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It mentions in my manual to move the rear tire and then check the chain slack, and that it should be 35-40mm. If I move the tire forward, doesn't that take up all of the slack, in which case it will always be less than 40mm no matter how loose the chain is?
It seems like this method would measure the amount of tension you are holding on the rear tire as opposed to how much slack you have. Am I reading it wrong, or am I just being stupid?
 

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no. your chain over time, stretches. The only way to take up the slack from it stretching, is to increase the distance from the two ends, as in, you have to move the rear wheel back.

The tension should always be measured at the tightest spot on the chain too. So get the back wheel in the air so it can freely spin, and move it by hand a couple of full rotations, checking the slack. Then when you've found the tightest spot, adjust the chain to that point.

Also when you're moving the adjuster bolts on the blocks, make sure you make even adjustments to both sides of the axle. And rarely are the notches accurate. Measure the amount of thread showing is even on both sides before tightening.
 

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It mentions in my manual to move the rear tire and then check the chain slack, and that it should be 35-40mm. If I move the tire forward, doesn't that take up all of the slack, in which case it will always be less than 40mm no matter how loose the chain is?
It seems like this method would measure the amount of tension you are holding on the rear tire as opposed to how much slack you have. Am I reading it wrong, or am I just being stupid?
You're moving the wheel the wrong way; they mean to move it so that your measuring at the MAXIMUM slack point (least tension).

WHEW! You had me rethinking it there for a moment :rolleyes:
 

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So I think it's way loose then. No more riding until it's back within spec.
I've seen some really piss-poor maintenance on chain adjustment, and people are still riding. As long as it's not excessive, you should be ok until you can get to adjust it, but don't leave it too long.

An excessive amount of slack can cause the chain to catch teeth on sprockets, taking them off, and way too much can cause the chain to jump off, but you need a good few inches of slack before that can happen. Don't stress the second it goes over 'spec', but re-reading what you say again, 35-40mm is actually quite a lot imo. I've always kept mine around 25mm/1", and that's what I've always been told..

It'll get to a point where it'll stop stretching too, so nearer to then, adjustments will be less frequent
 

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It's important to note that too tight a chain is as bad as too loose - a tight chain will wear itself and the sprockets out much faster, develop tight spots, and be at much higher risk of breaking (that's a very BAD thing).
 

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Is it bad if the chain touches the swingarm?

I couldn't believe someone had to ask me that, when they did. I was :Laughing rolling:when I took a look and it actually touched.
It's only a problem if it occasionally touches, right? Don't you want constant friction to maximize power transfer to the rear wheel? ;)
 

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The chain should NOT touch the swingarm. Have you guys READ the manual?

THe MX & dirtbikes are a different story, and have chain guides to prevent wearing the swingarm....but a streetbike's swingarm should NEVER have the chain touching.
 

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The chain should NOT touch the swingarm. Have you guys READ the manual?

THe MX & dirtbikes are a different story, and have chain guides to prevent wearing the swingarm....but a streetbike's swingarm should NEVER have the chain touching.
Manual, what's that? Oh wait I think I heard of those. I'm from the "who the hell needs a manual" generation though. Never needed to read any stinkin manual :D
 
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