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Float needle issues I've found

Just recently I tried to set the float levels - they proved to be very tricky to set (I've done loads before and not experienced this). If they have rubber tips pry them off carefully and inspect the nipples - I found mine had corroded and had pushed the tips up, thus when trying to set the height they were inconsistent due to the corrosion either dropping out or moving the tip as it dried out!
The symptoms were: poor starting (hot), erratic idle, bogging at wot and snatching at constant throttle - it also makes the 'flat spot' at about 2 to 2.5k worse if you have after-market headers fitted. I changed all 4 valves, set the height to 15mm, removed the K&N*, fitted a standard air filter (without the mesh) and - voila! Fixed. Bike is a 1998 ZX-7R with 20,000 miles.
I hope this helps someone out who may be chasing their tales in frustration.
*I have found that the K&N accentuated the poor running issues and it needed cleaning far more frequently than I thought was practical.
 

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Zx-7r other starting issues

Probably not new but all these issues appear at roughly the same mileage (20k +):
Alarm relays pack up (remove and reconnect wiring as std)
Clutch micro switch - bypass where lawful
Sidestand switch - as above.
Ignition leads & caps - replace with NGK racing 'rubber' type.
I have suffered all the above - all within a short period of time.
 

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Hello guys I'm very new on threads and post.i have a 2001 zx750p I bought for 800.00 list of new parts = cdi ,dual coil packs , pulsing coil, fuel pump,wiring harness and new fuses in the Junction box. And bulbs in dash and neutral switch. Alot of money spent to hear this bike run. I tested all wires 12v and gray wire from switch 6v. I can not get the bike to start ??? Timing is perfect as well as the rotor. I'm getting no fire at all on my coil packs I'm super lost on this can some body please help???? When I turn the key on I hear nothing click on such as my relays.
My dash lights come on my head light doesn't I'm not even for sure if it is supposed to when it's not running ?
Any ideas on this??
 

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another one

i had exact same problem with my 97 zx7r i put new set of plugs in it was like new took for one ride and samke issue again could it be frying the plugs somehow as exactly same symtoms will start now but hard work keeping her running please help this bikes giving me more than a headache on third set of plugs in 3 short rides
 

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I know in the first part of the instructions it said that these bikes hate hot starts, and mine is definitely one of them. Drive it to work, no problems, drive it home, no issues. Drive it out for coffee and better hope that people are staying at the first place till mine is cooled off or I'm sitting there.

I see that it said one of the ways to solve this problem was with heat shielding. Could someone tell me what type of heat shielding to get and maybe post some pictures about how/where it is applied for this particular application ?

Thanks in advance
Jon
 

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I love this thread - I have a 1999 ZX750 P that I have had for several years but now I am really putting some work into it now that I have a garage again. I will post pictures in a detailed thread a little later. I do have a question though. What exactly does the "P" stand for in the ZX750P VIN?

Thanks everyone and I hope you are all still around as I realize some of these posts are almost 10 years old :-(

Here is what it looked like originally after I cleaned it up and installed the parts I bought on Ebay
( used tank and fairing pieces )
 

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supa: thank you for the kawi mod site bro!!!

good shit..

nandez: man my shit never restarts when its warmed up.. i gotta find a cure for that.. it may be float related..

ez: my man.. i'm tryin to get this "new" motor (for the turbo build) to the house, and i promise to get pics for ya and go into explicit detail on this..
the "buckets" literally look like little metal buckets. they sit inverted and cover the retainer, shim, and about 80% of the spring. a pic of this actually is in the drag racing section in Denmah's "turblo" post.. those shiney round things in the head are the fables buckets i speak of sir.

fellas, alot of the time the bike just clicks and doesn't do anything, its the "reed" relay in the lil black junction box under the seat. the ignition switch rarely goes bad, but the relay in that box tends to go after a few years of service..

the resistors do burn up in the switch tho...

the 5 or 6 wires that run into the ignition switch are 100% indeed soldered, and i had my lil gray (low voltage) wire break off, causing erratic operation.. sometimes, just by turning the key, it jarred the wire into place. for the longest time. i could not understand why i had power everywhere, but had no spark or fuel, but the trigger coil and spark plug coils were good, but my 6-E's ecu wouldn't work either (the '93-up ZX6-E CDI works on the 7-R.. how well, i don't know, but it will run and rev..) .. the fuel pump runs off the #1/#4 sparkplug coil pulse.

like i said, the wire has less than 12 V on it. it the power comes in on the white wire, thru a set of contact, thru resistor inside the switch body, then to a solder post that the (gray) wire is connected to..

should you find this is whats fuct up, use an impact driver (trust me..:D) to remove the main mounting screws for the switch, remove the switch assemble, and take out the two tiny screws holding the shibang together and peel the switch apart. note the orientation of the contact blocks!! the stationary contacts can be put in upside-down.. the moveable ones also.. but theres only contacts on one side, and its keyed.. it's pretty much fail-safe.

If, the screws are snapped off (most bikes left kawi like this.. the screws are "anti-theft") take a dremel with a 1" cutoff wheel and make a slot dead-center in the screw.. just big and deep enough to get a flat screwdriver in and twist the screw out. they're not loc-tite'd like the main mounting screws are (thus the impact driver) a 3/16" flathead is usually thin enough to get into the slot provided by the wheel.. its only maybe .02-.03" big.. if that..

as far as a writeup, i'll gladly repeat this in its own thing if you'd like to see it separate from this.. i'll try to include more retails as well.. i'm just doin this shit outta memory at 5:30am...

i will start on finding a cure for the relay, as well as making custom parts (like 2 piece pegmounts with c.f. heelgaurds) and ignition advance plates and some other shit for performance.. i will be ordering a "rotary table" for vertical milling (so i can make the stock cam gears adjustable) in about a week or two, after my new set of Mitutoyo 6" dial calipers shows up.. (for machining)

gotta watch the finances, i got mad fines and shit to pay to keep me out of jail for stuntin the fiddy last summer on the streets...:(

i'll try to stay up with ya's.. i get 1000 things going at once sometimes and i neglect my kf bretheren, and i apologize. i'm just glad i can offer some help on this.. it does me good to know this shits useful!!
So should I be getting 12 volts or 6 volts to the grey ignition wire? I've got power to it, but with a test light, its pretty low juice. (To the grey wire) ive got 12 volts everywhere, but no spark. Stumbled across this forum looking for answers. This is my first kawi and not really familiar with them. Had a nighthawk before this. Just tested the ohms on the ignition, and ive got 100 at the grey wire. However, when I run to see how many volts at the grey wire at the ignition and cdi/ignitor ive got almost 12 at each. Does that mean the ignition or the cdi box is bad????
 

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Great write up. I had the difficult starting problem too. Turns out it was the +12v wire to the ignition had slowly desoldered itself. I was worried why but your explanation about the electrical system being underrate explains it perfectly. Ever since I resoldered it and replaced the battery it fires right up now.


PS I remeber having to pop the front seat and tap on the headlight relay to get it to start sometimes.
 
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