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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Gang,

I've got an 03' ZX7R. I'd like to do the floatbowl mod but, I need to take care of the d*** Cal Emissions crap first.
I've scowered everywhere looking for a write-up (step-by-step guide) but I can not find one or anything that closely resembles one. There's nothing out there.
I know I'm going to need a 49 state CDI but that is about it. Oh, I also know there are a couple hoses that need to be removed and I can scrap the box under the passenger seat.
So, anybody with a write-up on this or knows where I can get one is my hero!

Best Regards,

Jonathan
 

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I can only offer a little insight...

I had Cali tank that I bought from a salvage dealer. This L model zx7 tank had three vent lines on it instead of one. One of the three vents on the tank was the same as the 48 state....it was a drain line for any water around the fill neck. There was another that was to capture the venting fumes from the gas cap and channel it to the charcol cannister. There was a third line that was some kind of collection for condensation (evaporated gas) inside the tank....that line I "tee"d into the "on" fuel line.

Thats all I can offer you...

good luck
 

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red monkey has a thread about it, I've done it but it was yrs ago. Pretty simple really, about 5 lbs of crap to remove.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That website really doesn't have too much insight into the actual removal. It just says "we're removing everything emissions related and this is what you should have left" (shows a picture). It's def a step in the right direction, knowing what needs to come off that is, but I still am guessing at best as to "how-to"
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Oh, it also mentions nothing about needing a 49 state CDI. Do I NOT need it? Is there no dif between them?
 

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I dont think there is a CDI difference. I did not notice anything when I removed the emissions system and my 7 motor ran like a champ.

I think its pretty straight forward.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Man, I appreciate your prompt replies. I stay pretty busy and I have some time over the next two days to do this but that's it.

So, what I've gathered is doing this (emissions removal) it's pretty much almost doing the float bowl mod as well. Just need to plug two hoses additionally.

Any words of wisdom before I start?

Oh, I know I need two jumper hoses, can I use any of them from the emissions crap or do I need to go buy them (new)?
***The website says "2 pipes (Outside diameter:19mm length:86mm and the other:10mm x 35mm)
***It also says to use plastic as block off plates, however, some people did it without right? Is there an advantage to this?

Thanks again!

***referenced this website: http://homepage.ntlworld.com/webzxr/zxr750r/Features/ventbowl.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok, so I pretty much have everything off. I've run into a snag though. Coming from the condensor box in the "trunk", there was a vac hose that leads into a little medal canister. The canister also had t ovac hoses that cam from the tank, both Red and Blue. Then, on the bottom, there is an arrow (and another vac hose) pointing towards "Carb".

*Does this need to be taken off?
*What do I do with the vac hoses for the tank Red and Blue ports?
*What do I do with the vac hose coming off of it into the carb?

Help guys, I'm stuck until...

Thanks!
 

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Oh, it also mentions nothing about needing a 49 state CDI. Do I NOT need it? Is there no dif between them?

This is something learned on this forum: No you don't have too replace the CDI but after removing the smog and doing the floatbowl mod you will have a huge flat spot. I road like that for yrs. But yes there is a difference between the CA and 49 state CDI 5 degrees of difference. I read that in the service manual. A 49 state CDI and a +4 advancer will yeild greatly to the drivablity of your bike. Oh ya my bike and myself are from Cali. Its worth it to do it right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Major Problems

So, I finished taking off ALL of the emissions equipment.

Now, the bike won't even idle without the choke on. At first, it started right up and sounded great. I let it run for a minute, went to take off and it died on me. Then, it hesitated to start up again. Once it did, it would only run with the choke fully on and will die if you even touch the gas.

I assume this is a vacuum problem, correct?

I asked in a previous post if the red and blue (designated by stckers on the tank) lines need to be run somewhere or if I can just channel them down the side of the bike.
Well, that's what I've done. They run down the side with the yellow'ish clear tube (it's capped off at the end) that connects to the tank. The red and blue vac lines are not capped... didn't know if they need to be.

ANY HELP HERE WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!

Points of interest I can think of:
**Below the carbs is a series of vac tubes that ran together, one ran to the can in the rear, another had a line that ran down the side of the bike with a clear resevoir in it. Anyway, I capped off all of those at the engine.
**The red and blue vac lines are run down the side of the bike and ARE NOT capped off
**Used a jumper pipe to do the "float bowl mod" between the two larger tubes. People have mentioned plastic during this install and I'm not sure what they are refering to?
**I capped off the hole in the front right of the air box, the plastic to the hole kind of pretrudes out a little
**Bike only has 3100 miles on it
**
 

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Sounds like a vacuum leak. You said you capped the vacuum ports on the back sides of the intake manifolds (I had to clamp those caps on). The float bowls are connected to the air box? Make sure all the vacuum lines are connected, you musted have missed a step. Red monkey has a excellent write up on their site.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well, if by "Float Bowls Connected", you mean the little bar that runs across just above the the intake; then yes, they are connected. I'm refering to the thin black bar that connects to two hoes that run downward. Then, it turns into one hose and I've connected that hose to the top left of the air box.

