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Discussion Starter #1
Hi!

I recently brought a Kawasaki ER-6F 2007 EFI bike. No PC, stock muffler, ect.

From the firs ride, the bike keeps stalling when i slowing down and pull in the clutch. Sometimes the rpm drops slowly, and stops on idle, another time it falls quickly to 0 rpm and engine stalls.
Then it is hard to start, have to bip the throttle a little and engine fires. Cold engine starts fine, revs on 2000-2200 rpm, warm idle also fine and stable, 1350-1400 rpm. Bike runs smooth, throttle response is quick. No FI error. Bike die on deceleration, after clutch pulled in. Also stall, if i downshift and hold clutch in a long time and let the rpm drop.

Mine does exactly as in this video:

I checked side stand switch, clutch switch, changed air filter, spark plugs, did throttle body clean and sync, searched for leaks in air inlet. Adjusted clutch, and throttle cable. Checked strator, rectifier and changed the battery. Fuel pump also works well. Adjusted STP sensor. Nothing helped. I have no idea what cause this issue. Please help! Thanks!
 

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I'd first retrieve any stored trouble codes. In any event, an electronic fuel control issue of some sort IMHO.
Perhaps the service manual contains testing procedure for each fuel system sensor and controller valves using digital multimeter.

Loose, crimped hoses on MAP sensor very common, too. This frequently happens when tank is R&R (removed and replaced). Should inspect for any loose electrical connectors "under the hood" (aka fuel tank) as well.

Anyways, some food for thought. You need to dig in, do some research and score a real deal Kaw manual applicable to your specific year and model! A must have for fuel/electronic issues going forward.

On a carbed bike, I'd urge you to simply check vacuum hoses, fuel levels, etc.....FI bikes require some electronic diagnostics...why the manual is SO important. Oh, you'll no doubt need a multimeter too, following the troubleshooting section in your book to retrieve a diagnostic path.

Edit: you've checked for codes, none. I'd then urge to backtrack all your work.
Adjusted STP sensor? I think you mean TPS (throttle position sensor)...double triple check your work right there.
 

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Food for thought additional stuff....you just acquired.....how old is fuel? Any presence of water?
If you haven't already....purge the fuel...add fresh with an ethanol treatment/stabilizer type additive. Fuel today "separates" in alarmingly short periods.

Also check integrity of clutch switch, terminals, connector and associated wiring. Some clutch switches (late model Honda and Suzuki for example) double as "throttle assist" switches....actually raising RPM a prescribed amount when clutch pulled....check your manual on that one (may not apply)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Food for thought additional stuff....you just acquired.....how old is fuel? Any presence of water?
If you haven't already....purge the fuel...add fresh with an ethanol treatment/stabilizer type additive. Fuel today "separates" in alarmingly short periods.

Also check integrity of clutch switch, terminals, connector and associated wiring. Some clutch switches (late model Honda and Suzuki for example) double as "throttle assist" switches....actually raising RPM a prescribed amount when clutch pulled....check your manual on that one (may not apply)
Thank you!

Fuel is fresh, i have already tried fuel stabilizer/injector cleaner additive. No sign of water in the fuel system. I changed and secured MAP sensor hose before, just to be sure. I have the proper service manual for the modell, i made all the work according to it. I entered dealer mode 1 and 2 to read stored error codes, nothing. On STP sensor I mean Sub Throttle Position sensor.

On first service, i found some loose connection on air inlet, after i fixed it, the vacuum pressure normalized, and the cold start rpm went up to 4000-4500 rpm. I checked rhe Sub Throttle Position Sensor has been adjusted out of the factory default value. I think the previous owner tried to compensate the air leak with this adjustment. Fortunately, Kawasaki marked the factory position with dots on the sensor and throttle body, so i managed to align it back, and the cold start idle went back to normal, ~2000 rmp. Maybe need more precise calibration.....i will give it a try.

For sensors output voltage inspection, i need a special harness cable, it is under way. I have checked resistance values so far, they are normal according to manual.
Clutch switch was dirty, i cleaned it. Maybe it is worn out, i will change it to a new one, and report back... By the way i think kawasaki implemented some kind of throttle assist function in the ECU programme, but i did not find any clue in the manual.

Next step to have a deeper look into the wiring and connectors, maybe one of the wires shorted or grounded....

Unfortunately, the weather is pretty bad now, so i cannot test the effects of the suggested changes. I will report back as soon as i can. Thanks in advance!
 

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Chasing electrical gremlins can be tricky but sounds like you're doing all the right stuff. Ah, you're in UK. Weather could be a factor too, if PO left bike exposed....any electrical connectors and terminals need inspection for corrosion. I'd check all ground points too. And the PO playing around could add another unknown factor.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you for the advices! Actually, i am from Hungary :). I'll check ground points too.
 
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