Great write-up man. Just what this carb newbie needed. Thanks.
DIY JetKit install/re-jet
Finally decided to go ahead with the in-house tuning, thought I would do this write-up while I'm at it, just in case someone else was hesitant/unsure how to go about this whole jet-kit installation and tuning, or doesnt have a FSM and not ready to drop some $$ to have a shop do it. I'm by no means an expert mechanic so feel free to comment or suggest an esier/more efficient way of doing something.
I apologize in advance for crappy pictures, digi cam is not the best in the world. Anyway here we go.
Step 1: Remove the fairings (this has been covered by Kkim in great detail in another thread)
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Step 2a: Remove the fuel tank and battery (Removing the tank has already been covered by Kkim, but I can post pix if someone wants. With the driver seat removed you should see the following. Disconnect the two diodes, unscrew the 3 screws (2 are cut off in the pic) and disconnect the headlight relay from the cover, should slide right off its rubber.
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Step 2b: Disconnecting and removing the battery. Once the cover is lifted you should see the two leads, a positive and a negative. Disconnect the negative first then the positive. Once disconnected lift up the battery.
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Step 2c: Removing the battery case. Once you lift the battery you will notice a foam pad (dampner), lift it up and you should see two screws, unscrew them and lift up the case.
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Step 3: Remove Airbox housing bolts. There two bolts holding the airbox in place, one on the left, one on the right. The one on the left side is a real pain to get to as you will see. (While you're at it remove the left bracket and screws indicated on the pic, left side only).
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Step 4: loosen carb holder clamps off of air cleaner ducts (Two screws on the left two on the right). Make sure not to unscrew all the way, because it'll be a pain to put it back together. Once loosened pull the airbox to the rear until it clears the carbs.
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Step 5: Disconnect the throttle cable and choke cable. I disconnect the choke cable once I've pulled the carbs out some, esier to get to. To remove the throttle cables loosen the locknuts on the accelerator and decellerator cables and remove them from the pulley.
Throttle cables:
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Choke cable:
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Step 6: Pull out the carbs, just have to manuever them around till they come out, be careful not to damage them. Also make sure to stuff some lint free cloth into the air ducts and the carbs to keep the dirt out. Also you will have to disconnect two hoses, one coming from the fuel tank to the carb one going from the carb and ends up not connected to anything under the driver seat, just stuffed in there. Just remember which goes where.
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Step 7: Get to the mixture screws. Frist things first, turn the carbs upside down and be careful as some fuel is still in the carbs and will leak out. To get to the screws you must first remove the cap. This is esily done by drilling a hole in each of the two caps using a 1(2)mm drill bit then using a regular drywall screw to pull the cap out. Slightly screw in the drywall screw untill the cap starts rotating with the screw then just pull on it and it'll pop right out. To adjust the screws, screw them all the way in (lean) then back them out a couple of full turns (gets richer), I set mine for 2 turns initially , been adjusting it half a turn since then, still not where I want it.
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Step 8: Replace the main jets. To get to the main jets unscrew the 4 corner screws and lift the cap. Then just use a flathead screwdriver to unscrew the main jet and replace it with a new one of desired size. Stock jet #98, I replaced mine with #102.
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Well that about covers it. To put it back together go in reverse order. Also when putting the carbs back in, make sure there is a good seal between the airbox and the carbs.
Anyway, thats about it. Feel free to ask questions, I'll do my best to answer. Again sorry for the crappy pictures and the MS Paint
.
~cheers and happy tuning.
I apologize in advance for crappy pictures, digi cam is not the best in the world. Anyway here we go.
Step 1: Remove the fairings (this has been covered by Kkim in great detail in another thread)
Step 2a: Remove the fuel tank and battery (Removing the tank has already been covered by Kkim, but I can post pix if someone wants. With the driver seat removed you should see the following. Disconnect the two diodes, unscrew the 3 screws (2 are cut off in the pic) and disconnect the headlight relay from the cover, should slide right off its rubber.
Step 2b: Disconnecting and removing the battery. Once the cover is lifted you should see the two leads, a positive and a negative. Disconnect the negative first then the positive. Once disconnected lift up the battery.
Step 2c: Removing the battery case. Once you lift the battery you will notice a foam pad (dampner), lift it up and you should see two screws, unscrew them and lift up the case.
Step 3: Remove Airbox housing bolts. There two bolts holding the airbox in place, one on the left, one on the right. The one on the left side is a real pain to get to as you will see. (While you're at it remove the left bracket and screws indicated on the pic, left side only).
------
Step 4: loosen carb holder clamps off of air cleaner ducts (Two screws on the left two on the right). Make sure not to unscrew all the way, because it'll be a pain to put it back together. Once loosened pull the airbox to the rear until it clears the carbs.
Step 5: Disconnect the throttle cable and choke cable. I disconnect the choke cable once I've pulled the carbs out some, esier to get to. To remove the throttle cables loosen the locknuts on the accelerator and decellerator cables and remove them from the pulley.
Throttle cables:
Choke cable:
Step 6: Pull out the carbs, just have to manuever them around till they come out, be careful not to damage them. Also make sure to stuff some lint free cloth into the air ducts and the carbs to keep the dirt out. Also you will have to disconnect two hoses, one coming from the fuel tank to the carb one going from the carb and ends up not connected to anything under the driver seat, just stuffed in there. Just remember which goes where.
Step 7: Get to the mixture screws. Frist things first, turn the carbs upside down and be careful as some fuel is still in the carbs and will leak out. To get to the screws you must first remove the cap. This is esily done by drilling a hole in each of the two caps using a 1(2)mm drill bit then using a regular drywall screw to pull the cap out. Slightly screw in the drywall screw untill the cap starts rotating with the screw then just pull on it and it'll pop right out. To adjust the screws, screw them all the way in (lean) then back them out a couple of full turns (gets richer), I set mine for 2 turns initially , been adjusting it half a turn since then, still not where I want it.
----
Step 8: Replace the main jets. To get to the main jets unscrew the 4 corner screws and lift the cap. Then just use a flathead screwdriver to unscrew the main jet and replace it with a new one of desired size. Stock jet #98, I replaced mine with #102.
Well that about covers it. To put it back together go in reverse order. Also when putting the carbs back in, make sure there is a good seal between the airbox and the carbs.
Anyway, thats about it. Feel free to ask questions, I'll do my best to answer. Again sorry for the crappy pictures and the MS Paint
.~cheers and happy tuning.
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Great post. +1 rep for you, man.
How did the bike feel after the rejet?? Did moving up on the main help or hurt? I've been thinking of leaving the #98 in there to start.
Thanks for taking the time to do a picture DIY post. I know how much of a PITA it is as it takes a lot of time. Just know it is appreciated.
Mahalo
ps- you are more than welcome to copy my DIY on gas tank removal and add pictures to it if you are feeling like doing so. I know other's have asked for pics to that thread, but I just don't have the time right now.
Stuck working on the "Honey-do" list this weekend.
How did the bike feel after the rejet?? Did moving up on the main help or hurt? I've been thinking of leaving the #98 in there to start.
Thanks for taking the time to do a picture DIY post. I know how much of a PITA it is as it takes a lot of time. Just know it is appreciated.
Mahalo
ps- you are more than welcome to copy my DIY on gas tank removal and add pictures to it if you are feeling like doing so. I know other's have asked for pics to that thread, but I just don't have the time right now.
Stuck working on the "Honey-do" list this weekend.
Frankly from the 5 mile run I took right afterward I didn't notice much of a difference, it had a little more pull when cold then about the same as stock when it warmed up, more testing is needed. Low end 1000-3000 RPM is definitely better than stock screw settings, but it can use a bit more, probably 3.5 on both, at least that's what I'm thinking right now. The needles I didn't mess with since the change from stock to FactoryPro, left them at #3 setting (middle) she seems to like it.
