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Discussion Starter #1
OK, I know, this is a total shot in the dark, Trying to help a friend out.

My buddy got his kid this little pit bike that's supposed to be a Honda CT110 clone, apparently its a very common design.

Anyway the bike has been worked on by a lot of people, the wiring harness is all hacked up etc, but the bike was running fine, Then his son dropped it and now it wont start.

I went through all the connections n the harness and re spliced everything etc, But I get the feeling either the stator, rectifier or CDI box is bad.

I've done a fair amount of looking and there appear to be two types of stators, 1 type has 2 coils labeled "Ignition" and 1 labeled "Lighting", and the other type looks more like 6 spokes of a wheel, and theres a crank trigger sensor or hall sensor at the bottom. that's what this bike has.

I pulled the plug and the fire is VERY VERY weak. So weak in fact I sprayed the plug with ether and it didn't pop when I cranked the bike over.

Anyway I was wondering if anybody could provide any troubleshooting ideas, I'm sort of stumped.

Also if you know anything about these types of bikes there's two major different ignition systems, this one has the CDI with 1 six pin connector that uses 5 positions, only the middle position on the bottom of the connector isn't used.

I know this is a shot in the dark, I know this is a Kawasaki forum, I've just read Honda clone stuff till my eyes are crossed and can't make any headway so I'm hoping somebody here can point me to a good clear troubleshooting guide or pass on some knowledge.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Specifically what I am looking for is how to test the stator, What Ohms from lead to lead, How many V.A.C. would be normal, How to test the rectifier and CDI box possibly, I keep finding home made wiring diagrams but not really any information or troubleshooting or test values to go from :(
 

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stator? rectifier? does this pit bike have a battery and electric starter?

If the bike wouldn't start after he dropped it the fix should be fairly simple, I'd look into ignition cut off switches, wires, and stuff and I'd also look into fuel delivery, emptied/spilled carb bowl, flooded cylinder.

As for your ether deal, one has to remember that while gasoline and also ether are flammable neither ignites/explodes/pops in pure liquid form. Such to say a wet plug will not ignite well if at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
stator? rectifier? does this pit bike have a battery and electric starter?

If the bike wouldn't start after he dropped it the fix should be fairly simple, I'd look into ignition cut off switches, wires, and stuff and I'd also look into fuel delivery, emptied/spilled carb bowl, flooded cylinder.

As for your ether deal, one has to remember that while gasoline and also ether are flammable neither ignites/explodes/pops in pure liquid form. Such to say a wet plug will not ignite well if at all.
it used to have a starter and battery but the bendix stuck so they took it off. its been that way for a few years.

I checked all the switches with a multi-meter and they're fine.
 

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Also if you know anything about these types of bikes there's two major different ignition systems, this one has the CDI with 1 six pin connector that uses 5 positions, only the middle position on the bottom of the connector isn't used.
That's odd, the one offical looking wiring diagram I did find shows 6 pins on the electronic ignition (likely not a CDI unit) and they are all used. 2 wires for the ignition pickup, 1 ground, 1 power feed from a stator leg, 1 output to the coil, and 1 kill-when-grounded.

Specifically what I am looking for is how to test the stator, What Ohms from lead to lead, How many V.A.C. would be normal, How to test the rectifier and CDI box possibly, I keep finding home made wiring diagrams but not really any information or troubleshooting or test values to go from :(
Ohms suck for actual functional testing, you can check to see if any of the stator windings show significantly different resistance, an open load voltage of 20VAC or better be would good but that test requires a running bike. The rectifier/regulator is only for charging the battery and running turn signals, brake lights, and the horn so no need for checking it.

I'd check to see what kind of ignition power pulse your getting at the ignition coil and going from there. Actually, I'd try spraying the intake with ether but that's my preference.
 
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