cracked stator cover
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I would not trust welding it or jb weld personally. When I cracked mine i went out and bought a WoodCraft cover. They have a changable skid plate on them and they are built out of billit aluminum. I dont know what the stock covers are made of but i know they are week as he!!.
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38,890 Posts
AL.
should be able to be welded...tig id think.
but they are VERY thin.
BUT, when mine got crackedhairline), i put a tiny bit of silicone on the crack, and ran my finger down it. pushing it into the crack.
after it cured, i wiped off the excess, and no more leak.
that was probably 15,000 miles ago.
should be able to be welded...tig id think.
but they are VERY thin.
BUT, when mine got crackedhairline), i put a tiny bit of silicone on the crack, and ran my finger down it. pushing it into the crack.
after it cured, i wiped off the excess, and no more leak.
that was probably 15,000 miles ago.
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38,890 Posts
no. it was a tiny hairline crack. and was only lightly weeping oil. never even made a DROP.
pics?
if its too bad, silicone prob wont fix it.
edit: oh, and actually mine was the clutch cover....
my stator has some decent gouges in it..but has never leaked.
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148 Posts
I've used JB weld to repair a stator cover and never had any problems with it... until I was hit by a car and the bike smacked the ground.
IF you are going to do this for a fix, make sure to remove the stator, clean all the oil off good, get some sandpaper etc to rough things up a bit and then apply in the inside and outside. Make sure not to make too large a bead on the inside as this could get in the way of the stator etc.
Make sure you apply to the inside and outside, and also be sure to use the two part JB weld and not the putty stuff (works like crap). After it hardened up I used a spray can primer, and some black spraypaint and it came out looking great.
IF you are going to do this for a fix, make sure to remove the stator, clean all the oil off good, get some sandpaper etc to rough things up a bit and then apply in the inside and outside. Make sure not to make too large a bead on the inside as this could get in the way of the stator etc.
Make sure you apply to the inside and outside, and also be sure to use the two part JB weld and not the putty stuff (works like crap). After it hardened up I used a spray can primer, and some black spraypaint and it came out looking great.
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28,313 Posts
Yes it can be welded.
they're low-grade cast aluminum.
use straight argon, not helium. (helium burns hotter).
TIG weld on LOW current. it's thin metal. acid dip first to leech out the oil otherwise it'll burn and pop and be a VERY messy and porous weld.
if you can't acid dip, then use a can of brakleen and clean the shit out of it, then prep with a stainless bristle wire brush.. make that metal shiny as fuck.
watch warp as well.. remember the stator core bolts to it.. shopuld warp if you're careful and fairly quick.
also, since it IS cast, preheat in an over after surface prep to 400*F weld, then stick back in the over and let it cool over the next 2-3 hours if you can.. drop 100* per hour.
good luck!
oh, and JB weld when will hold when done right as well.. again, surface prep is key. clean and scored with a wire brush or sandpaper to let the epoxy bond to something thats NOT glass-smooth!
they're low-grade cast aluminum.
use straight argon, not helium. (helium burns hotter).
TIG weld on LOW current. it's thin metal. acid dip first to leech out the oil otherwise it'll burn and pop and be a VERY messy and porous weld.
if you can't acid dip, then use a can of brakleen and clean the shit out of it, then prep with a stainless bristle wire brush.. make that metal shiny as fuck.
watch warp as well.. remember the stator core bolts to it.. shopuld warp if you're careful and fairly quick.
also, since it IS cast, preheat in an over after surface prep to 400*F weld, then stick back in the over and let it cool over the next 2-3 hours if you can.. drop 100* per hour.
good luck!
oh, and JB weld when will hold when done right as well.. again, surface prep is key. clean and scored with a wire brush or sandpaper to let the epoxy bond to something thats NOT glass-smooth!
I'm pretty sure the cover is made out of magnesium alloy. They tend to crack at strange angles and can be hard to seal with JB weld sometimes. You can TIG weld them though. If you are lucky and you prep it properly like WH said, it should work.
I have had both my clutch and stator welded, but mine is straight cast aluminum. $4.95 rattle can of gun-metal gray and it's hard to tell there was ever any damage.
I have had both my clutch and stator welded, but mine is straight cast aluminum. $4.95 rattle can of gun-metal gray and it's hard to tell there was ever any damage.
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158 Posts
well even if you weld it. its still week because the metal its made from is diffrent than aluminum or steel. if you drop it again or damage it it will cost you more to tow the bike than a new cover. its about 90 dollars . i say use the jb weld for now but eventully you will need to change it. go with WoodCraft or a cover made out of aluminum like tough guy
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24 Posts
Welding maybe, jb welding no, buy a new one, YES!!!
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147 Posts
It's magnesium. There should be a little "MG" on it somewhere.
Yes, it can be welded, but no it won't hold. There are two cracks in your cover, the one you can see and the rest of it on either side that you cannot see. It will be more trouble then it's worth in the long run. Personally I would replace it. Look on ebay and find a good one then you won't have to worry about going down over a some oil on your tire.
imo
Yes, it can be welded, but no it won't hold. There are two cracks in your cover, the one you can see and the rest of it on either side that you cannot see. It will be more trouble then it's worth in the long run. Personally I would replace it. Look on ebay and find a good one then you won't have to worry about going down over a some oil on your tire.
imo
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1,207 Posts
yeah thats what i eneded up doing, i was just wondering if other people have had the problem as well. the previous owner just smeared rtv arround the outside of it instead of doing it the rite way, and obviously that didnt work... dumb ass lol. the gromet actually wiggled arround a bit but it should be good now. btw, it leaked about 3qts.
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