Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums banner

1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
22,797 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
People have done it and it's a good idea, but I haven't seen any pictures let alone a DIY on how to move the rear brake reservoir. This mainly applies to those who have removed the air filter box as I don't know how well the rear brake reservoir fits underneath the seat with that monstrosity there! So anywho here is how I relocated my rear brake reservoir (individual results may not be as AWESOME) :D.

Step 1: Open the brake reservoir to allow the fluid to drain easily. Note: There IS a little hold down you have to unscrew (you can barely see it flipped up above the mounting spot for the reservoir). Make sure to... Flip that up!



Step 2: Drain the brake fluid. To do this the easiest and most efficient way I used a handheld vacuum pump...

Open the bleeder valve and just pump away.

Step 3: Remove the brake reservoir. Use a rag so remnant brake fluid doesn't find it's way out. Then plug both the hose and reservoir so while you're working nothing gets in there!



Step 4: With the sides opened up you can see a good spot to run the hose through. I was tempted to just go around the bottom of the mud flap, but there would be no support of the hose that and it runs near the rear shock. I opted for the shiny round spot on the mud flap! :D



Step 5: Drill a pilot hole. In the never-ending usefulness of the Milwaukee offset screwdriver I used that to drill the pilot hole ;).



Step 6: Enlarge the hole to about 3/4". I was going to use a grommet, but there's a rubber sleeve around the hose and plastic isn't usually risky to run hoses and wires through, so I opted out of using a grommet.

Notice you can see the grommet I was going to use before I figured it'd be silly :p

Step 7: Run the hose through and notice that the elbow on the master cylinder rotates (It's supposed to). I rotated mine down and ran the hose around and up through the mudflap.



Step 8: To make the bracket for the reservoir I opted to make a bracket and mount it to the battery box. I used a simple piece of flat aluminum (1" x 1/8" thick) and cut it about 3 inches down.

Afterwards I rounded the corners and filed it smooth.

Step 9: Remove the battery by first (with the seat removed obviously) lifting the upper plastic piece.

There's one relay hanging on this piece and one screw holding it down.

Step 10: Remove the battery :p I always point out when disconnecting batteries ALWAYS remove the negative end first. That way the frame is no longer (-) charged.



Step 11: The whole battery box has to come out. This is pretty easy to do. There's one more relay hanging on the box and two screws underneath the batteries pad:


Step 12: I used two 10-32 beveled screws to hold the mount to the battery box. This way the screws can be countersunk into the battery box so the screw heads don't really rub against the battery inside the box.



Step 13: With the battery box out I drilled two offset holes through the aluminum bracket and into the battery box. INSIDE the battery box I beveled the screw holes so the screws countersink and the battery is none the wiser there's screws there.

Note that I always throw blue loc-tite on threaded stuffs. A noble idea!

Step 14: I held the reservoir up to the bracket on the side that's 'hanging out' and drilled a hole to mount the reservoir to. I didn't get a picture of it (whoops), but it's not too crazy a concept :p . You can re-use the original screw that mounted the reservoir (I did) and put a 6mm x 1.0 pitch nut on the backside, or if you have a tap kit (the way I did it) just tap the hole and everything looks ++.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
22,797 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
And finished up:

Step 15: Drop everything back in and hook everything back up. You need to shorten the hose to the reservoir. After you hook it back up it should look like this:



It's hard to see, but everything is nice and compact now.


To refill the brakes, use DOT4 brake fluid, fill up the reservoir and let it sit for a minute or two (to clear the bubbles) and flush the brakes (open the bleeder, attach a section of hose and pump the brakes or use a vacuum pump until brake fluid starts coming out of the attached hose). Usually you have to do this more than once as little bubbles settle :p
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
233 Posts
Damn this rep system! We need more intelligent and helpful posters here so I can "spread" the rep around. I never have the ability to rep the people like you, kkim and the very few others.
Well, the intention was there at least.

