Great write-up man. Just what this carb newbie needed. Thanks.
Frankly from the 5 mile run I took right afterward I didn't notice much of a difference, it had a little more pull when cold then about the same as stock when it warmed up, more testing is needed. Low end 1000-3000 RPM is definitely better than stock screw settings, but it can use a bit more, probably 3.5 on both, at least that's what I'm thinking right now. The needles I didn't mess with since the change from stock to FactoryPro, left them at #3 setting (middle) she seems to like it.Great post. +1 rep for you, man.
How did the bike feel after the rejet?? Did moving up on the main help or hurt? I've been thinking of leaving the #98 in there to start.
Yeah everything has to come out, unless you just want to adjust the idle screws, in which case you can make do with a REALLY stubby screwdriver.Awesome job, i know i will be looking at this again when its my time to do it. how hard is it to adjust ? Do you have to take everything off until you get it right ?
AreaP, snorkel removed, FactoryPro jet kit, #102 main jet, needle clip #3 position (middle), screws 2 turns wasn't quite there, 3.5 too much, so next up 2 3/4. Completely assembled the only thing you would need to remove would be the main side fairings, thats assuming you have a snub screwdriver or maybe a flexible screwdriver. I couldn't get my smallest screwdriver in there so last two times I took the whole thing apart pretty much.Thanks for the detailed pictured instructions. I plan to adjust the idle A/F mix some time in the future and always wondered where it was located and how to go about removing the plug. Assuming your bike is completely assembled after doing the carb tunning... what needs to be removed in order to adjust the mix screws?
Would you mind clarifying your setup? Is your snorkel still in place?
Area P exhaust, factory pro jet kit with #102 main jet, Idle screw ~2-3 turns out.
I have these on order from harbor freight.Yeah everything has to come out, unless you just want to adjust the idle screws, in which case you can make do with a REALLY stubby screwdriver.
Speaking of screws I just did 3.5 turns on them and she chugs hard soon as you let off the choke she dies, time to back it down to 3 or 2 3/4. Fun times.
I would love to be able to do that, I'll have to fab up a screwdriver tomorrow, that's smaller than the super stubby one from harbor freight should be interesting. That's the only way I'd be able to fit my hand in there.Couple ways of adjusting the mix screw's. Personally I just turn them in till the motor starts to drop rpm, then back out 1/4 turn.
Understand, there kinda hard to get to. I use a snap-on tool, was orignally for adjusting points in a car distributor. I grinded it down for a standard screw, it's like springyI would love to be able to do that, I'll have to fab up a screwdriver tomorrow, that's smaller than the super stubby one from harbor freight should be interesting. That's the only way I'd be able to fit my hand in there.
Going to have to take the carbs out to drain anyway, do my adjustment then and attempt the above method with my homebrew screwdriver.
Thanks for the feedback, appreciate it. :cheers-004: