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i had some 178, 180 jets from a jet kit, so i decided to see what they'd do. i put the 180s in the middle, its not lean anymore, i don't know if i've been at full boost yet but this thing is retarded fast, i need to go down on jets because if i don't ease into boost it will drop below 10:1 and sputter until it spools, if i ease in it settles around 10.5:1, i have a shinko ultrasoft and it breaks traction until i shift into 4th, don't think i've been to 100% throttle yet or up to redline in any gear when i was getting traction

i don't know where the boost is at, think i might have heard the wastegate open once, in first, so thats 11psi, I don't have any pump gas in it right now, until i figure out the tune i'm running around on race gas to be a little safer

this is so unreal

kawi, I don't see how you have time to look at the gauges, i watch my wideband with one eye and the road with the other



my cruise and idle needs to be adjusted, 12:1 most times have seen 13 with very light throttle, almost coasting, i think i'll pick up some pilot jets when i go get some other main jets

i'm trying to guess on the mains

160s maybe?

Braking traction until 4 gears, nice. Have you the stock gears. I put +1front for help to put the power on the street.

Yes, it's not possible to look all gauges and the road when i tuned on full throttle full boost. When i tuned, the first tune run, i start in 4 or 5 gears and i check only my A/F until 8-9000 rpm. After that, if the A/F is good, the second run i check the boost gauge, egt... But when i want see A/F, Boost, EGT, Speed, RPM, i put camcorder for see all gauges in same time. It's my dataloger :)

I already searched pilot jet, i never found the same model than stock. I made some test with modification stock pilot jet, but noting good. Stay with stock pilot jet. Play with air screw, it's better.

Your water metanol system is on ? What seize of jet have you ? What blend of w/M you run ? 50/50 ? Because the w/m change the A/F (rich side) and if you tune without when you turn on the w/m, you will to start again the tune. With W/M you down the main jet.

What is the plug gap ? What is the plug number ?

I like to see that. Put a camcorder on the tank for i can see that :)
 

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Discussion Starter #42
my meth is off, 1 heat range colder, .025 gap


i need to get or make a tank mount for a camera

i have stock gearing, i need to figure something out with my chain

it smacks the top of my arm when i hit a bump if I am decelerating and so much for ek zzz zero stretch technology. it stretched last night, thats for sure

i need to stop by the dealer and get jets, then siphon my tank out, think i'm gonna take it off this time, figure the time i take doing that will save me the time it takes to do the jets
 

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Discussion Starter #43
cant remember off the top of my head on the meth jet, i sized it for 200hp at 100psi injection pressure, my pump is not regulated though, it makes at least 150 psi
 

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What kind of race fuel do you take ? C16 ? You know C16 is lead fuel and it's will be to bad for your o2 sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
What kind of race fuel do you take ? C16 ? You know C16 is lead fuel and it's will be to bad for your o2 sensor.
its 110 leaded, yeah i know its bad, from the cars i've seen that run race gas they last for a while, not 50,000 miles but ong enough, i'll probably replace it once a season anyway, sensor is cheaper than a motor



i need a stiffer back spring, i noticed my tire rubbed the bottom of my trunk, and ripped my brand new plate off in the process, so i'm waiting for the cops to come over so i can make a report and go get a new plate


i raised it up in the meantime
 

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its 110 leaded, yeah i know its bad, from the cars i've seen that run race gas they last for a while, not 50,000 miles but ong enough, i'll probably replace it once a season anyway, sensor is cheaper than a motor



i need a stiffer back spring, i noticed my tire rubbed the bottom of my trunk, and ripped my brand new plate off in the process, so i'm waiting for the cops to come over so i can make a report and go get a new plate


i raised it up in the meantime

Right, the o2 sensor is cheaper than a motor. lol

i'm asking if when you tuned with 110 lead, when you return to pump fuel it's will be the same jetting ?
 

