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First off, you're right, this isn't normal. Is any exhaust exiting via the tailpipe? It looks like the airflow is inverted here as I think the hose where the exhaust is exiting the engine is actually supposed to be sucking in air. Or at least that's what I think it is, I'm a bit disoriented.
The first thing I'd do is go around with the service manual and make sure all hoses are properly attached at the right spec, and any leaking hoses are replaced.


EDIT: You might check the actual valves before you go through the process of trying to replace the cam chain. It's possible that the intake ones are just not closing completely and it might just be a matter of addressing that issue.

The next thing I'd do is seriously look at the cam chain and timing. One of the things I didn't like about Clymer's is that it was somewhat vague about checking the cam chain tension, but it was quite clear about lining up the exhaust line on one of the gears with the intake on the other and them both with the appropriate line on the 3rd sprocket down the other end of the engine. I could be wrong, but I suspect that the timing is off or the chain is in need of replacement.

I wouldn't personally recommend doing this work yourself as it's incredibly invasive and time consuming.
 

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Blowby......the curved hose shown at 1:25 is the crankcase vent hose.....meant to be plugged into the airbox and fumes "rebreathed"
The piston rings may be worn or some other condition creating your extreme blowby.

Seems to be running on and off on 1 cylinder

Some suggestions....

compression test
valve clearance check
a *real* carburetor clean (not just a spray job)
verification of ignition system component integrity
return to factory airbox

Thats just immediate requirements....then see what you've got and progress from there. Its really a matter of engine tuning, starting from the inside and working outwards.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Blowby......the curved hose shown at 1:25 is the crankcase vent hose.....meant to be plugged into the airbox and fumes "rebreathed"
The piston rings may be worn or some other condition creating your extreme blowby.

Seems to be running on and off on 1 cylinder

Some suggestions....

compression test
valve clearance check
a *real* carburetor clean (not just a spray job)
verification of ignition system component integrity
return to factory airbox

Thats just immediate requirements....then see what you've got and progress from there. Its really a matter of engine tuning, starting from the inside and working outwards.
I Replaced the stater and did not put enough oil in for the test drive and the thing shot hot oil out of the crankcase vent hose. I think i fucked up the gasket maybe? also the crankcase hose was never connected to the air box. which has also been destroyed to get the damn thing out. for two years i wasnt even able to start the damn thing. but smoke is coming out of the exhaust normally. and the motor sounds like its working. when i cleaned the carb i take every piece off and clean the shit out of it. what do you mean by verification of ignition system component.? Thanks!
 

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inspection of coil terminals, spark plug wire and cap, that each is receiving voltage and delivering adequate spark throughout the RPM range, correct, properly gapped and torqued spark plugs.

Fresh fuel in a verified non rusted, clean tank. A working petcock, no internal faults or vac leaks...properly installed and delivering fuel when vacuum applied only. no leaks, vacuum or fuel.

Airbox gone in lieu of pods? Jetting changes are required for adequate running throughout RPM range. Simply cleaning every piece is only part of the carb process....jetting, adjustments, new orings everywhere and careful, proper setup of the float and pilot systems are all critical to good running.

Getting it to run and getting it to run *properly* entail different requirements. As I posted, a matter of fine tuning and careful setup of the many systems involved.

Good luck with it.
 
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