Frame ports near airbox
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28,267 Posts
don't block those off. your bike will melt.
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318 Posts
they are designed to keep the frame cool, sounds funny but its true.
when it gets hot from the engine it becomes more flexable. IE I taped mine with duct tape because im only running 7 lap sprint races. not really enough time for the frame to really start flexing. now say if you were racing the AMA full 24lap races.... yeah you would want to leave them open.
also pull your water catch on your intake duct and tape it on the inside. and pull the wire screen too. : )
Joined
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235 Posts
Update: During my tear down I decided to clean the whole intake duct work up and get it race ready. Here's what I did.
1. What you'll need.
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2. Frame ports in question.
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3. I used the file to file down the burrs left from production, this is to create a smooth mating surface for the tape.
I then used the compressed air to blow out the metal shavings and dust.
Next, I used the cleaner and scrubbed the area to make sure the mating surface was clear of all debris.
Lastly, using the high-temp(300°) metal based tape, I taped off the ports.
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4. Next I removed the resonator box on the bottom of the ram-air plumbing.
This does nothing but quiet the intake sound.
It's a muffler for the intake, nothing more, nothing less.
![]()
5. Using the same process as above, I cleaned the suface and taped it off.
I chose this method rather than simply plugging the hole,
as it should decrease turbulance caused by the uneven surface of the intake tract left by the resonator.
The tape will provide a smoother transition to the air box and throttlebodies.
![]()
6. Close up.
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7. Pictured here are the water drains.
These are on the bottom of the airbox and 'leak' water in the event water begins to puddle in the airbox.
The problem with these is that they counteract the ram-air effect.
In optimal conditions, a ram-air effect can create positive pressure in the air-box,
something to the tune of 1-2psi at high speeds.
With the holes in place, they also leak pressure, and essentially dimish the ram-air effect.
![]()
8. I would not recommend this modification to anyone that rides,
or may potentially ride, in the rain. Tape them off.
![]()
9. Now you can enjoy a hotter frame on longer rides, more anxiety if it ever rains,
and a louder intake sound.
In theory, these modifications should decrease turbulance in the intake plumbing
and should thus increase intake velocity creating more power. Enjoy!
![]()
1. What you'll need.
2. Frame ports in question.
3. I used the file to file down the burrs left from production, this is to create a smooth mating surface for the tape.
I then used the compressed air to blow out the metal shavings and dust.
Next, I used the cleaner and scrubbed the area to make sure the mating surface was clear of all debris.
Lastly, using the high-temp(300°) metal based tape, I taped off the ports.
4. Next I removed the resonator box on the bottom of the ram-air plumbing.
This does nothing but quiet the intake sound.
It's a muffler for the intake, nothing more, nothing less.
5. Using the same process as above, I cleaned the suface and taped it off.
I chose this method rather than simply plugging the hole,
as it should decrease turbulance caused by the uneven surface of the intake tract left by the resonator.
The tape will provide a smoother transition to the air box and throttlebodies.
6. Close up.
7. Pictured here are the water drains.
These are on the bottom of the airbox and 'leak' water in the event water begins to puddle in the airbox.
The problem with these is that they counteract the ram-air effect.
In optimal conditions, a ram-air effect can create positive pressure in the air-box,
something to the tune of 1-2psi at high speeds.
With the holes in place, they also leak pressure, and essentially dimish the ram-air effect.
8. I would not recommend this modification to anyone that rides,
or may potentially ride, in the rain. Tape them off.
9. Now you can enjoy a hotter frame on longer rides, more anxiety if it ever rains,
and a louder intake sound.
In theory, these modifications should decrease turbulance in the intake plumbing
and should thus increase intake velocity creating more power. Enjoy!
Joined
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20,823 Posts
... :facepalm:
at high speeds covering up those holes in the frame may increase your CFM by like .4
at high speeds covering up those holes in the frame may increase your CFM by like .4
Joined
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235 Posts
Hrm, interesting theory about the heat transfer to the frame. I'm not convinced the amount of heat transferred to the frame from the engine is enough to cause a significant change in chassis flex. You are correct about the ports cooling the frame, but I believe this is more for rider comfort than anything. Aluminum melts at 1200°. I doubt an increase in temperature from 100° to 150°(at most) is enough to make the metal noticeably softer. Thats just my thoughts. However, that is one of the benefits of the aluminum frame. Aluminum dissipates heat very well on it's own.
As for the box on the intake duct, thats just a resonator, the water drains are further back, located on the air box. Check it out.
Joined
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235 Posts
Nothing mentioned in this thread is going to make any real significant difference. But when you've been in racing as long as I have, you learn quickly that every little bit counts. These are just a few small things on a long list of small things. This is why MotoGP and Superbike teams strive to shave ounces. Enough ounces and you get pounds.
Thanks for your input though. ::thumbup:
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