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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

I just bought a second hand ER-6 and after just 250 miles of vicious riding the engine failed me. There was literally zero oil left when I checked - obviously it was too late then. Not sure what caused the ridiculous oil consumption. Anyway, now looking for a spare engine.

On eBay I found a few 2009-2011 engines, however my model is a 2013 model. Does anyone know if the older engines also fit in the newer model (2009-11 engine number: ER650AEA77695, my engine number: ER650AEAE37**).

I checked Kawasaki Europe and it seems like even for the 2013 model the engine numbers range from ER650AEA00000-999999 (see attached). I'm just a bit confused because there is an additional letter in my (existing/broken) engine number....

139152


Any help or experience is much appreciated. Also obviously if you have a fitting motor or you know someone that would be helpful too.

Regards
Roman
 

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Hi all,

I just bought a second hand ER-6 and after just 250 miles of vicious riding the engine failed me. There was literally zero oil left when I checked - obviously it was too late then. Not sure what caused the ridiculous oil consumption. Anyway, now looking for a spare engine.

On eBay I found a few 2009-2011 engines, however my model is a 2013 model. Does anyone know if the older engines also fit in the newer model (2009-11 engine number: ER650AEA77695, my engine number: ER650AEAE37**).

I checked Kawasaki Europe and it seems like even for the 2013 model the engine numbers range from ER650AEA00000-999999 (see attached). I'm just a bit confused because there is an additional letter in my (existing/broken) engine number....

View attachment 139152

Any help or experience is much appreciated. Also obviously if you have a fitting motor or you know someone that would be helpful too.

Regards
Roman
Yes, the engine is practically identical for ALL years of ER6/Ninja 650s. You can even mount Versys engine provided you got the ECU tune for it. 2009-2016 it's almost identical though. In 2017 they went from 38mm Keihin throttle bodies to 36mm ones and reduced compression from 11.3:1 to 10.8:1 but i'm not sure if that's piston design or something else but even so the engine block itself remained virtually identical.
 

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Thanks for your quick answer @Antares
Let's hope for better luck with the next engine then :cool:
Well, it's all anecdotes and whatnot but mine has 50k miles on it, and was running remarkably well even when it needed valve adjustments at 40k. It's had it's fair share of abuse, oil fill plug flying out, Full system with no tune for a lengthy time, lots of cold starts in the winter. That sort of stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, it's all anecdotes and whatnot but mine has 50k miles on it, and was running remarkably well even when it needed valve adjustments at 40k. It's had it's fair share of abuse, oil fill plug flying out, Full system with no tune for a lengthy time, lots of cold starts in the winter. That sort of stuff.
I bought the bike because I thought they are super solid and fun to ride. I have a couple of larger bikes as well, but wanted something light. Bike was in a mint condition, the previous owner was meticulous about everything. He fitted WP shocks in the rear, and a ZX10R fork in the front, including wheels, breaks and everything. Also LSL footpegs and so on. Super fun to ride that little thing. But... I suppose something must have gone wrong. After just 250-300 miles the engine just got super loud, that mechanical loud noise that you never want to hear, and that was the end of it. I checked and there was no oil spill anywhere. The engine was completely clean all around. But the oil was gone. Hmmm ... Welll... let's hope for more luck with the next one I suppose. And check the oil every 100 miles :rolleyes:
 

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I bought the bike because I thought they are super solid and fun to ride. I have a couple of larger bikes as well, but wanted something light. Bike was in a mint condition, the previous owner was meticulous about everything. He fitted WP shocks in the rear, and a ZX10R fork in the front, including wheels, breaks and everything. Also LSL footpegs and so on. Super fun to ride that little thing. But... I suppose something must have gone wrong. After just 250-300 miles the engine just got super loud, that mechanical loud noise that you never want to hear, and that was the end of it. I checked and there was no oil spill anywhere. The engine was completely clean all around. But the oil was gone. Hmmm ... Welll... let's hope for more luck with the next one I suppose. And check the oil every 100 miles :rolleyes:
Hmm that is odd indeed, mine eats a tiny bit of oil, but absolutely nothing unusual, I need to fill about 2-300ml to fill it back up from low to just above the middle of the marks, but that's only once every 2000 miles or so. Probably mostly from cold starts as I used to commute a lot on it.
 

