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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1996 ZX6R that I want to turn into a streetfighter. To do this the fairing has to go, leaving the ram-air hanging out in the breeze and looking like poo, so it has to go as well. My question is, does anyone have any info on carb setup without the ram-air installed? I'm guessing that its mostly mains and needle since the ram-air would only come into play at higher speeds when the throttle is mostly open. Any help is appreciated.
 

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I don't know how important horsepower is to you but you will be ditching a good bit of that, too. As far as jetting goes, it doesn't really effect it much. The big thing with ram air is pressurizing the bowl vent the same amount as intake air. Remember that on the dyno there is no ram air effect.
 

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FlatTop,

You'll be needing individual filter pods and a stage III jet kit or you could consider keeping the ram air and coming up with your own shortened intakes just ahead of the frame. Most systems incorporate additional lowered air velocity sections (big fat bulges in the inlet ducts) in the area under the front fairing. These enlarged ram air ducting areas are designed to have any water drop out of the air stream and not get sucked into the airbox. There is some draining provision, as well, within the airbox for water, but its not sufficient for riding in a downpour. In other words you may have to avoid riding in the rain with stub inlets in place. You should devise inlets that are the same cross-sectional area as the original duct inlets to maintain the same air pressure characteristics. The same goes for the small tubes that feed the float bowls, as Tswjohnsey was talking about. There are all sorts of considerations you'll need to be aware of when doing this.

Don't make the mistake of thinking that the Stage III and separate pods are a cakewalk either. Jetting tends to be much more difficult and riding in the wet is again a problem. Once the filter pods get wet the bike will go rich big time as the filters won't pass much air. Decisions, decisions.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
swjohnsey,

Losing the extra power the ram air provides is not important to me, this is mostly an intown play bike. The fastest I expect to go on it is typical freeway speeds in my area, 70-80 mph.
But, wouldn't Kawasaki have sized the mains and needle to take advantage of the increased airflow that ram air would provide? If they sized them for regular atmospheric intake and then crammed more air in through the ram air, it would go lean and start melting things. Or is it a function of slide lift? Is is set up so that at redline in first, where you don't get much help from the ram, the slide isn't open as much as it would be at redline in sixth where you need more fuel due to the fact you're getting more air? The difference in those two extremes is the amount of intake pressure on the underside of the slide diaphram and the amount that the needle is raised. You could be right, I may not need to rejet because its a self correcting system. Only one way to find out.

Still, has anybody out there done this? Lemme know. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Dave,

I had thought about the individual filters already, the reasoning being that if I remove part of the system, I may as well get rid of it all. Since it was all designed to work together, simply removing part of it wouldn't actually help me solve the problem. Removing it all or in part only screws it up in different ways. I would like to keep the main part of the airbox simply to have a protected air intake for those times I get caught out in the rain (I don't plan on this being a long distance bike or a daily driver, that's what my ST1100 is for.) Unless I run across someone who has done this before, I'll probably just save up my pennies and do it on the dyno, where I can get feedback on the exhaust gasses. That's probably the way to go.
 

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The ram air doesn't effect jetting much if at all. Removing or altering the air box does. If it were me I would leave the air box alone. It will work fine just feeding through the holes in the frame. I you are worried about water you can enlarge the hole in the bottom of the air box a little. I have yet to hear anything good about going to individual filters.
 

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I have been changing my 01 ZX6R into a streetfighter for a while now. I have a few more things to do and probably will always be thinking of a new thing to do for that matter. (Next is a single sided swing arm). But, I have been messing with the Ram Air issue with a mechanic friend of mine for a while now.

Basically, the point I am at now is that I have run a rubber tube from the carbs to the front of the radiator with a funnel on the end that brings air into the carbs and counteracts the ram air flow at high speeds. I was having an issue with the ram air pushing too much air into the carbs and having fuel pushed back into the tank. The bike would run super lean when I was on the freeway at speed above 6000 rpm. It would surge and buck. I took off the rubber ram air tubes tubes and it ran better. I am now playing with making the tube to the carbs larger to bring in more air, because when I ride on a windy day it looses power slightly at high speed. I am searching for a way to make the ram air tubes come back and I think it has to do with blocking part of the opening. When the full system is there it is not as direct as when just the rubber tubes are there so I think that may help.

I ride on the street and the hills with this bike mostly so I am not that concerned with what happens at 100 mph and above. I also have a 2003 GSXR 600 and it has huge top end where the Kawi is more mid range friendly as I have it set up.
 

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simple.........

The float bowl vent that goes to the ram air needs to be connceted to the air box.

If you can follow the diagram posted you will be fine......

This is how mine is and works with no issues.


I can clarify if so....

Jason
 

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Well when my 95 zx6r had no farings i rode it around without any ram ducts and it ran fine. I couldnt notice any lack of power so i think the inlet holes do a pretty good job by them selves. To back that up when I put new fairing on with no ram ducts I instantly noticed a loss of power higher in the speed range. So basicly if your bike is similar to mine you wont have any problems. As for riding in the rain, I did plenty of that and it never affected it. Possibly if it was really hosing down it wouldnt be good for it but just normal rain is fine.
PS- the sound of the ram ducts open is awsome if you dont have an aftermarket can to drown them out [8D]
 

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dude... check out the thread in the open forum... old school zx6r projects... stickied at the top of the page. scroll through the pics.. i have some of what i did. I removed my airbox and all, put on the individual pod filters with no problem. just go for it. dont keep the airbox if you are removing its snorkels. Just put the pod filters on and be done with it. no real need to jet or anything.. you probably wont feel any power loss till you get to like 90-100 mph. Im happy with my choice to run pod filters.
 

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i got a zx6r 95 and all i can say is modifying ram and or emission control can easily turn into a headache. or maybe you get lucky...but everytime you move some hose or tube or whatever, the bike acts weird and unpredictible. at different speed or revs.i even asked for info at this forum but out of 70 people reading my questions, noone realy could reply a word. that to me means very few people will realy give you a solution unless one who knows how air pressure and air flow exactly act in that ram thing and how it interact with carburator, proper mix at the altitude of your hometown. you can experiment ... and seewhat happens, good luck.
 

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if you end up using the ram air, you also need the carb balancing tubes which you can see through the mouth of the ram air......these make sure the carbs are balanced with the velocity of the intake air....without these the bike will lose some mid-range and have no top end!....
 
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