would develop an air leak.

so on pretty much everything i do this on just because it cant hurt anything and i never want to develop an air leak.

has anyone tried not putting the oil drain nut back on until fresh oil ran out?

thats what i would try first.. but thats me. :D

my oil change procedure

1. warm up engine
2. setup drain pan
3. remove oil fill cap
4. remove oil drain bolt (if its really dirty il pour some fresh oil thru just to clean it out a little)
5. remove oil filter.
6. give new oil filter some oil and oil seal then put on 1/4 turn past snug.
7. add some oil
8. wait for leakage from drain and install the bolt
9. add remaining oil to factory spec.
 

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MadViking Is the MAN!!

Hey Everyone,

I know this thread is old, and it's like beating a dead horse a little bit, but after reading all of the posts on the thread, I would like to see if I can help getting to the bottom of this.

I just changed my oil on my '03 636 (seems like a lot of people on this thread have issues with this year/model) and when I started the bike, I could hear the difference immediately in engine noise. I look up, oil light is on.

My process for the oil change was as follows:

1. Remove all fairings, etc.
2. Turn bike on, let it warm up, then shut her down.
3. Drain old oil and remove filter. (I let it drain for about 25 minutes, until no oil was dripping down at all).
4. Put plug back in, and put the filter on without soaking it (only put a little oil on the rubber piece around the filter). I did this purposely because most people on this thread were soaking their filters. I wanted to see if a dry filter made any difference.
5. Tightened everything up and added oil.I then checked oil level in sight. Looked good.
6. Started her up, and heard the motor/saw the oil light on. Immediately turned off.

I will be burping it tomorrow and will report back my findings. I can make a movie with my phone of the oil light on and off after I burp for all those skeptics out there...with tomorrow's newspaper in the shot (for the conspiracy theorists...lol).

I would like to thank you, MadViking, for posting information that a lot of people do not have (and that's certainly not in the owners manual!!!). To all those people who are doubting that this happens, buy an 03 636 and do an oil change. Maybe then you will see.

I will tell you one thing, the first time I changed my oil on the bike, I re-used the old oil filter. I left it on there and just replaced the oil. The reason that I did this was because the oil was supposedly changed less than 250 miles ago, but I wanted to be sure and have a look at the color/clarity of the oil. When I did this first change, I had no issues with the oil light or the pump losing it's prime. I found this interesting.

What I am thinking is this: When you leave the filter on between changes (not recommending this) the oil between the filter and the pump stays in place and therefor does not lose it's suction at the pump. I know on the DSM that I built, I needed to pull the fuel pump relay and rotate the motor to prime the oil pump before starting and running the motor (otherwise the oil pump will never suck any oil up and you would ruin your motor). When you remove the filter and let all the oil drain out, the space that was previously filled with oil is now filled with air. This causes the oil pump to spin, but does not pick up oil to send through the motor. With the oil filter on the bike, there is no way for the pump to get passed the air and get to the oil to send it through the motor.

Backing the filter off relieves the pressure that is keeping the new oil from getting to the pump. Think of it this way. If you take a straw and fill it with a little water, then a little air, then more water, you can move that air bubble around by tipping the straw in different directions. Unfortunately, you cannot tip the bike in every direction, only left and right, which most likely does not allow the oil to travel the correct path the find the pump...

I will let you know tomorrow how it goes. Thanks again MadViking. I am a believer! I hope this little mini-experiment helps someone get to the root cause of this issue.

-Scott
 

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I just fill the new oil filter with new oil and in all my years of riding I have never ever "burped" a motorcycle oil filter. Oh and I did own a 2003 ZX6RR and never had a problem.

:dunno:


Sent from my Motorcycle iPhone app
 

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I can't believe that there are still skeptics. I will make a video tomorrow of the whole process that madviking is referring to. How can so many people that have gone through the same thing be considered wrong on this thread? I guess no one here knows how to change oil... I guess I'm one of those people as well. I also guess my 10+ years of building motors means I know nothing about any of this...

Also, how much different can you be in the process of changing your oil vs everyone on the thread?

I appreciate your brief comment on the issue. I will fill up the oil filter before I try the burping method to make sure I'm changing my oil to your standards... This reminds me of all the people who say crankwalk doesn't exist on the 4g63 motor. It doesn't, until it happens to you.

-Scott
 

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***update***

I removed the left fender today. I then loosened up the oil filter so I could turn it by hand for when I needed to "burp" it.

Started the bike. Oil light on and motor knocking like crazy still.

Immediately loosened the oil filter until oil started pouring out (Lost about 1/8 of a quart at most).

Checked the oil light after I noticed the oil coming out at the bottom. Still had the oil light. Looked back down and started tightening the oil filter again. By the time I looked back up again (4 seconds at most) the oil light was off and the bike was purring like a kitten.

Took her out for a ride and it ran perfectly. Again, thanks MadViking! You are "The Man"!!! lol :)

-Scott
 

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PRO TIP: just tip the bike almost on its right side.... basically squat it down until the bar end is about a foot off the ground. repeat as desired. i only need to do it once. your welcome. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #109
I haven't been on here in many years. Bought a 2018 GSX-R750 as I really wanted that cc.

Anyway, I still have my '01 ZX-6R that is flirting with 120K miles now, and did a spring oil change the other day. Sure enough, I had to burp it and it made me think of this old thread. All of the skeptics make me laugh. Glad I could help a few of you!

I sure do love that bike. To think that I have never run the valves or done anything to the motor absolutely amazes me. The timing chain is quite stretched I am sure (noisy and I get some harmonics through the bars), but not work the trouble at this point. Heck, I have never even cleaned the carbs and it still runs flawlessly. As a matter of fact, the fueling is much better than my 17-year newer fuel injected Suzuki with eight injectors and all the other BS. I had to buy a Bazzaz setup to try and smooth it out on an otherwise stock bike.

I am still doing track days ZX-9R. Currently running it naked as I can't find track plastics for it anymore. I had a pretty nasty high-side that trashed the sub-frame and plastics. I could find the parts easy enough, but no bodywork.

137758


When you know it is about to get real!!!
137759
 

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I'm thinking that pre-soaking a filter is what would cause the air pocket.
Wrong
my oil change procedure

1. warm up engine
2. setup drain pan
3. remove oil fill cap
4. remove oil drain bolt (if its really dirty il pour some fresh oil thru just to clean it out a little)
5. remove oil filter.
6. give new oil filter some oil and oil seal then put on 1/4 turn past snug.
7. add some oil
8. wait for leakage from drain and install the bolt

9. add remaining oil to factory spec.
Wrong
 
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