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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Help me out clutch experts. Followed Kilaman's write-up to the letter & have no clutch lever no matter how I adjust it. It seems as if the release lever isn't actuating the pushrod. There is abt 4mm of play in the push rod b4 installing the cover & release lever. Is this normal? I'm beginning to think maybe the release lever is worn. It doesn't appear so but I've never seen a new one so I wouldn't know anyway. I'll attach a pic of it so someone here may be able to tell me. When installing the cover, the arm is pointed away from the bike toward me. It catches in the right position but has no tension. I can push it with one finger forward with no effort. Check out my pic & let me know.
 

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When you first put it in it should be pointed where the white line is.
Rotate the arm CLOCKWISE (Direction of yellow arrow).
It should catch or stop close to where the red line is.
Using your thumb, force the arm to where the green line is, the pink arrows show where you should feel A LOT of tension.
***MAKE SURE YOU HAVE PLENTY OF SLACK IN THE CABLE**** or its gonna be a BITCH to connect.
 

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Your release shaft doesn't look worn to me. That notch that cathes the rod was opened up a lot more when I had to replace mine. I do remember having a hard time getting it to catch tho. Definitely search the ZX9 section since a few of us had some problems with the clutch installs...Kilaman posted a couple, but I know there's a few more too.
 

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Sounds like you have an issue at the pressure plate. Do you have too many plates in the clutch? Are the plates tight in the basket? If you can move the outer tabs of the plates in the basket you may not have the pressure plate in right. Do you have the washer and thrust bearing installed correctly? If they're out of order the pull rod will not be in the right spot to be caught by the clutch cam.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Your release shaft doesn't look worn to me. That notch that cathes the rod was opened up a lot more when I had to replace mine. I do remember having a hard time getting it to catch tho. Definitely search the ZX9 section since a few of us had some problems with the clutch installs...Kilaman posted a couple, but I know there's a few more too.
Yeah I know. I read, read, & reread all the threads as to not run into the same problems.

Sounds like you have an issue at the pressure plate. Do you have too many plates in the clutch? Are the plates tight in the basket? If you can move the outer tabs of the plates in the basket you may not have the pressure plate in right. Do you have the washer and thrust bearing installed correctly? If they're out of order the pull rod will not be in the right spot to be caught by the clutch cam.
Good luck!
Same number (10) plates went in that came out. They are EBC SRC59. Plates are tight in the basket & the washer & thrust bearing are installed correctly as well. If by thrust bearing you mean part #92046.


The last plate installed as described in the write-up is flush with the outer edge of the basket. The pressure plate is flush with it. No space whatsoever.
 

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hmmm, wish i could help you out, my clutch went in fine, i'm just stopin in here to say hi to a local, maybe i'll see you around, i work in gary and live in michigan city, my bike should be done in a couple weeks, so if you ever see a green lowered and stretched turbo nine give me a wave
 

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Man, this is a tough one.............Just how far does the arm rotate counterclockwise with no tension? Does is eventually stop? I'm wondering if maybe the new clutch disks are significantly thicker and are moving the pull rod out too far and you run out of cam groove before it actually pulls the rod. I do recall hearing about someone else having this problem. This would have the same effect as not having the bearing or washer on the pull rod. Measure the disks for thickness to see how much thicker they are than the old ones. If it was more than a few mm it for the whole stack it could be the source of your problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
hmmm, wish i could help you out, my clutch went in fine, i'm just stopin in here to say hi to a local, maybe i'll see you around, i work in gary and live in michigan city, my bike should be done in a couple weeks, so if you ever see a green lowered and stretched turbo nine give me a wave
Shall do!

Man, this is a tough one.............Just how far does the arm rotate counterclockwise with no tension? Does is eventually stop? I'm wondering if maybe the new clutch disks are significantly thicker and are moving the pull rod out too far and you run out of cam groove before it actually pulls the rod. I do recall hearing about someone else having this problem. This would have the same effect as not having the bearing or washer on the pull rod. Measure the disks for thickness to see how much thicker they are than the old ones. If it was more than a few mm it for the whole stack it could be the source of your problems.
The arms stops right around 90 degrees pointing towards the bike. No tension up until that point & wont move any furthur as if the rod has caught. No movement in the pressure plate during this rotation. And of course too much slack would be in the cable at this point.

I will say this, I tried shimming the rod with washer abt 4 mm cause that was how far the rod goes in & out of the pressure plate. That's the only way I got tension & movement of the pressure plate but as the clutch lever got closer to the bar the pressure plate contacted the inside of the cover & stopped the rear wheel.

