[ezrollin]

I drew this but I'm sure its not 100% correct.
WhiteHendrix gave me info / ideas. Thanks WH

I'm trying to troubleshoot aka "Hot Wire" my ignition system. I'm pretty sure its my key-lock cylinder. It has been doing the same thing for a long time. You put the key in, turn it to run, and NOTHING! No dash lights! But if you turn the key ALL the way counter-clockwise and lock the handlebars the brake light comes on. HMMMMMMM......... now that I think about it, it sounds like my white and brown wires are not connecting!!

If I jump white + brown together the ignition system and dash lights will Always be on correct? I would need a switch.

I will also need to connect the white wire (12 volt positive) to around a ~100 ohm resistor then to my grey wire but of course will need a electrical button.

Sorry if I have offended anyone for saying "hot wire" as we all hate thieves (and bikes that are bitches )

 

[ezrollin]

"I/C Igniter aka ECU" which is under the seat is not the same as the "Junction Box" correct??? Where is it?

 

[ezrollin]

Update: ALL I did was I jumped those mofuggin white and brown wires together. The dash lights came on but when I pushed that there start button it didnt fire.
BUT the jumped white + brown wires got HOTTT... Why?
thanks

 

[whitehendrix]

lol.. the junction box is under the seat behind the battery, facing up. yes, you'll need a switch for the rest of the bike, as tthose white and brown wires are main power wires..

thinkin on the heating of the wires.. i mean, the DO get kinda warm, but shouldn't get like kick-your-ass hot.. they shouldn't even GET warm tho, in all actuality.. those wires should be about a gauge of 2 heavier, IMO...

and i think, (like i said in the pm..) that i got 98 ohms, BUT the resistors they use are the cheapy ones.. moderately low tolerance.. i'd guess 10% on the value.. i can't remember the bands that were on the resistor in mine.. i think the last one was gold, and if i'm not mistaken, gold denotes a +/- 10% deviance from value anyway.. so, as long as ya get something at or uber close to 100 ohms, you'll be golden. (no pun..)

i'm sure the not canking thing isn't a 6V supply problem.. that wire goes only to the ECU, and the ECU has NO say on whether the bike can or will crank.. therefore, you can cut theat wire, and the bike will still crank.. i'd start lookin at other things like switches.. i think we went thru this once already a few months ago? tryin to remember..lol

anything else ya need homie, post up!!

 

[ezrollin]

ok, so I spliced All the wires together except for the 6v positive GREY out.
yes, white, brown, red, blue(?) All together

My "HEAD" 10Amp fuse blew lol
I am thinking my GREY 6v positive out wire is not sending 6v out.

Whenever I hook up the Brown and White wires it gets so hot I see smoke come off!!
thanks

 

[whitehendrix]

sounds like a dead short in the system homey.. or at least in the headlight circuit.. that could be pulling enough current away to drop the 6V to 5 or 4 or less..

i'd meter the main shit now.. make sure you're not dealing with a bad short to ground.. i mean, i'd meter the resistor also.. i dunno.. it's tough to kinda remotely diagnose and guide on electrical stuff.. easier said than done i think..lol

uhh... since i'm kinda shotty on getting online, just call any time man.. i'll gladly walk ya thru anything ya need in real time.. in the mean time, i can get some pics and numbers and stuff since my entire harness isn't even on my bike now, so it's pretty easy to see everything in the system, and how its laid out and all..

thos wires DEFINITELY should NOT get crispy hot, especially just by being hooked up.. mighta melted the contact block in the keyswitch, and/or a trace in the junction box.

anyway, any time.. literally man.. 304-283-1613

 

[ezrollin]

battery power is still the same, even with red hooked to red and blue hooked to blue (lights). hasnt drained or anything.

Those white and brown wires get HOTT IMMEDIATELY when you hook them up! ONE of them Must be grounded!!!
Sorry I havent been doing much work on it. My girlfriend keeps me REAL busy and the bike is over at my friends house for some reason.


That must suck having to take your harness off and reattach. I feel for ya man

So the bike will NOT start unless blue and red are hooked up?

 

[rilusi]

hmm

just a guess but sometimes the connecter get loose..the wire connectors are still plugeed to gether but the wires themselves push out the back side..check to make sure the wires are pushed all the way into the back of the plugs(white-or black plastic wire block connectors) on the harness..
i have had this happen before..

 

[whitehendrix]

red and blue are just for lighting. one of those wires (i think the brown) is a feed back to the junction/fuse box and power is then distributed to everything from then on out.

i've forgotten what exactly the red and blue feed, but i KNOW for 100% fact its lighting related. the gray is the only wire (other than main power) that will inhibit starting.. and itf that happens, it won't even crank. at least with the 6V feed gone, it'll crank.. it just won't have spark.

i'll be puttin my harness back in, as i've finished polishing my frame now..lol.. and 4 cans of brakleen ater, i can tell what color my motor is.. so, it's time to rebuild!

 

[whitehendrix]

i don't know how well this pic will work.. it better tho.. i spent a good bit of time squinting at this bitch! chances are, i you squint hard enough, you'll see what i'm sayin too..lol

 

[davewaibel]

check wiring on left side lower, near exhaust, this wire easily gets pinched, and melts into a dead short, also the ignition connector (6pin) I think, melts easily when shorted and faults there as well. As far as anti theft wire, it will not keep bike from cranking- only keeps ignitor from sending spark to plugs. Go to Ronayers.com and start with a new ignition switch, and go from there. Once these things get tweaked, they are never the same, and you do not want a tijuana wiring job on your bike-

 

[ezrollin]

hey whitehendrix! that picture looks REALLY interesting!
Do you have a better version of it? Can you upload it as a BMP?
Cant read it
Thanks alot!

 

[ezrollin]

hey white hendrix.
I spoke with an electrician on www.the12volt.com and he said that due to load on the battery that when using resistors to change 12v DC to 6v DC it wont always stay at exactly 6v DC (because of load). Also the current would change.
page: 1
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~106959~PN~0~TPN~1

 

[ezrollin]

I created a badass voltage regulator using an LM317T. Hopefully this will resolve my issues.