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In Bulgaria the weather allows riding from mid-March to around mid-October, rest of the time its mostly cold and raining or snowing.

So I bought my ER-6f in May, then changed the first oil in June and since then I've ridden around 2k miles / 3.5k km and it's about time to put the motorcycle in the garage.

Some people say I should change the oil NOW so that there is no dirty oil in my Kawi, others say that if the oil does contact with the metal, it degrades anyway, driven or not, so I should wait beginning of next season.

My dealer said that everyone is chaning oil in the beginning of season, so so far I'm inclined to do that. But I want a more educated answer on what would be better for the motorcycle - I intend to ride it quite more years.

I use fully synthetic Belray 10W40 oil, and I rarely push the motorcycle to it's limits - if that matters.
 

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You should DEFINITELY change the oil at the beginning of the season, before taking the bike out. Oil degrades when left for long periods of time.

Some people change the oil right before storing the bike for winter, then change it again before taking the bike out. I don't see the point in this, IMO a waste of oil, the new oil is going to degrade anyway and if you don't start your bike while it is in storage I don't see any benefit.
 

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Maintenance manual from Kawasaki states to change the oil before putting the bike away for an extended period of time. Supposedly reduces any corrosives from the gas/combustion process that are floating in the dirty oil?
 

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I follow the manual which states what Peapod posted. I pretty much do exactly what the manual says for storing and taking back out of storage. I sure hope Kawasaki knows what they are doing. I think they have been at it for awhile. My bike sits in a detached garage about 2-4 months over the winter. Some winters are worse than others and/or I postpone putting it away hoping for another nice day or I get the itch early and take it out.
 

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Maintenance manual from Kawasaki states to change the oil before putting the bike away for an extended period of time. Supposedly reduces any corrosives from the gas/combustion process that are floating in the dirty oil?
2012 er6f/er6N says nothing about putting fresh oil in before storage. I don't really see leaving the existing oil as an issue in the case mentioned above.
 

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Change it before storage, then when it's time to ride, ride. As you ride, the oil breaks down and acids form, so you don't want these acids sitting on your internal parts as it sits. I believe it has to do with the imbalance of hydrogen and carbon atoms in the oil as it ages and breaks down. Acids and bases only really differ by their concentratiion of hydrogen atoms. Change it, start the bike to circulate the fresh oil and flush away any acids left behind.
 

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I would also suggest to do as the manual says.

However, I am against winter hibernation in general unless your region's climate is extremely cold.

Maybe it would be better to use your bike a couple of times per week even in harsh weather and then "revive" it completely next spring.

I crossed Bulgaria twice in late November and it wasn't that cold but it's your decision anyway!
 

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2012 er6f/er6N says nothing about putting fresh oil in before storage. I don't really see leaving the existing oil as an issue in the case mentioned above.
The owners manual from the Kawasaki website for the 2012 650R says differently. It would be interesting if they sent out different instructions with the bikes for different models.

Here is the 2009 manual. If you click on the storage link, you will see it says to "Put in fresh engine oil".

OWNER'S MANUAL | INSPECTION SCREEN
 

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I would also suggest to do as the manual says.

However, I am against winter hibernation in general unless your region's climate is extremely cold.

Maybe it would be better to use your bike a couple of times per week even in harsh weather and then "revive" it completely next spring.

I crossed Bulgaria twice in late November and it wasn't that cold but it's your decision anyway!
definitely not possible here. Both due to legal reasons (winter tires mandatory between dec.15-march15) as well as WAY too much snow/ice here during the winter.
 

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The owners manual from the Kawasaki website for the 2012 650R says differently. It would be interesting if they sent out different instructions with the bikes for different models.

Here is the 2009 manual. If you click on the storage link, you will see it says to "Put in fresh engine oil".

OWNER'S MANUAL | INSPECTION SCREEN
Well, actually I was looking in the SERVICE manual for the 2012 ER6N's, which is why it may have different recommendations or info than the actual owner's manual (service manual is more technical, explains how to do maintenance and replace parts, etc). I haven't actually had time to look into my owner's manual to validate that it says that but of course I believe you.

I do have some crappier castrol oil I don't mind using, but I just don't see the point of wasting good synthetic oil (which is what I am going to start using next season - rotella T6 since I already buy/use it on my subaru). Although it MAY be beneficial, I don't feel it will be beneficial enough to justify it. The owner's manual also has the same break-in procedure as 20-30 years ago, which is now known to be 'obsolete' (modern engines are manufactured to much higher tolerances, less 'break-in' needed). Being an engineer with a vehicle system's background, I naturally question these things, which is why I am sketchy about the oil recommendation before storage.
 

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Well, actually I was looking in the SERVICE manual for the 2012 ER6N's, which is why it may have different recommendations or info than the actual owner's manual (service manual is more technical, explains how to do maintenance and replace parts, etc). I haven't actually had time to look into my owner's manual to validate that it says that but of course I believe you.

I do have some crappier castrol oil I don't mind using, but I just don't see the point of wasting good synthetic oil (which is what I am going to start using next season - rotella T6 since I already buy/use it on my subaru). Although it MAY be beneficial, I don't feel it will be beneficial enough to justify it. The owner's manual also has the same break-in procedure as 20-30 years ago, which is now known to be 'obsolete' (modern engines are manufactured to much higher tolerances, less 'break-in' needed). Being an engineer with a vehicle system's background, I naturally question these things, which is why I am sketchy about the oil recommendation before storage.
I have the service manual but it doesn't even have a storage section. For the price of T6, I am not sure it would even matter. Then again, I only put on enough miles where I change it once at the end of the season. Funny because I commute to work on my bike almost every day. It's cool being less than 10 minutes from work in the truck but when I am on the bike, I wish it were more.
 

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definitely not possible here. Both due to legal reasons (winter tires mandatory between dec.15-march15) as well as WAY too much snow/ice here during the winter.
No doubt my friend, I lived in New York for a while and I think I know what you mean by way to much snow!

I was just reffering to Greece - southern Balkans but, again, it's up to the owner's needs and wishes.
 

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I have the service manual but it doesn't even have a storage section. For the price of T6, I am not sure it would even matter. Then again, I only put on enough miles where I change it once at the end of the season. Funny because I commute to work on my bike almost every day. It's cool being less than 10 minutes from work in the truck but when I am on the bike, I wish it were more.
I am not sure about later models but as concerns my first generation model there are many different manuals to download. I would recommend the full size, multi-page option but again there are variations.
 

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I'm a nerd about my oil. I change it every six months whether it has 3.5 miles or 3,500 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Change it before storage, then when it's time to ride, ride. As you ride, the oil breaks down and acids form, so you don't want these acids sitting on your internal parts as it sits. I believe it has to do with the imbalance of hydrogen and carbon atoms in the oil as it ages and breaks down. Acids and bases only really differ by their concentratiion of hydrogen atoms. Change it, start the bike to circulate the fresh oil and flush away any acids left behind.
Well, it's under warranty - I can only service it at dealer (and it's extremely cheap here anyway - something like 50 EUR for oil + oil filter change, labor included). So I will change the oil and ride the bike for 10km to the garage and store it.

I was just reffering to Greece - southern Balkans but, again, it's up to the owner's needs and wishes.
Well, I ride to Greece for fun often and the climate there is vastly different, though only 500km below Sofia. And here (Sofia) it's basically impossible to ride in the winter. It rains a lot starting mid October, then stars snowing a lot starting mid-November and temperatures fall to -10 often - there are icings on the road all the time. It's neither safe nor pleasant.

//

So in the end I should change the oil now (my manual also says to change before storing for prolonged time)?
 
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