Great write up, I've really been considering doing this since that thing sticks out like a sore thumb.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
647 Posts
your tires look hella bran new. how many miles on your bike. also where did you get ur rim tape?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,621 Posts
Good stuff, Vex. It's about time one of us got off our lazy asses and did this.. and it wasn't gonna be me. :p
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
22,797 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
your tires look hella bran new. how many miles on your bike. also where did you get ur rim tape?
:confused::confused: There's 6,500 miles on those tires :D. Look closely you can see the chicken strips and all (albeit only like 1/2"). The rim tape is from an eBay store. It was like $15.00 total. It's a ridiculously good match to the paint on the bike. It's hard to get pics though as any flash makes them 'reflective' :)

Yeah and thanks kkim. It came together easier than other things. After I had the reservoir off I just held it next to the battery box and kicked myself. I was wayyyy overthinking it earlier :p.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
475 Posts
Um, why not just remove that damn thing all together? Replace with it with a capped 6" clear tube. Zip tie to exhaust hanger. Done. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,090 Posts
I HEART you Vex!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
647 Posts
:confused::confused: There's 6,500 miles on those tires :D. Look closely you can see the chicken strips and all (albeit only like 1/2"). The rim tape is from an eBay store. It was like $15.00 total. It's a ridiculously good match to the paint on the bike. It's hard to get pics though as any flash makes them 'reflective' :)

Yeah and thanks kkim. It came together easier than other things. After I had the reservoir off I just held it next to the battery box and kicked myself. I was wayyyy overthinking it earlier :p.

thats why i had to ask. i havent seen any other color match as well. Do you have the seller name by any chance.

And as far as the tires go i dont know if its just the pics of what but they look new.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
22,797 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Um, why not just remove that damn thing all together? Replace with it with a capped 6" clear tube. Zip tie to exhaust hanger. Done. :)
I would most def. do that if this was a track bike. I like having things look natural while I'm strolling around town :p Hell If this was a track bike I probably would've yanked the rear brakes and taken the passenger pegs, etc.

I HEART you Vex!!
Thanks! I love getting hearted :D
thats why i had to ask. i havent seen any other color match as well. Do you have the seller name by any chance.

And as far as the tires go i dont know if its just the pics of what but they look new.
Hell even the centers of the tires are starting to flatten out. Oh well I sent you a PM with the eBay seller!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
692 Posts
Nice Vex!! That looks great!! Good job man.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
Thanx for finally doing this Vex. You did a great write up and a professional job. I would like to point out as well that the airbox does not have to be removed. Although I do believe your method is king, it is more work to replace the filter and jet the carbs. Also after reliving the experience through your posts, I got around to taking those pics of under the seat so those interested can see the mod with stock airbox. Oh, and please excuse the dirtyness .:eek:.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
22,797 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Thanx for finally doing this Vex. You did a great write up and a professional job. I would like to point out as well that the airbox does not have to be removed. Although I do believe your method is king, it is more work to replace the filter and jet the carbs. Also after reliving the experience through your posts, I got around to taking those pics of under the seat so those interested can see the mod with stock airbox. Oh, and please excuse the dirtyness .:eek:.
Nice! I figured you could make do with the air filter box in there, but didn't have to worry about it :D. On the flip side the area where you put your reservoir I have lots of crap cluttering that space :Laughing rolling:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
154 Posts
Is the small bracket that the reservoir originally mounts to welded to the frame near the exhaust hanger holes or can that be removed also? You can see this little bracket in the top left corner of Ninjamints 1st pic posted 2 above me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,621 Posts
Chop, grind & paint baby! :D
it actually doesn't look as bad as in ninjamint's picture. He has no hanger at all which makes it a lot more visible than if there were a bracket or hanger in front of it. Take a look a t Vex's picture for comparison.

Besides.. if you ever would want to put the reservoir back (for some reason), you couldn't.
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top