Gonna go thru some more threads again to see if I've missed something.

Could it be the steels too thin. They don't look bad at all but just searching for possibilities. Before taking apart the clutch action was fine. Just had started slipping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
After studying some of your pictures I notice the edge of the pressure plate lined up right under the tabs. I believe this is where my problem lies. In the alignment of the plate in the hub. I took all plates out & reinstalled making sure they were pushed all the way in but still lined up the same way. I also noticed the the notched part of you all's plates were not lined up. When I installed mine I lined all the notches up except the last one of course. Can this make a difference or does it matter since the plates spin anyway & would end up different. I've got some pics to try & explain.

1. the pressure plate with all plates. It sits outside the hub.
2. comparing old plate with new. new on the right.
3. pressure plate with 1 steel & 1 fiber removed. Release lever caught and actuated pressure plate like it seems it should. No play in the push rod. looks like yours but plates aren't tight & clutch doesn't disengage rear wheel when in gear. Also able to turn wheel with some resistance installed this way.
4. rod pulled out with all plates installed
5. rod pushed in with all plates installed

I'm about at my wits end with this but determined to get it done.
 

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Not sure if this has anything to do with your problem, but now that I think back, when I replaced my clutch (I went from barnett to oem) it never worked right until I replaced both the release shaft and the rod. With the new shaft and old rod, the shaft would sometimes slip off leaving me with no clutch. Your rod doesn't look worn, but mine really didn't either.

Good luck man.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Another website states that some aftermarket kits eliminate the friction plate washer & spring. Has anyone removed these on their installs?
 

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No! if its not there you will start breaking fibers! Just make sure it fits INSIDE (in the I.D) of one of the fibers at the BOTTOM of the stack. If you happen to stack a fiber ontop of that washer and spring it will make the stack about .080 to thick. That moves the pressure plate out farther, and will cause it to hit the cover when you try to disengage it, like i believe you said happened once? Some clutchs come with ONE fiber that has a larger I.D. than the others just for that spring. I have also seen some that have ALL the fibers with the large I.D. Just double check that you are not STACKING anything on that spring in the bottom of the basket. Best of luck!


Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So many suggestions. Chris, if I'm understanding you correctly I need to find which fiber the spring fits in or maybe all. Which way does it go concave in or out(away from the bike. That makes sense what you're saying. So the washer & spring fits inside fiber? If that's the case wouldn't the first fiber in be against the bottom of the basket then? I won't be messing with this again until tomorrow so if you don't mind checking in I'll let you know what happened.
 

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You are correct. That spring and washer go inside the FIRST fiber you put in. In the bottom of the basket (actually right against the inner hub) Washer in first, then put the spring in like its an arrow, pointed into the motor. Hope that helps ya out!


Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Take a look at this gap b/w the clutch hub & the bottom of the basket. Is this normal? Should the hub be flush with the bottom of the basket?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
You are correct. That spring and washer go inside the FIRST fiber you put in. In the bottom of the basket (actually right against the inner hub) Washer in first, then put the spring in like its an arrow, pointed into the motor. Hope that helps ya out!


Chris
The washer & spring fit inside all the fibers so I don't think that was the problem. When I installed the new plates again I verified they were inside I.D. 1st plate installed.
 

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dont know if this will help or not??? Measure the thickness of your steels. The factory ones come in 3 different thicknesses. 2.0 2.3 or 2.6. If you have all 2.0's it is likely too thin if it is all 2.6's and possibly even 2.3's your stack heighth will be too thick. This will eliminate whether it is a steel thickness issue. I believe I normally use mostly 2.0's and a few 2.3's or 2.6's. Also just to see if it is too thick remove one steel and nothing else to see if the lever works properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
dont know if this will help or not??? Measure the thickness of your steels. The factory ones come in 3 different thicknesses. 2.0 2.3 or 2.6. If you have all 2.0's it is likely too thin if it is all 2.6's and possibly even 2.3's your stack heighth will be too thick. This will eliminate whether it is a steel thickness issue. I believe I normally use mostly 2.0's and a few 2.3's or 2.6's. Also just to see if it is too thick remove one steel and nothing else to see if the lever works properly.
I only replaced the friction plates. If I removed one steel I'd have 2 fibers touching. Will it work like this? Or are you just saying do this to test the lever?
 

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I only replaced the friction plates. If I removed one steel I'd have 2 fibers touching. Will it work like this? Or are you just saying do this to test the lever?
Just to test the lever. But I do know people that have double stacked fibers on race only turbo bikes. Dont know how it would do for everyday use.
 
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