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Discussion Starter #47
it may be a little off, the fuels specific gravity has more to do with it than the octane, you can tune leaner with race fuel if you like, but i'm not pushing for that last hp, i'm gonna say i have the fastest bike in town as of now, no need to push it for that last bit of power



i'm gonna say you are nuts for riding that bike without the extended arm, i couldn't imagine



i already have plans for the winter, going to rebuild the plenum and try to integrate a air to water intercooler core into it, would like to remake my turbo manifold also
 

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Discussion Starter #48 (Edited)
well i dropped the main jets down 20 to 160

seems better under boost, didnt get to run in 3rd or 4th though looks like around 12:1 afr

still rich just before boost, down in the 10s 11.5 to 12.5 during idle and cruise, i really need to work on that

need to change plugs, i think they are fouled, started missing later in the night just as boost would come on, would not doubt it considering how rich it was with the 180 jets and my rich idle and cruise

thought I fixed my return line oil leak, doesnt look like it now, i'm gonna switch to an -an style return


good news is this thing is ridiculous, and the shinko ultrasoft is a sticky ass tire, i pulled the front wheel off the ground when i shifted into 2nd under full boost, not an easy feat on the street, lowered with an 8 inch arm
 

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You guy's are nuts riding on Turboed bikes.

I have a Turbo on my car and it's fast, but still not as fast as my stockish 9R.

FYI they do make electronic Fuel PSI guages, I have one in my car. Mine is from DakotaDigital but there are many others.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
You guy's are nuts riding on Turboed bikes.

I have a Turbo on my car and it's fast, but still not as fast as my stockish 9R.

FYI they do make electronic Fuel PSI guages, I have one in my car. Mine is from DakotaDigital but there are many others.
yeah i know, but i'm at the point where i don't want to put much more money in this thing, I probably have close to what i paid for this thing in additional parts. if i include my design time and labor time I don't even like to think of it.

i'm wondering what it will cost me to switch to fuel injection now, if anything that is my next big expense if I can't get these carbs dialed in, if i can get the carbs dialed in it's gonna be rods, head studs and a turbo upgrade and maybe some crank work
 

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yeah i know, but i'm at the point where i don't want to put much more money in this thing, I probably have close to what i paid for this thing in additional parts. if i include my design time and labor time I don't even like to think of it.

i'm wondering what it will cost me to switch to fuel injection now, if anything that is my next big expense if I can't get these carbs dialed in, if i can get the carbs dialed in it's gonna be rods, head studs and a turbo upgrade and maybe some crank work

Yeah trust me I know, I've probably put 20k into my car over the last 8 years by adding the Turbo, not including the car itself. :eek:

The Fuel PSI gauge should only be around $100. They are meant for Fuel injection so they'll go higher then what you need for carbs but should still work.

If I were to turbo the 9 Id do Fuel Injection as well. When I got my bike the guy told me the ZX10 is basically the same block with a different head, if that's true I would think a new head from an 04 10R along with the Throttle Bodies, ECU and wiring harness should get you close, add a programmer to mod it and your set.

Option 2 would be to get a stand alone ECU, Id probably go with MegaSquirt or MicroSquirt since they can be had for under $500, you can adjust any variable you want to get the bike running perfect. You tune with a Laptop.

MicroSquirt® by Bowling & Grippo ©2005

DIYAutoTune.com Megasquirt Kits / Assembled Engine Management Systems, Wideband o2 Sensor Systems and tuning products

I have another stand alone in my car Simple Digital Systems EM-4 since MegaSquirt was not available when I first installed my Turbo, but if I had to do it over again I would get MS for sure. Without my stand alone there is no way my car would still be running as a DD, it would have blown up long ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
i don't think the motors are similar, if anything i'd use z1000 throttle bodies, gsxr 750s will work too with a spacer to spread the two center ones apart


was thinking megasquirt as well
 

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The '06-07 ZX10 throttle bodies/injectors are almost a bolt-on upgrade for the Z1k, but are only needed on big bore or FI bikes. I am curious as to where you got your oil filter relocater (that bolts to the block) from. It almost looks like a factory piece.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
The '06-07 ZX10 throttle bodies/injectors are almost a bolt-on upgrade for the Z1k, but are only needed on big bore or FI bikes. I am curious as to where you got your oil filter relocater (that bolts to the block) from. It almost looks like a factory piece.
honestly i can't remember, i'll look and see if it has a brand name, one thing i had to do was buy an m18 bolt, cut the end off, stick it in a lathe and bore the center out


i screwed that into the block, and screwed the remote mount onto that, i had to do away with the oil/water heat exchanger, which is why i needed to make my own pipe out of the block, could not find one anywhere
 

