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umm....i just did the other day....lol it was interesting...its suposed to be .005 to .008 and it was .001 so now adjusted it to .005 i was kinda shocked..but anyway....i used one i got from candian tire it was about a half inch thick and they slid out u know...kinda like a jack knife.
 

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How hard is it to check and adjust your valves Andy? I've never done it before, but I know I'm going to get elbow deep in bike maintenance this winter.......
 

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Get a feeler guage that has bent blades and the job will be a little easier.

I adjusted the valves on my '95 ZX-6R at 15,000 and all the exhuasts were too tight as were a couple of the intakes. Checking the valves is pretty simple, pulling the cams and getting them back correctly is a bitch. I must have had them on and off half a dozen times before I got it right.

Do yourself a favor and map the shim size on every valve when you take the cams off the first time. That way next time you can measure the clearance and order them shims you need without having to remove the cams.

After you get it back together always turn the engine through a couple of revolutions by hand to make sure there is no interference. If one of the cams is off a tooth and you try to start it you will be buying new valves and maybe pistons.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
"Checking the valves is pretty simple, pulling the cams and getting them back correctly is a bitch. I must have had them on and off half a dozen times before I got it right. "

yeah this is the first time I'm doing and and checking them seems easy enough according to my manual, but if I need to replace shims, that's when thinsg get iterestings.

Any more pointers if I have to replace the shims? Did you use the Kawasaki manual? was it pretty accurate? I have ran into a few cases where the manual for my 2002 isn't as details or as accurate as I think it should be.

Aslo I read it better to run the valves on the lose side...why is this the case? more power? or just better protecting since tight valves case possible damage something?
 

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I used an inch feeler gauge and found it easier to do everything in inches rather that to risk a mars lander style foul up. The shims won't have marks on them so you will have to figure out what they are by measuring the. A dial caliper is accurate enough to tell what they are.

Valves generally close up over time so it is better to start out on the loose side.

In the manual it makes a big deal out of the number of links from mark to mark. Pay close attention to this. The pictures suck but the manual is accurate.

Make sure you turn the engine over by hand when you get it back together. If the cams are one tooth off it won't turn because a valve will be hitting the piston.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have a digital standard/metric dial caliper so that should work.

This may sound strange, but what is the best way to turn the engine over by hand? Some sorta of wrench on the "flywheel" thingy or whatever you call it?
 

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You will have to have the timing cover off on the right side of the engine so you can turn the engine over there. The rotor is attached to the end of the crank.
 

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Andy - you never go to CW any more. Anyhoo - Terry was helping me out with the valves on my GS500... and I'm going to be doing my 02 ZX-6R next. He was saying that it is wise to try and have them dead center of spec. If you must (especially on the exhaust because it is the hotest part of the engine) go loose so that you don't burn up the exhaust valves. He said loose on the exhaust and tight on the intake...... but center of spec if possible.
 

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In a healthy engine valves will tighten (or stay the same) over time. The tightening is caused by the valve seat wearing and the valve moving closer to the cam due to the wear.

If your valves loosen over time, that is usually caused by cam wear. Cam wear is not a good thing. If this is happening, you need to determine why. A bad cam or poor oiling could cause this.

my $0.02
 
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