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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here is my 2005 Ninja 500r.

I've been having some trouble with it. It is my daily driver to class and was wondering if anyone can help with my two problems

1) I recently changed the front brakes and up front there is grinding/ scooping noise about once a rotation. I don't believe it has anything to do with the rotor because if it was wouldn't it shake while braking? It's been about 3 weeks so they should be bedded right?

2) Also there is a grinding in the back when I brake. I believe I need new brakes in the back and found some pads online for cheap. However I cannot get this bolt off for the life of me. I can get the top one off just fine but the bottom is stuck


I even twisted my hex key trying to get it off :eek:



Have any ideas how to get it off? I wish I could use a socket wrench. I called the local motorcycle shop and they quoted me $100 for changing it :eek: so taking it somewhere is not really an option when I can do it for less than $15

Any help would be great! Thanks!
 

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Grinding noise
I suspect the pads might still be seating. It could be the type of pad too. If you got ceramic pads and the bike came with semi-metallic, there is often some chatter or grinding. Check for warped rotors, and inspect both sides of the rotors for pitting or rough spots. It might be you just have a high spot and it's scuffing the pads every rotation. You might also check for sticking calipers

Removing stubborn bolt
You should try a socket wrench with a hex bit driver. Looks somewhere around a 3/8s drive 8mm. A small set of hex bits should suffice. Look for bits made in Taiwan vs. China, and CR-V socket with S2 steel bit. These are fairly common today from my recent purchase of bit driver sets. If you're interested in a more complete solution check out my review on Neiko bits I bought for my bike. They're good quality and cost per bit is a lot less than you'll pay locally.

It could be from corrosion (aluminium and steel form oxides) or permanent loctite was used at some point (may be from factory).

You do risk breaking the bolt, or if there is severe corrosion possibly damaging the threads (not sure if you're bike has steel or aluminum swingarm). However, I see no real difference in a shop trying to remove it and you removing it. You would still incur the repair cost even if they broke the bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Grinding noise
I suspect the pads might still be seating. It could be the type of pad too. If you got ceramic pads and the bike came with semi-metallic, there is often some chatter or grinding. Check for warped rotors, and inspect both sides of the rotors for pitting or rough spots. It might be you just have a high spot and it's scuffing the pads every rotation. You might also check for sticking calipers

Removing stubborn bolt
You should try a socket wrench with a hex bit driver. Looks somewhere around a 3/8s drive 8mm. A small set of hex bits should suffice. Look for bits made in Taiwan vs. China, and CR-V socket with S2 steel bit. These are fairly common today from my recent purchase of bit driver sets. If you're interested in a more complete solution check out my review on Neiko bits I bought for my bike. They're good quality and cost per bit is a lot less than you'll pay locally.

It could be from corrosion (aluminium and steel form oxides) or permanent loctite was used at some point (may be from factory).

You do risk breaking the bolt, or if there is severe corrosion possibly damaging the threads (not sure if you're bike has steel or aluminum swingarm). However, I see no real difference in a shop trying to remove it and you removing it. You would still incur the repair cost even if they broke the bolt.
I bought these pads for the front
EBC Sintered HH Brake Pads Front Fits Kawasaki Ninja EX 500 1994 2009 | eBay
I'm not sure what the pads were before, I didn't know that would make a difference. I'll let them seat more and hopefully it will go away.
When one eyeing my rotor it looks dead on flat. Is there a better way to check? It seems like if it was warped you would be able to tell from looking at it from the side.

Im going to buy some hex sockets today, I didn't even think of buying those haha thanks for the recommendations with those too!
 

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The Indifference Engine
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1) A light scuffing noise is actually normal, there can be a slight high spot on the disc that doesn't actually affect the braking. You'll hear the pads gently rubbing against it as the wheel spins. However, I would double check to make sure that the pads are installed correctly. I've seen it more than once where both pads end up on the same side of the disc (bad install) and it's the piston that's actually applying braking force to one side. It never hurts to double check your work. Especially if it's loud. If everything looks good, take it to a parking lot and do a couple of emergency stops for practice that'll help bed in the pads.

2) The picture isn't very good, but it looks like there's a little more scoring than normal on the rear disc, I'd look into a better set of Allen tools. Not super familiar with American shops, but you'll want to find something that'll fit either a 3/8" or 1/2" drive ratchet. That should give you the leverage to pop it loose. Make sure that you FULLY seat the socket into the bolt or you'll strip it, then have to drill it out, which sucks. Pull with smooth, steady pressure, Some people suggest tapping with a hammer, I don't you're more likely to snap the head off IMO.
 
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