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ok, im a little late. finally decided to get around to it today cuz it was warm. i read all the posts on it and how everyone said they noticed a difference. i noticed no difference what so ever. a real disappointment. can this mod have an effect on a 2002 model? i did everything perfect according to the pics and descriptions found under "free power" search. i have no mods otherwise, maybe thats why.
 

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All it really did for my '95 was smooth out the popping I was getting from a modified pipe, and a seat of the pants confirmed slight increase in midrange. It is hard for me to even be sure about the power increase, because I had recently put on a different sprocket also. I was just happy to get some of that crap out of the way and have a smoother running bike.
 

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Josh you have to take claims about power increases with a grain of salt. The placebo effect is very powerful.

I did the sucker PAIR mod on mine because the guys at Factory Pro said I would get a smoother mid-range if I did. That part seems to be true. As far as more horspower is concerned, if there is more it is not much.

I have only seen one before and after dyno run for the PAIR mod and it actually showed a slight horsepower decrease. But remember that two dyno runs back to back with no changes can and often do show a horsepower decrease.
 

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it's going to affect every bike differently. The pair mod is sometimes misunderstood as far as what it exactly entails. Some people just remove the KLEEN system and emissions garbage and cap everything off. Others do the above but add a hose from the crank case to the exhaust manifold. Now you may have noticed if you did it your bike is now using more air. You had to plug off two exits from your air box if you did it right. Now you bike is running more efficiently. If you have the hose from your crank case to the exhaust manifold it gives it a semi vacum affect which actually helps the bike rev up quicker and smoother. I've been having a lot of fun experimenting since my friend has an identical bike except the color.. I have green he has yellow.. yellow is obviously slower but if you overlook that they are the same. The pair mod on a bike with a slip on or stock helps smooth things out.. a pair mod on a bike with full exhaust, filter, jet, ignition advance .. yadda yadda.. helps liven it up more. They all react differently depending on what you do. The most important part is intake vs exhaust. mods work better when done together.
 

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I am willing to do this mod but know am confused on what psyclone said. Should I cap everything off or add a hose from the crank case to the exhaust manifold?
Psyclone-
can you give me a link that has the correct procedure.
Thx


Hell was full...so I came back
Friends don't let friends drive Hondas
 

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im tryin to do mine.... do i plug up all the vacuum hoses coming from the intake tubes? theres one going to the vacuum switch, 2 joined together going to the KLEEN valve, and the 4th is going somewhere... can i plug all of them up except the number one which goes to the vacuum valve which attached to the carbs? can i plug up the other 2 hoses on the valve if one is for emissions which i am removing and one goes to the top of the airbox which i have no more? my thumb is right there where the 2 hoses are i want to block off... one hose is coming from the #1 cylinder intake tube and the other is going to the carbs.. so i figure thats all i need.. or can i just hook up the vacuum line directly to the carbs and bypass the valve?
 

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I cannot recall the entire change from the pic.

Check out this bit by swjohnsey from this thread.

Originally posted by swjohnsey
I've got a '95 F1, I can help.

You will need a 5/8" T. I got one from a parts place that was made by Gates. You will also need a couple of feet of 5/8" ID heater hose. I used clear silicone sealer to plug holes in the airbox. You will also need to plug a vacuum line from the #1 carb boot. You can use a small screw or purchase a cap for it.

Take off the tank by removing the seat and the four bolts you can see. Take the petcock loose at the frame leaving it attached to the hoses. Remove the fuel line on the extreme right of the petcock as you look at it. This leads to the fuel pump. Remove the air box by taking off the lid of the airbox and then undoing the two bolt on the inside that are directly under the two plugs on the top. Now would be a good time to check and clean the airfliter if it needs it.

Up near the front of the frame you will see a little plastic "H" looking thing. That is the vacuum switch that controls the carburator bowl vent. Pull it loose. It will be going back on. The thing that it was clamped over it what will be removed. It is between the two "L" shaped hoses that come from the cam cover. Pull it out along with the 1/2" hose that goes to the air box and the small hose that goes to the #1 carb boot. Put the "T" in its place. Hook the 5/8" hose to the free end of the "T" and route it between the carb boots on #1 and #2. Hook it to the crankcase vent on top of the engine crankcase near the starter. Route this hose so there are no kinks and it doesn't interfere with anything.

Use your silicone to close up the opening in the air box that the 1/2" hose that attached to the valve we removed and also the opening where the original crankcase vent was attached. Plug the vacuum take-off on the #1 carb boot. Put everything back together. Look at you fuel filter while you are at it to see if it looks O.K.

Holler if you need more help.
He still has the bike and I have asked him for a hand.
 

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O.K. to begin with you will probably never get the bike to run quite right especially on the street without the stock airbox. That being said, on the top of the cam cover are two plates that have a molded hose coming out of them. they are attached to a vacuum controlled valve. You want to remove that thing and replace it with a 5/8" T-fitting and plug the vacuum line that controls it. On the back side of the T run some 5/8" hose to the crankcase vent that is in the top of the case near the starter. You can run the line between the carb boots on #1 and #2. The thing that was attached to the top of the vacuum switch you removed with the plastic "H" looking fitting need to stay. That controls the bowl vent. The bike won't run right without it.

Most dyno results I have seen don't show any hp increase but the engine is a little quicker to rev. It doesn't seem to do any harm.
 

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i have 4 hoses going to that plastic H. One is a the thing that goes to the airbox, one goes to the carbs, one vacuum line, and oine like with a yellow stripe on it for emissions... can i plug up the line for emissions? or should it be vented? also, since I dont have that kleen valve anymore, there was a vacuum line going to it. that vacuum line plugged into the intake tubes for the number 2 and 3 cylinders. can i plug those up or what should i do with them?
 

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since i removed the airbox, anyone know if i can plug up the vacuum lines coming from the #2,3,4 cylinders since i dont have them hooked up to anything anymore? i removed my kleen valve and stuff... lemme know.
 

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Yeah, they should be plugged. You can get a rubber cap designed for that purpose at an auto parts place or just put a screw in a piece of hose with some ATV to seal it.
 

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Here is the problem, with the airbox on at high speed the carburators are slightly pressurized. That tube pressurizes the float bowl to the same pressure so fuel isn't forced out. I'm not sure exactly how it works. I think when the engine is not runing the bowls are vented directly to the atmosphere. You will have to experiment.
 

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all the emissions hoses, can i just plug those or does something need to be vented? all the lines coming from the charcoal canister
 

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Ok, here is something to think about.when the pair hose is set as dicribed and you start your bike------ it put out a puff of blue smoke, why?? maybe it pulls oil vaper/splash from the crankcase,what does everyone think??
 
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