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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After my intro in the newbie section, I've decided to start a post for progress as well as asking for any help along the way...
Tire Wheel Fuel tank Vehicle Automotive fuel system


My friends 1997 Kawasaki ZZR 600. The bike had a few running/starting issues then eventually refused to start completely. It was passed onto a guy to fix but he admitted he's lost with electrics and there's a few burnt wires so the loom needs to be checked over to find the cause of these burnt wires.

Currently pulling the fuel tank and fairings off to get to the loom and already found a few burnt which lead to the ignition switch on the bars so these will be cut back and replaced for testing as well as the missing 30amp main fuse (shops closed so can't go get a spare yet) although I know the fuses kept blowing in the past so possible earth faults somewhere but will see where things go over the coming days/weeks (between fixing my own car as well).
Automotive tire Tire Bicycle tire Motor vehicle Bicycle handlebar
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Can anyone confirm if the 97' (R reg) ZZR 600 has the resistor in the ignition barrel?

I've made sure the battery is fully charged, checked all the earth points, sanded them back to bare metal and still no power whatsoever.
I've looked at the ignition barrel and noticed it has the tamper proof/snapped heads on the bolts so is a case of drilling but as the bike belongs to a friend, I don't want to drill then find there's no resistor inside as that means I'd have to replace the ignition. I'm reading that some have the resistor on the back of the engine block but I'm thinking that is more likely on the newer models?

If there's a way of bypassing the resistor as a way of ruling things out, I know that sort of information wouldn't be shared so easily, I'd like to know even if it's via a private msg.
 

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Yes it has.
A resistor on the back of the Engine Block is as we say in the UK Bollox ! They are all fitted in the same place, Bottom of the Ignition Barrrel.
When you say no power, You need to find out where the 12V falls down on the Igition circuit.
Battery Full Charged and Tested ?
30A Fuse good and fitted in the Starter Selonoid..
You should have Battery voltage on the White Wire from the Plug on top of the Starter Selonoid ? and this should arrive at the Ignition Barrel Multi Plug ?
Baby steps or you'll get lost ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes it has.
A resistor on the back of the Engine Block is as we say in the UK Bollox ! They are all fitted in the same place, Bottom of the Ignition Barrrel.
When you say no power, You need to find out where the 12V falls down on the Igition circuit.
Battery Full Charged and Tested ?
30A Fuse good and fitted in the Starter Selonoid..
You should have Battery voltage on the White Wire from the Plug on top of the Starter Selonoid ? and this should arrive at the Ignition Barrel Multi Plug ?
Baby steps or you'll get lost ;)
Thank you for this info! Most things I've read have said it's in the barrel but then had the odd pages saying it was the back of the block but I haven't spotted anything so far around the block so I'll stop looking there now and look at how to remove the barrel if I need to go that far....

As for the no power situation, I've fully charged the battery over night, testing at 12.5v off the bike but there is no power to the gauges, lights, horn etc at all which has led me to think that the resistor could be dead but I've not yet looked into a way of testing this through any wiring.
The 30amp fuse is fitted and testing on continuity so with knowing the fuse and battery are both good but no power on the cluster, would I still expect to see voltage on the white starter wire?
 

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Forget the resistor for now we can edify you on that over a PM it's not needed to get power to anything t this point it's only function comes into play when you try to actually start the Bike.
So
I'll attach a schematic of the Ignition System in a bit so you can trace the circuit but in short Permanant Battery Voltage on the White wire so long as the Battery is charged and the 30A fuse is inserted all the way to the Ignition Switch.
This is dependant on the Starter Relay actually being in good order, Have you disconnected it and had a thorough inspection, It could have suffered some damage as you describe and picture Burnt Wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Forget the resistor for now we can edify you on that over a PM it's not needed to get power to anything it's only function comes into play when you try to actually start the Bike.
So
I'll attach a schematic of the Ignition System in a bit so you can trace the circuit but in short Permanant Battery Voltage on the White wire so long as the Battery is charged and the 30A fuse is inserted all the way to the Ignition Switch.
This is dependant on the Starter Relay actually being in good order, Have you disconnected it and had a thorough inspection, It could have suffered some damage as you describe and picture Burnt Wiring.
Thank you! I'd appreciate any advice and diagrams as I've not been able to find any so far.

I've not pulled any relays as yet, so far I've only done an inspection of the wiring and only found burnt wires leading to the starter button, these have been completely disconnected, the screws on the switch housing have been chewed so hoping to get that removed tomorrow to check for any internal damage. I've removed any earth wire that I can find and sanded them to make sure there is a clean earth connection whilst knowing I had a good charge on the battery so was hoping to see some sort of life as I know the bike had been stood for quite some time. Tomorrow's mission will be to follow the wiring diagram and find where I'm getting voltage and I'll make sure to take note of the relay as well, I'll print the diagram so I can make a note of voltage at each spot as I go along.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thank you so much for those links!!! They're come in so helpful!