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Didn't you smell anything? No huge plume of blue smoke?

Burning almost two liters of oil certainly won't go unnoticed. This sounds like sabotage!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Didn't you smell anything? No huge plume of blue smoke?

Burning almost two liters of oil certainly won't go unnoticed. This sounds like sabotage!
I noticed nothing.... bike didn't smell... nothing. I bought the bike and drove home, probably 200 miles (it was ice cold outside). Then two weeks ago took it for a little spin (was hot outside) and then after 50 miles it happened. I spoke to the previous owner (who had several bikes in pristine condition) and he said he checked the oil before I picked the bike up. I didn't check the oil at any stage. So... yeah. Hard to say when/what happened. But as you say, this is really weird. Even if you burn 2 litres of oil slowly over 250 miles you would smell something or see something. Maybe I should have another word with the seller.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
One more thing that comes to my mind: After the engine broke, I noticed the oil light coming on in the dash board. So... it works. But I'm almost certain it hasn't lit up before. So there must have been some oil pressure I assume.
 

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One more thing that comes to my mind: After the engine broke, I noticed the oil light coming on in the dash board. So... it works. But I'm almost certain it hasn't lit up before. So there must have been some oil pressure I assume.
how much oil actually came out? just wondering cos the oil pressure light should warn you WELL before the oil gets too low (mine very rarely comes on momentarily if the oil is near the low mark and I brake really hard as the oil sloshes forward in the sump). What actually happened to the engine? if you're looking at a replacement either way, maybe it's salvageable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
how much oil actually came out? just wondering cos the oil pressure light should warn you WELL before the oil gets too low (mine very rarely comes on momentarily if the oil is near the low mark and I brake really hard as the oil sloshes forward in the sump). What actually happened to the engine? if you're looking at a replacement either way, maybe it's salvageable.
I don't have the exact details of the engine damage yet. I have a motor expert looking at it... He just said there is literally no oil in there and several bearings are damaged - at least. He said he stopped looking and it will be certainly cheaper to get a replacement engine. I will take the existing engine further apart later on... but first want to fix the bike to make it ridable again. When the incident happened I checked the oil and was only able to see a tiny little bit of oil in the window when I had the bike at 60 degree lean angle (roughly). So I would guesstimate if the total oil volume should be 2 litres, then maybe there was 300ml left or so. But that's a wild guess without measuring and without knowing the bike very well.
 

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My guess would be that either somebody drained most of the oil before the final ride and the oil indicator was indecisive or that the bike was dramatically low on oil to begin with or that most of the oil was jettisoned out of the engine the moment the oil indicator illuminated on the dash. Motor oil is specifically designed not to easily burn in high temperatures and how such a large amount oil suddenly disappeared is baffling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
@Antares would you happen to know if the small changes between 2011 and 2012 would cause any trouble if trying to fit in a 2011 engine in a 2013 bike? I just found this website (here) and there seems to be a change of the engine setup from 2012 onwards....
 

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@Antares would you happen to know if the small changes between 2011 and 2012 would cause any trouble if trying to fit in a 2011 engine in a 2013 bike? I just found this website (here) and there seems to be a change of the engine setup from 2012 onwards....
The engine is 100% identical between 11 and 13. The frame changed and therefore the motor mounts too but I believe the engine mounting holes are in the same place and it's the motor mount bracketry that conformed for newer models. I'd definitely do a visual inspection though but if any year, 09-11 and 12-16 are the closest in terms of engine design. The 06-08s and the 17+ are all identical too but have different covers and slight internal changes. I'm not 1 billion percent sure on this but I've seen a few examples of cross generation engine swaps.
 

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I bought the bike because I thought they are super solid and fun to ride. I have a couple of larger bikes as well, but wanted something light.
It is very reliable normally, unless they have a manufacturing fault 60k miles/100k km is not at all unreasonable, I'm almost there on mine and it's prime health for it's age.
 

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I just remembered another detail the CFMoto 650 literally has an ER6 engine rebadged, might be worth a quick look if they are cheap brand new.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I just remembered another detail the CFMoto 650 literally has an ER6 engine rebadged, might be worth a quick look if they are cheap brand new.
Interesting. Thank you. Never heard of the bike/brand. They are really dirt cheap 🙈🙉
 
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