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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just put a new Barnett clutch kit in my 9er, new springs and everything. Its was my first clutch and im pretty sure i did everything right, wasnt that difficult. Anyways, its slipping pretty bad when i crack on it in any gear, but if i give it a moderate amount of throttle it pulls really smoothly. Why is it slipping? Do i need to go through a break in process? Or what am i missing? thanks
 

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Did you soak the plates in oil an hour before you installed them? Did you put the steels in the right way? Did you get the teeth lined up right on the last plate? Did you install the thinnest plate first? Torque the spring bolts to spec? Did you get the clutch plate washer in the right way?

Its an easy job but there are alot of things to screw up that could cause the clutch to slip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
ya i soaked the everything overnight, I installed the friction pad and plates just as it said too. And ya i touqued the springs down. Im lost now, i may just tear it apart and re-do everything.
 

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It's pretty well known that Barnetts don't work well with C models. I bought mine with a Barnett kit and it either slipped or dragged depending on how it was adjusted. After fooling around with it for over a year, I ended up ripping it out and putting in an oem. She shifts like butter now.
 

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It's pretty well known that Barnetts don't work well with C models. I bought mine with a Barnett kit and it either slipped or dragged depending on how it was adjusted. After fooling around with it for over a year, I ended up ripping it out and putting in an oem. She shifts like butter now.
I agree, but the issue i had was it didnt last long... but it did last a little while. Barnett or not it shouldnt slip the day after you put it back together. Somethin' aint in there right. :)
 

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It's pretty well known that Barnetts don't work well with C models. I bought mine with a Barnett kit and it either slipped or dragged depending on how it was adjusted. After fooling around with it for over a year, I ended up ripping it out and putting in an oem. She shifts like butter now.

I wanted to say the exact same thing but didnt want to be mr. negative. When mine was stock i did a barnett and it did the same thing. either it wouldnt slip and wouldnt disengage, or it would disengage and slip like mad!. No reason, tried playing with it for a week and gave up. put in and EBC and it worked fine. I dont know if barnetts swell with heat or what, but terrible reputation for not working.

chris
 

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I wanted to say the exact same thing but didnt want to be mr. negative. When mine was stock i did a barnett and it did the same thing. either it wouldnt slip and wouldnt disengage, or it would disengage and slip like mad!. No reason, tried playing with it for a week and gave up. put in and EBC and it worked fine. I dont know if barnetts swell with heat or what, but terrible reputation for not working.

chris
A while back, I was talking to a mechanic at Ricky Gadsen's shop who said it was the thickness of the barnett steels throwing off the stack height. He said C model ZX9s are sensitive to that. Good to know your EBCs worked for the next time around...the oem kit cost me over $300 in parts.
 

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this may come across as a stupid statement as I see some knowledgable people have already chimed in, but the first time I messed with my clutch I did not adjust it properly and was experiencing the same issue. After an adjustment all was well
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for all your help guys. I was hoping it was just an adjustment, but ive been adjusting it every which way possible. Seems like the concensus is that the Barnett just doesnt work well for my bike. Im gonna try to adjust 1 more time, ill keep updated.
 

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The thing with a clutch is that is no real adjustment, the stack height can be off by quite a bit ( i even run 1 extra steel in mine,which is .093 extra!) but as long and the slack is out of the cable you still get the same amount of disengagement. Thas why i think its in the material Barnett uses. When i had my issues, it was with OEM steels and Barnett fibers, changed JUST the fibers to EBC, and was good to go!

Just something to think about, hope ya get it sorted.

Chris
 

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Trash the barrnetts. Get some oem from bikebandit and gixxer 1000 heavy duty springs from brockracing and call it a day!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Tore it down tonight, plan on re-doing it tomorrow and see what happens, any suggestions on the re-build? Anyone have a pic of what a burt clutch looks like? Cause my OEM doesnt actually look that bad. Bike had 27,000 miles.
 

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I have a clutch how to on here.
 

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I just put a barnett complete clutch kit in my 98 9r and its doing great. When i first put it in a had my clutch cable too tight and it would slip when i gave it lots of gas, i adjusted the clutch lever to have some free play and it does great. Just make sure you put the last friction one slot off from the rest and the outer basket hub deal(Im not sure what its called) can only go on one way, all the other ways it wont slide all the way up, so make sure you try it then rotate it then try it then rotate it until it slides all the way up to the plates flush. Im just telling you all the stuff i ran into when i installed mine, hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Cool, im glad you told me it worked out for you BLkmaroman, give me some hope that i can get mine to work. Im about to get started on re-doing it. Also kilaman, i couldnt find your how-to. Could you post up the link. Thanks ofr the help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
well after readin Kilaman's How To i realized i didnt offset the last friction pad. Is this most likely causing my slipping problem?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I amswered my own question, that damn last friction plate was the key, she is pulling like never before now. Thanks for all the help, slipper clutch in the 636 is next so be ready for some more questions.........
 

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(cough) REPS (cough)
 
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(cough) REPS (cough)
Belated reps for the how-to since repping didn't exist then. Saved my ass on the clutch install too.
 
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