I still have those damn two nipples (Marked by Red and Blue Stickers) on the gas tank that haven't really been addressed. They currently still just have the two hoses running them down to the side of the bike as though they were going to drain something :eek:)

I really do not know what to do with them. I believe they are my problem. Here lies the problem with blocking them (as I understand it). They aleviate pressure in the tank. If I block them, a negative vacuum will create in my tank. This could cause fuel not to come out properly, the cap might ot come off or even the tank to suck inwards (saw that on a Harly that didn't have a breather gas cap) and crush.
So I don't "think" I can just block them, I just don't know what else it could be???

ALSO, I'M NOW GETTING A CLICKING SOUND COMING FROM JUST UNDER THE BACK OF THE GAS TANK/IN FRONT OF THE BATTERY. NOT SURE WHAT IT IS? NEVER DID IT BEFORE BUT IT IS HIGHLY UNNERVING (when it actually starts)!!!!!
 

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Don't know what the clicking is but I connected a hose to the red and blue dotted nipples on the tank. When its hot out i hear the tank hissing, and sometimes when i open the gas tank to refuel i hear it repressurizing. Other then that the fuel system works fine on my bike. have you tried to raise the idle?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Don't know what the clicking is but I connected a hose to the red and blue dotted nipples on the tank. When its hot out i hear the tank hissing, and sometimes when i open the gas tank to refuel i hear it repressurizing. Other then that the fuel system works fine on my bike. have you tried to raise the idle?

So the Red is connected to the blue?
How empty of a tank when it hisses? Ever had to switch to the reserve and if so, any problems opening the tank?

Thanks bro
 

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you are correct, do not connect these two, one is open, I believe the one on the left, the other needs to be capped off, I think its the right- its an easy test, if wrong swap them, but they should not be run together-by running them together I think you are back pressuring the tank, which is probably causing the idle fuel delivery issue. I have a cali bike, but my cali tank is out at paint, and i have a 49 state tank on there, so problem solved, your almost there, and the igniter question that you had, it makes no practical difference, cali/49 everything should be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ok, Ive capped the right side and left the left side open...
I capped the left side and left the right side open...
Nothing.

Now the d*** thing won't even start. I can't even get it to "try" to start. Just getting the starter to turn and make noise. In the event of doing this, I've killed the battery twice. The d*** thing just won't even start now and shows no sign of trying.

Again, I tried plugging just one of the nipples, tried plugging both, tried leaving both open... nothing.

I am missing something guys. At this point, there is NOTHING not either capped or tubed (refer to above post of "points of interest"). Everything is off (emissions); period.

There is a vac problem somewhere. That's the only thing that makes sense. Ran great before this. Now, I can't even get it to start.

Does someone know if CA bikes have an extra issue after removal of the CARB system? These nipples are probably the problem, I just can't seem to solve it. Tried every combination there is with them. They are def smarter then me because they are kicking my @$$.

Do you have to rebuild pressure in the system after capping them? I'm just capping them and trying to start it. Do I have to have the bike make a certain amount of revolutions before pressure builds to allow it to start? I've never heard of such a thing... I'm just stumped and looking for a fix. Being out of options, I'm desperate!!!

Seriously guys, I'm sure SOMEONE has run into this before. Any info or hints are appreciated. I have to get this thing running. We have b ike week in Ocean City in two days... :(
 

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Dude the bike will run without the tank on it, its not going to make much difference until you got on a long ride and use some gas. Its on the engine some where. If your not getting spark, figure out if the +12 v to the coils got bumped off or something. Maybe your out of gas. CA/49 state CDI difference is only 5 degrees of timing so as Dave said it shouldn't matter for getting her running. When I did the conversion it fired right up afterwards. There is something wrong with your new setup. Go to red monkey and find the write-up, there are lots of pics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
I tried finding the referenced post on redmonker dot com. I can't seem to find it. I did find a float bowl mod thread, I think it had 57 posts if my memory serves me currectly, but, there were no pictures and it wasn't much help. The thread just kind of drifted. LOL. They started off great but it ended in random chit-chat.

I really do think it's those nipples. Pulled everything off today just to double-check. Nothing was a'miss.

I'm charging my battery over night and trying again in the morning... we'll see what happens.

Thanks again guys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
****FOR FUTURE REFERENCE TO THIS THREAD****

You do in fact HAVE TO PLUG THE RIGHT NIPPLE and TUBE THE LEFT NIPPLE.

Now, this is at your discretion wether you use one of the tubes from the emissions crap and just run it down with the clear tube on the left or"T" it into the fuel ON line.

It's my understanding theat there isn't a right or wrong between the two. The key here is to block the right one.

She started up and is purring like a kitten... I stroked 'er bum to show my appreciation :)

Cheers all and THANK YOU!
 
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