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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys, I've been looking around on how to adjust the clutch and I've found quite a bunch of useful resources, but I still can't figure out how to use the adjuster, i've tried to twist it clockwise but yeah... Would adjusting my clutch fix my "slipping clutch" problem? (I'm starting to feel it so I want to fix it before it gets worst. :S
 

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you can adjust at the lever or down at the case. as far as the slipping goes how many miles ya got? might be worn out. find your friction zone and and just go from there. if you got the cable to tight the clutch might not be released all the way and give you that slipping feel.
 

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For the 250 there's supposed to be a "free play" of 2-3mm (ideally just a little bit of play in the clutch lever). If you're sitting on the bike and squeeze the clutch you can see the lever move on the transmission on the right side of the engine.

If you have the clutch adjuster at the lever all of the way out or in and still need more adjustment, then you have to adjust it where it connects to the transmission. Even though with most things want to eliminate play, you want to make sure there is a LITTLE bit of movement in the lever before you see the lever move down on the transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have about 9500kms on it so im not quite sure if my plates are worn out, as for the adjusting i can see where youre coming from, but in a sense its sorta not making sense (to me cos im a beginner lol)... I understand that supposedly im meant to have 2-3mm but I cant create that free play by just using my "adjuster" am I doing something wrong :s
 

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the clutch cable should not have any effect on "slipping" clutch unless it's frayed. i think it's time for you to get a new clutch.
 

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the clutch cable should not have any effect on "slipping" clutch unless it's frayed. i think it's time for you to get a new clutch.
if its too tight, it'll allow the to clutch slip.

proper clutch cable adjustment is important.
 

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the reason you have free play in the clutch cable is two fold.

1. so when you turn the bars it doesn't disengage the clutch unintentionally(same reason the throttle cables have freeplay in them)
2. so the clutch fully engages. if the cable is constantly pulling the pressure plate out, the clutch will always slip.

if you have run out of adjustment at the lever you'll have to adjust it at the clutch end.(the clutch cable does not connect to the transmission). when you turn the adjuster clockwise you're loosening the cable putting more free play into it. when you turn it counterclockwise you're giving it less play.

the free play on most bikes is around 3mm. that's the lever moving away from the perch 3mm before clutch disengagement starts. 3mm is not at the end of the lever.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
the reason you have free play in the clutch cable is two fold.

1. so when you turn the bars it doesn't disengage the clutch unintentionally(same reason the throttle cables have freeplay in them)
2. so the clutch fully engages. if the cable is constantly pulling the pressure plate out, the clutch will always slip.

if you have run out of adjustment at the lever you'll have to adjust it at the clutch end.(the clutch cable does not connect to the transmission). when you turn the adjuster clockwise you're loosening the cable putting more free play into it. when you turn it counterclockwise you're giving it less play.

the free play on most bikes is around 3mm. that's the lever moving away from the perch 3mm before clutch disengagement starts. 3mm is not at the end of the lever.
oh i sorta get it now, thanks! Could you elaborate on "if you have run out of adjustment at the lever you'll have to adjust it at the clutch end" and "3mm is not at the end of the lever" =\
 

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i'm not familiar with how the clutch cable is bracketed at the clutch end on the new 250, but it's probably a little bracket where a threaded portion of the clutch cable sheath goes. one nut goes on one side of the bracket and another nut goes on the other side. these two nuts hold it in place. if you loosen the nuts you can move exactly where the cable is fixed, providing more or less free play with the placement of the cable within the bracket.

if that makes any sense.

and what i mean by 3mm is not at the end of the lever is that when you move the lever you're not looking for 3mm of movement at the very end of the lever. you're looking for a 3mm gap between where the lever meats the clutch lever perch(the mount/pivot point for the lever)
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
btw, thanks for your help! Mostly appreciated..
+1

well i sorta solved it. I have another question, how do I check my clutch plates to see if theyre worn off?
 
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