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Ok thought that i would throw it out there to see if anyone here has a solution. So my bike starts to sputter and loose power between 9 and 10000 rmp when I am at or near wide open throttle. If I ease the throttle on it's ok. This sucks for racing, last time out I had a125 blow by me on the back stretch like I was standing still. So after lots of tests at home and at the dealer what is actually happening is that the outer cylinders are cutting out under these conditions. We found this out with the timming light on the coil wires under load to see that it comes up 0000 for the rmp when it happens. A continunity test shows that the wiring is fine to the computer from the coils and the coils themselves are fine.So it it the Computer ECU I don't want to buy it and not be the problem. ANY ideas HELP!
 

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Ok thought that i would throw it out there to see if anyone here has a solution. So my bike starts to sputter and loose power between 9 and 10000 rmp when I am at or near wide open throttle. If I ease the throttle on it's ok. This sucks for racing, last time out I had a125 blow by me on the back stretch like I was standing still. So after lots of tests at home and at the dealer what is actually happening is that the outer cylinders are cutting out under these conditions. We found this out with the timming light on the coil wires under load to see that it comes up 0000 for the rmp when it happens. A continunity test shows that the wiring is fine to the computer from the coils and the coils themselves are fine.So it it the Computer ECU I don't want to buy it and not be the problem. ANY ideas HELP!
I had a problem awhile ago on my 04 636 that was doing something on the lines of this, cutting out of high end rpm. I went and bought a used fuel pump off of ebay which for some reasom seemed to fix the issue. I know when the pump on my bike went bad I noticed a loud whine sound coming from it while it was running. I would check also your kick stand switch cause awhile back some guys on here were having issues with there bike's cutting out at high end rpm because of the switch making the bike think it was down and trying to cut the ignition and engine. These are 2 things that come to mind but don't just rule this out as the problem, take your spark plugs out first off and check them, you could have a broken plug down in there not getting any spark, start with the little stuff and go from there. I doubt it's the ecu.
 

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i had the same problem .. the fix for me was simple... when i inspected the plugs closely... i discovered that i had a plug withs a loose head... i changed it out... presto chango.... fixed the problem....

good luck
 

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Check your plugs and your PCIII if you have one. Had a similar problem on my '03. Turned out my PCIII was causing the problem.
 

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Ok thought that i would throw it out there to see if anyone here has a solution. So my bike starts to sputter and loose power between 9 and 10000 rmp when I am at or near wide open throttle. If I ease the throttle on it's ok. This sucks for racing, last time out I had a125 blow by me on the back stretch like I was standing still. So after lots of tests at home and at the dealer what is actually happening is that the outer cylinders are cutting out under these conditions. We found this out with the timming light on the coil wires under load to see that it comes up 0000 for the rmp when it happens. A continunity test shows that the wiring is fine to the computer from the coils and the coils themselves are fine.So it it the Computer ECU I don't want to buy it and not be the problem. ANY ideas HELP!
Thanks for all your input guys.
It is determined to be the ECU causing the stuttering problem ... we will see when the new one arrives how will it measure up to the job. Let's keep our fingers crossed.

PS: I am happy to announce that I am this girl's new daddy!!
 

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Nope, it is not the ECU that causes the trouble ... )-:

Neil seems to be having the same trouble, but no solution. Bummer.
http://www.kawiforums.com/showthread.php?t=116525 (*EDIT)

Kawi dealer now believe that it may be a diode at the rear of the wiring harness it's in a white cap that controls the ignition. That is what we will try next. Thanks Justin.

After searching the forum and the net my friend has put together a list of things that should be also considered (thanks Jay):
- try my tank, fuel pump, the fuel line from the tank to the throttle bodies swap? I can do that during the week as my friend has the spare tank.
- the plugs? Are they OEM spark plugs? try NGK CR9E.
- cam chain tension
- air filter
- try injector cleaner or sea foam (change oil thereafter)
- the Kleen Air mod
- throttle bodies syncronized?
- the valves checked?
- the TPS checked (throttle position senor)
- the map sensor checked
- could one of the coils be toast?

ANy ideas?? PLEASE!
 

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I would start off trying the fuel pump and kickstand switch as I said in my previous post.
The bike started presenting problems when it was a race bike only (without the stand switch) and so that rules itself out. Tank and pump and the line will be next to switch ... but it will have to be after the trackday on Monday.
 
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