Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
421 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
New Question: Front sprocket nut won't budge

I just ordered this Renthal R3-2 chain because the site lists it for my 08 650R. But now every other site I look at lists this as an off-road chain for dirtbikes. Is this gonna work? I need my baby back on the road as soon as possible because I need it for transportation.

I also ordered this front sprocket and this rear sprocket, 46/15 same as factory.


New question in post #9
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,081 Posts
Well your sprockets are right, but I wouldnt put a clip style on my 650. Riveted only.
I would have gone for EK, DID or an RK chain (RK is on mine right now).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
421 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So this would be a better choice? I don't see how to tell if it is clip or riveted, besides the fact that the first one I linked has a picture of the clip. Does riveted require extra tools?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,081 Posts
Yea I would say that is the better choice. Riveted does need an extra tool to push out the tips of the master link rod. Someone here might have another way to do it, but Ive only ever used the RK riveting tool lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,288 Posts
Clip links are nowhere near as bad as people think. On a relatively low pwered bike like the 650 a properly clip link is OK. Make sure that the blind end of the clip faces in the direction of chain travel and that its snugged down properly.

If you've already ordered the chain, use it until it's worn out then replace it with one of the chains mentioned. You can also get a rivet link for that chain to replace the clip if it really worries you.

Rob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,081 Posts
650 isnt that low powered. I wouldnt use it on anything over 400 for the street. Plus why use an inferior product when a riveted master is basically the same price? :dunno:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,288 Posts
Wire the clip rather than use things like JB weld.

I agree with buying a rivet link when you buy a chain, but if you've ended up with a clip link or want to avoid the slight expense of a riveting tool there's no real reason not to use it.

Rob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
421 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
NEW QUESTION:

WTF is the trick to getting this front sprocket nut off? I got the 27mm socket and a breaker bar, no luck. Next I tried a 3ft. bar onto that and heated the nut with a torch, still would not budge one bit. I did make sure to flatten the washer that locks it, and running a finger along the thread it doesn't feel like its reverse threaded. My next step is to rent a pneumatic impact wrench. None of the local shops would help me out.
 

·
That Fighter Guy
Joined
·
15,175 Posts
The front sprocket nut is a real bitch, man. I used a steel bar wrapped in a T-shirt, stuck it in the spokes of my back wheel, and popped mine free with a breaker bar and a vein protruding from my forehead. LOL. If you can rent an impact gun and air compressor, then this is your best choice. Make damn sure that lock washer is completely flat all around and hit that nut with the impact. You may need a buddy to sit on the bike with the rear brake mashed down to help hold the wheel still, or you can use the T-shirt wrapped bar in the spokes method. And no, they are not reverse threaded, just a real bitch to get off sometimes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
421 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks. Yeah I was on the brakes with a friend on the breaker bar. We did stick a screwdriver in between the rear sprocket and swingarm, didn't take long for that to bend and fall out. Why, Kawasaki factory, why?
 

·
That Fighter Guy
Joined
·
15,175 Posts
I have a bar I bought from Home Depot for like $10 I think. Over in the hardware section where you can get metal rods for fences and shit like that. I bought the rod originally as a damping rod holder for my ZZR forks, but it served very well in holding that rear wheel stationary. It's a 3/4" steel bar that's like 3 feet long. I have a pic, let me find it.
 

·
That Fighter Guy
Joined
·
15,175 Posts
Here we go:


 
  • Like
Reactions: The_Punisher

·
Registered
Joined
·
421 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I don't need to worry about that bending my swingarm?
 

·
That Fighter Guy
Joined
·
15,175 Posts
I don't need to worry about that bending my swingarm?
Nah man, not at all. I wrapped it up with a T-shirt (some use a towl) to prevent it from scratching, but it didn't harm the swingarm at all.

I wouldn't tell you to do something knowing it could be detrimental to your bike. That's not how I roll. :thumbup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,288 Posts
Lock the wheel by pusing something through it - a piece of 2x4 or a metal bar wrapped with rag.

Use a hammer to belt the socket down on to the nut - that makes sure that the washer is completely flattened. Do that before using an inpact wrench. If you don't have an impact wrench a long breaker bar does the job - eventually.

Rob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
358 Posts
Lock the wheel by pusing something through it - a piece of 2x4 or a metal bar wrapped with rag.

Use a hammer to belt the socket down on to the nut - that makes sure that the washer is completely flattened. Do that before using an inpact wrench. If you don't have an impact wrench a long breaker bar does the job - eventually.

Rob
Was looking for these words before posting it myself. Remember, there's a splined locking washer on there. Gotta flatten it out before that nut is going to move- that's the whole point of the lock washer!
Having removed hub nuts from cars to replace half-shafts, I already had a nice big breaker when I replaced my front sprocket. I also put a 2x4 between the wheel spokes to keep the wheel from turning. Worked great.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top