I've not managed to look at anything today as had a few family things going on and now have my car to do over the next few days so when I get some time in between, I'll get some tests done and hopefully get a clearer idea of where to go next or at least be able to come back with what I've found so far 👍

Good luck Tiger, and keep us posted 👍
Keeping my fingers crossed for this one, my friend hasn't had much luck with his bikes and always brings them to me but this is the first one that actually got me scratching head but will keep this post updated as I don't like to get beaten by things but at the same time it depends how much my friend is willing to put into the fix due to owning a CBR 600 and a Harley Davidson as well but I know he loves his ZZR so hopefully the plan of bringing it back to life works in our favour 🤞
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Still not able to do anything with the bike as my car has decided to cause problems, as the saying goes, always 1 snapped bolt away from the job being extended which is exactly what has happened... Snapped alternator casing so now on hold to order a new one and the front end of the engine bay sat in the back of the car as well as a pulled back so suspension has had to wait as welli 😏

In the meantime I have been trying to locate a right hand switch (kill switch) for the ZZR, I could cut out the burnt wires and rebuild them but as I have to drill out the old switch due to chewed screws, I know there's a risk of damaging the casing so have told the owner a new switch is the best route so I don't need to be so careful drilling it. It seems there's not many R reg (1997) zzr 600s being broken for parts so I'm wondering if any other kill switches would fit? I will attempt to cut the wiring back but still not yet seen if there's any damage inside the switch but fingers crossed the car will be sorted by Wednesday/Thursday then can 100% spend time with the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Finally run some tests!

First off I'm using a battery that is reading 12.5v on the bike...

I've run a test to the starter relay,
I'm getting 12.5v into the full black wire but nothing on the black/yellow wire that goes to the starter motor... Bridging direct from battery yo starter spins the starter motor. There is also no continuity between the 2 posts on the relay.. Is this an indication that the starter relay is broke as suspect by @KevA

I have also tested the white wire at the ignition barrel multiplug and have 12.5v on both sides of the plug.

I have also opened the fuse box to clean all the connections and now off to get new fuses just so I know they're all decent then my next step will be to pull the starter relay off the bike so I can test it even more as well as run tests on the fuse box as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Just to confirm did you jump across these 2 terminals and thestarter motor did not turn over ?

I didn't jump between the 2 terminals, I tested from battery to the black wire and was getting 12.5v

Then tested the opposite post, earth on the bike frame and positive test lead on the black/yellow post and then at the starter motor and had 0v so I put a power wire direct from the battery to the starter (by passing the relay) and the starter spun so no power passing through the relay?

I have also managed to test the fuse box, I have continuity through everything except the lighting circuits but have wondered if that is due to removing the fuse box off the bike to test indoors, currently looking into testing the CDI and rectifier with a digital test meter
 

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Ok,
Don't bother testing the CDI with a DMM you need an Analogue Meter and even then the results can be non conclusive.
You won't get continuity until the Relay is energised which usually happens when you press the start button with Ignition switched on.
So back to the testing, White wire reads Battery voltage at the plug...Good
Now Ignition switched on and see what reading you get on the:-
  1. Brown Wire
  2. Grey Wire
At that plug (Both Sides)

Brown should again read approx Battery Voltage.
Grey wire will read lower than Battery Voltage probably 6~9V
Post results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok,
Don't bother testing the CDI with a DMM you need an Analogue Meter and even then the results can be non conclusive.
You won't get continuity until the Relay is energised which usually happens when you press the start button with Ignition switched on.
So back to the testing, White wire reads Battery voltage at the plug...Good
Now Ignition switched on and see what reading you get on the:-
  1. Brown Wire
  2. Grey Wire
At that plug (Both Sides)

Brown should again read approx Battery Voltage.
Grey wire will read lower than Battery Voltage probably 6~9V
Post results.
Thank you for the advice!! I'll put the starter relay, rectifier, CDI and fuse box back on the bike tomorrow and test those 2 wires. Would they still show a voltage seeing the cluster doesn't light up when the key is turned?

I've put the battery on charge again for the night as tests and bridging it have took some power from it but I'm making sure the voltage matches each time so at least I'd know it's fully charged before testing the 2 wires. I've got the owner visiting tomorrow as well so hopefully I can start giving him a list of parts to order soon 🤞
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ok,
Don't bother testing the CDI with a DMM you need an Analogue Meter and even then the results can be non conclusive.
You won't get continuity until the Relay is energised which usually happens when you press the start button with Ignition switched on.
So back to the testing, White wire reads Battery voltage at the plug...Good
Now Ignition switched on and see what reading you get on the:-
  1. Brown Wire
  2. Grey Wire
At that plug (Both Sides)

Brown should again read approx Battery Voltage.
Grey wire will read lower than Battery Voltage probably 6~9V
Post results.
I've ran tests...

Battery 12.5v
White wire 12.5v
Brown wire 0v
Grey 6v

If I put a 12v feed into brown, the cluster lights up.... Done it with the owner with me, first time he's seen life in the bike in over 6 months!

I also bridged the starter relay between the 2 posts and the starter motor spun.
 

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OK sounds like we may have Life.
So it appears the Ignition switch is most Likely at this stage the issue.
Next task is to remove the Ignition Barrel to inspect the Switch section on the Bottom.
Looking to inspect the switch for a Poor/Broken contact on the Brown Wire terminal.

You'll need to remove the Top Yolk complete with Barrel.
 
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