I'll be taking some time tomorrow to play around some more, will report what happens. Mainly going to be playing with idle screws. Also going to be swapping for a 15T, but that's after I get jetting under control lol.
As for the gas tank, I'll do a copy/paste and add some pix to yours, since I'll be stripping her down again tomorrow.
No point in re-writing an already detailed post.~cheers mate
Awesome job, i know i will be looking at this again when its my time to do it. how hard is it to adjust ? Do you have to take everything off until you get it right ?
how hard is it to adjust ? Do you have to take everything off until you get it right ?Yeah everything has to come out, unless you just want to adjust the idle screws, in which case you can make do with a REALLY stubby screwdriver.Awesome job, i know i will be looking at this again when its my time to do it.
Speaking of screws I just did 3.5 turns on them and she chugs hard soon as you let off the choke she dies, time to back it down to 3 or 2 3/4. Fun times.
I have these on order from harbor freight.Yeah everything has to come out, unless you just want to adjust the idle screws, in which case you can make do with a REALLY stubby screwdriver.
Speaking of screws I just did 3.5 turns on them and she chugs hard soon as you let off the choke she dies, time to back it down to 3 or 2 3/4. Fun times.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=35438
I have been seriously debating epoxying these to the idle screws so adjustments could be made simply by sticking your hand in and turning each screwdriver.
I have a similar adjustable fuel screw on my dirt bike and it has proved invaluable in tuning the off idle response.
Yeah, with those I can get to the left screw but not the right, hands too damn big.
Heh well, went for the 3rd adjustment (oh so close now) was zeroing in....well this time around figured id cheat and instead of pulling the carbs out I just pulled them loose and tilted so i could get to the screws. Put her back together, and she refuses to run w/o choke, emedietly dies with choke off and has a hard time starting again...
Pretty sure I flooded the carbs... got my work cut out for me tomorrow.
I guess if a "shortcut" wasn't problem free if would just be "THE WAY"..
Pretty sure I flooded the carbs... got my work cut out for me tomorrow.
I guess if a "shortcut" wasn't problem free if would just be "THE WAY"..
Couple ways of adjusting the mix screw's. Personally I just turn them in till the motor starts to drop rpm, then back out 1/4 turn.
Or you can adjust the idle up 500 or 1000 rpm. Then adjust screws for max rpm, then put back to stock idle.
On a third...........Never tried on a bike, but on a car you can also adjust screws for max vacuum reading.
Nice pics man! Have fun
Or you can adjust the idle up 500 or 1000 rpm. Then adjust screws for max rpm, then put back to stock idle.
On a third...........Never tried on a bike, but on a car you can also adjust screws for max vacuum reading.
Nice pics man! Have fun
I would love to be able to do that, I'll have to fab up a screwdriver tomorrow, that's smaller than the super stubby one from harbor freight should be interesting. That's the only way I'd be able to fit my hand in there.
Going to have to take the carbs out to drain anyway, do my adjustment then and attempt the above method with my homebrew screwdriver.
Thanks for the feedback, appreciate it. :cheers-004:
Just take a small piece of wood and drill the appropriate size hole in it so that you have a snug fit on one of these...
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Voila. Super, super stubby screwdriver.
Voila. Super, super stubby screwdriver.
Understand, there kinda hard to get to. I use a snap-on tool, was orignally for adjusting points in a car distributor. I grinded it down for a standard screw, it's like springyI would love to be able to do that, I'll have to fab up a screwdriver tomorrow, that's smaller than the super stubby one from harbor freight should be interesting. That's the only way I'd be able to fit my hand in there.
Going to have to take the carbs out to drain anyway, do my adjustment then and attempt the above method with my homebrew screwdriver.
Thanks for the feedback, appreciate it. :cheers-004:
Attachments
HAHA, Eric we had a good idea at the same time....I just used epoxy, should be hardened by tomorrow. Making one fixed and one that I can drop different attachments into.
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