Anti-clockwise . . .lefty loosey, righty tighty.
Chain Slack
Hi Guys/Gals
I need to remove the rear axle nut to tighten the chain slack.
To loosen the axle nut do you have to turn it clockwise
or anticlockwise (before I break it <img src=icon_smile_blush.gif border=0 align=middle> !!).
I have a slack of a about 50mm and I can hear it making a noise
when ever there is unevenness on the road.
Thanks
JohnJ
I need to remove the rear axle nut to tighten the chain slack.
To loosen the axle nut do you have to turn it clockwise
or anticlockwise (before I break it <img src=icon_smile_blush.gif border=0 align=middle> !!).
I have a slack of a about 50mm and I can hear it making a noise
when ever there is unevenness on the road.
Thanks
JohnJ
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You don't have to remove the axle nut, just loosen it a little. That'll keep the chain from dragging it up so you know where you started. Also, you may want to have a wrench on both sides of the axle or you'll be spinning one side.
Diirk
'99 ZX6R
'02 Raptor
'01 Wolverine
'87 Radian
Diirk
'99 ZX6R
'02 Raptor
'01 Wolverine
'87 Radian
Hi,
I did move the wheel about 1mm back and the chain seems to be
very tight. The manual states to measure the chain slack by
pulling up and pushing down the chain midway b/w the engine
sprocket and rear wheel sprocket. If I put less force it moves
less than 30mm, however if I apply considerable force it moves more than 30mm. Does anyone know how much force needs to be applied
to measure the chain slack.
(I have only 500 miles on my bike)
Thanks
JohnJ
I did move the wheel about 1mm back and the chain seems to be
very tight. The manual states to measure the chain slack by
pulling up and pushing down the chain midway b/w the engine
sprocket and rear wheel sprocket. If I put less force it moves
less than 30mm, however if I apply considerable force it moves more than 30mm. Does anyone know how much force needs to be applied
to measure the chain slack.
(I have only 500 miles on my bike)
Thanks
JohnJ
John, I think you are over thinking it. To test slack, you shouldn't use that much force at all. Just apply enough force to get the chain moving in either direction (up or down) then don't measure that. Don't add force to get it to move anymore.
If I lose, then you cheated.
If I lose, then you cheated.
Find yourself a piece of cardboard about 2"x 8" with a staight edge on the 2" side. Place that edge on the bottom of the swing arm halfway between the center of the rear and front sprocket. Push up on the chain 'til it stops and mark location of the top on the cardboard. Push down on the chain and mark the location of the same spot on the chain on the cardboard. It should be 35-40 mm.
If your bike only has 500 miles on it, it shouldn't need chain adjustment, unless someone has tampered with it previously (wrecked?... not likely during the break-in period). Ideal slack is 1/2 inch from normal, resting position (up to 1" is not too bad). Pull tight, but do not "put your weight into it." It is normal to hear a little klacking when you hit a significant bump. A chain that is too tight will wear out the sprockets and chain very quickly.
This is not true, the other side is locked in the swingarm (well not locked in but it doesnt spin) take a look at it and you'll see what I mean.quote:
Also, you may want to have a wrench on both sides of the axle or you'll be spinning one side.
Take out the cotter pin (always use a new one) losen the nut with the tools kawai gave you and turn the screw the exact same turns for each site. Tighten up the Nut and put in the new cotter pin.
Your Done..
Easy to do
Edited by - zx6r_guy on 10/02/2002 19:16:28
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
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