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honestly i can't remember, i'll look and see if it has a brand name, one thing i had to do was buy an m18 bolt, cut the end off, stick it in a lathe and bore the center out


i screwed that into the block, and screwed the remote mount onto that, i had to do away with the oil/water heat exchanger, which is why i needed to make my own pipe out of the block, could not find one anywhere
That'd be great if you could get me that info. I found the Muzzys relocator kit and it looks like a quality piece, but that's a steep price to pay just to move my filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
fried my o2 sensor I think



reading pretty steady 14.9 when it usually fluctuates

i'm pretty rough on it and do pretty much everything that you arent supposed to

but 150 miles or so, fuck


race gas all the time

its been running excessively rich while i've been tuning

its mounted an inch from the turbo

and I left the sensor on with the bike not running(guess this is really bad, nice that they don't mention this in what little paperwork i got) this is probably what killed it






good news, i have the highway cruise afr good, 14:1, down around 12 under boost


need to mess with the pilot jet, idle is confusing me, i turned the air bleed out another turn and it seems richer most times, its 4 turns out

one step at a time

day by day
 

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fried my o2 sensor I think



reading pretty steady 14.9 when it usually fluctuates

i'm pretty rough on it and do pretty much everything that you arent supposed to

but 150 miles or so, fuck


race gas all the time

its been running excessively rich while i've been tuning

its mounted an inch from the turbo

and I left the sensor on with the bike not running(guess this is really bad, nice that they don't mention this in what little paperwork i got) this is probably what killed it






good news, i have the highway cruise afr good, 14:1, down around 12 under boost


need to mess with the pilot jet, idle is confusing me, i turned the air bleed out another turn and it seems richer most times, its 4 turns out

one step at a time

day by day

The fuel race with lead is too bad for 02 sensor. I never ran with race fuel(lead), but i read the lead kill very fast the 02 sensor.

When you turn out the air bleed you add fuel. I will give you another good information. I set my air bleed to 1 to 1.5 turn out max. The air bleed add fuel on all rpm, idle to max rpm. But the majeur effect is on idle. Like you said when you tune carbs, make only one thing at a time.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
The fuel race with lead is too bad for 02 sensor. I never ran with race fuel(lead), but i read the lead kill very fast the 02 sensor.

When you turn out the air bleed you add fuel. I will give you another good information. I set my air bleed to 1 to 1.5 turn out max. The air bleed add fuel on all rpm, idle to max rpm. But the majeur effect is on idle. Like you said when you tune carbs, make only one thing at a time.


yeah, i had some confusion to the air bleed, some places said out, some places said in, i figured out was letting more air mix with the idle circuit, guess i was wrong

i think i messed up th o2 by leaving it on with the bike off, guess it causes the heater circut to run and it burns it out.

found this from bosch

"Bosch technical information states the useful service life of the Bosch sensor itself is 100,000 miles or 10 years. Leaded fuel is not recommended with any O2 sensor and will severly shorten the life of the sensor, lead content of .6 g/l drops life to 15,000 miles."
 

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Thrust me, the air bleed scew add somme fuel when you turn out.

Close it and turn out 1 to 1,5 turn and you will around 14 :1 on idle. After don't touch the air bleed. Readjust the main jet on full throttle full boost 11,5 to 11,9 A/F and after adjust the height of needle for have 14:1 A/F on crusing. After recheck the A/F on idle and readjust the air bleed close by step 1/4 turn if you are rich and open 1/4 turn out if you are lean for fine tuning if is not between 13,8 and 14,7 A/F. I know what i tell. I made many, many, many, many, many... tests (more hours than you can think) for tuned carbs with turbo. Try that and write me back your result.
 
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