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Discussion Starter #1
How to install a Factroy Pro shift Kit, and Evo Star in a 2005/2006 Kawasaki ZX6R 636.





First Note that the Factory Pro Kit does not come with the detent arm for the 05/06 zx6r. kawasaki has already changed the design and now includes a micro bearing detent arm. the kit includes a new clutch cover gasket, an evo shift star, and stiffer spring.

Also please note that before you start this project. you will need to order a new Clutch Hub Nut as this part needs to be replaced once pulled. the part number is 92210.

Pay close attention to the torque specs. several of these are in in-lbs. some are in ft-lbs, but most are in in-lbs. failure to heed this will result in some serious problems.

The time for this job is some where between 2 and 5 hours depending on how mechanically inclined you are.

Tools Required are, Torque wrench (rated up to 100 ft-lbs), a torque wrench (rated from 60-100 in-lbs) please note this is not required but very helpful, a clutch tool (not required but agian very helpful). a set of metric allen wrenches (hex wrenches), metric socket set (be sure that you have a 6 point 27mm socket as well, metric wrenches, and air impact wrench is helpful as well, blue LOC-TITE (i can not stress this enough), an oil drain pan, rear bike stand (not required, but very helpful), several shop towels or rags, couple of magnetic parts dishes, or plastic bowls to keep nuts and bolts in and seperated, and 2 4mm bolts.

Start off by putting your bike up on the stands, remove the body work and drain the oil, and dis connect the clutch from the clutch cover. after all the oil is finnished draining, remove the clutch cover bolts shown below. (Please note that the three bolts marked with the red lines are longer than the rest and need to be placed back in the same holes they came out of)




You are now left with the clutch exposed. remove the 6 clutch spring bolts. marked below in yellow.






Please note how the first clutch plate is set differantly than the rest. and then remove the clutch plates, and set aside in a clean place.





Now you need to remove the clutch hub nut. be careful here, only use a 6 point 27mm socket. i used a 12 point because it is all that i had and ended up rounding the nut. if this happens you will need a cold chisel to break the nut off (not fun). to get this nut off you will need to use the clutch tool, or you can put the bike in gear place a WOODEN broom handle through the spokes on your wheels and let the handle rest on the swing arm to keep the wheel from turning.




Here is what i did to my nut. not pretty. the gashes in the nut are from where i used the cold chisel the break the nut loose.






After you remove the clutch hub nut, you will need to remove the torque limiter springs. there should be 4 of them. each one has a little ear in the center pointing toward the motor.






Your clutch should now look like this. Remove the clutch bub, and the sub clutch hub.





Remove the spacer shown below.





Screw 2 4mm bolts in to the sleeve inside of the clutch housing, and pull out the sleeve and needle bearing carrier.





Here is what the needle bearing carrier looks like.





Remove the clutch housing





Remove the Spacer shown below. note: the lip of the spacer faces toward the inner bearing.






Remove the shift shaft assembly (you must first unbolt the shift lever that is connected to the linkage on the left side of the bike.)







Remove the detent arm bolt, followed by the shift star. note: the differances in the shift star designs. also note that this photo is of the evo star already installed. the grey star is the stock kawasaki shift star.





Install the new shift star. torque down the shift star bolt to 104 IN-LBS. and install the new shift spring. reinstall the detent arm and new shift spring and torque down to 104 in-lbs. (please note that i did not use the new spring as i had a binding issue with the detent are binding on the bolt that holds it in.)

Then reinstall the shift shaft arm assembly. and the shifting linkage.

From this point on EVERY nut and bolt you install needs to have loc-tite applied to the threads. i can not stress this enough. Loc-tite everything.

install the spacer back on the clutch shaft remembering to place the lip on the inside of the motor facing the beaging.






Reinstall the clutch hubs (inner and outer), needle bearings, the clutch needle bearing sleeve, and then the torque limiter springs. place the new Clutch hub not on and torque down to a nice 100 ft-lbs. (note: i had my neighbor hold the clutch tool while i torqued the nut back down. the clutch tool slipped several times and i was never able to get my torque wrench to click at the 100 ft-lbs mark. i know i am close but my wrench just never clicked. i ended up not getting i quite to the 100 ft-lbs mark. i do not see this as being a future issue, but it does need to be close to the propper torque specified as possiable.)

Reinstall the clutch plates and remember that the last clutch fiber is set differantly than the rest.


 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ted said:
about how long did this take
took me about a week. but that is because i didnt order the nut ahead of time. but if you are really good, then about 2-2.5 hours. if you need to refer to this wright up for every step and picture, then probably about 5 hours or so.

i will finnish the wright up later this week or weekend. will include all the torque specs
 

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Discussion Starter #10
ybanshee68 said:
Can you get this for the 10r to?
ya, its available for the 10 as well.


i still need to finnish the right up and include all torque specs for puttting it back togather, but i jsut dont have the time at home, and keep forgetting to bring my book to work. [B)]
 

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before i drop the $$ on this, helo how much did this change the tranny?? install looks pretty basic & something i could do pretty easily, but before i tackle that i'd like to know just how much over stock it changed the shifting, thanks in advance
 

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J_fukin_t said:
before i drop the $$ on this, helo how much did this change the tranny?? install looks pretty basic & something i could do pretty easily, but before i tackle that i'd like to know just how much over stock it changed the shifting, thanks in advance
[:+1]
 

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Straight from the Factory Pro website

"The simple "roller bearing detent arm, FPT arm spring and a gasket" kits are designed to get rid of most missed shifts, are about 10%-15% firmer than stock to shift, but do the job of speeding up shifting and help keeping missed shifts from damaging your gears. Firmer spring to speed up shifting and less friction with the roller bearing to let the shift drum move quicker."

If your considering it, plan on droppin $170 for it :(
 
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