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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After my intro in the newbie section, I've decided to start a post for progress as well as asking for any help along the way...
Tire Wheel Fuel tank Vehicle Automotive fuel system


My friends 1997 Kawasaki ZZR 600. The bike had a few running/starting issues then eventually refused to start completely. It was passed onto a guy to fix but he admitted he's lost with electrics and there's a few burnt wires so the loom needs to be checked over to find the cause of these burnt wires.

Currently pulling the fuel tank and fairings off to get to the loom and already found a few burnt which lead to the ignition switch on the bars so these will be cut back and replaced for testing as well as the missing 30amp main fuse (shops closed so can't go get a spare yet) although I know the fuses kept blowing in the past so possible earth faults somewhere but will see where things go over the coming days/weeks (between fixing my own car as well).
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Can anyone confirm if the 97' (R reg) ZZR 600 has the resistor in the ignition barrel?

I've made sure the battery is fully charged, checked all the earth points, sanded them back to bare metal and still no power whatsoever.
I've looked at the ignition barrel and noticed it has the tamper proof/snapped heads on the bolts so is a case of drilling but as the bike belongs to a friend, I don't want to drill then find there's no resistor inside as that means I'd have to replace the ignition. I'm reading that some have the resistor on the back of the engine block but I'm thinking that is more likely on the newer models?

If there's a way of bypassing the resistor as a way of ruling things out, I know that sort of information wouldn't be shared so easily, I'd like to know even if it's via a private msg.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes it has.
A resistor on the back of the Engine Block is as we say in the UK Bollox ! They are all fitted in the same place, Bottom of the Ignition Barrrel.
When you say no power, You need to find out where the 12V falls down on the Igition circuit.
Battery Full Charged and Tested ?
30A Fuse good and fitted in the Starter Selonoid..
You should have Battery voltage on the White Wire from the Plug on top of the Starter Selonoid ? and this should arrive at the Ignition Barrel Multi Plug ?
Baby steps or you'll get lost ;)
Thank you for this info! Most things I've read have said it's in the barrel but then had the odd pages saying it was the back of the block but I haven't spotted anything so far around the block so I'll stop looking there now and look at how to remove the barrel if I need to go that far....

As for the no power situation, I've fully charged the battery over night, testing at 12.5v off the bike but there is no power to the gauges, lights, horn etc at all which has led me to think that the resistor could be dead but I've not yet looked into a way of testing this through any wiring.
The 30amp fuse is fitted and testing on continuity so with knowing the fuse and battery are both good but no power on the cluster, would I still expect to see voltage on the white starter wire?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Forget the resistor for now we can edify you on that over a PM it's not needed to get power to anything it's only function comes into play when you try to actually start the Bike.
So
I'll attach a schematic of the Ignition System in a bit so you can trace the circuit but in short Permanant Battery Voltage on the White wire so long as the Battery is charged and the 30A fuse is inserted all the way to the Ignition Switch.
This is dependant on the Starter Relay actually being in good order, Have you disconnected it and had a thorough inspection, It could have suffered some damage as you describe and picture Burnt Wiring.
Thank you! I'd appreciate any advice and diagrams as I've not been able to find any so far.

I've not pulled any relays as yet, so far I've only done an inspection of the wiring and only found burnt wires leading to the starter button, these have been completely disconnected, the screws on the switch housing have been chewed so hoping to get that removed tomorrow to check for any internal damage. I've removed any earth wire that I can find and sanded them to make sure there is a clean earth connection whilst knowing I had a good charge on the battery so was hoping to see some sort of life as I know the bike had been stood for quite some time. Tomorrow's mission will be to follow the wiring diagram and find where I'm getting voltage and I'll make sure to take note of the relay as well, I'll print the diagram so I can make a note of voltage at each spot as I go along.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thank you so much for those links!!! They're come in so helpful!

I've not managed to look at anything today as had a few family things going on and now have my car to do over the next few days so when I get some time in between, I'll get some tests done and hopefully get a clearer idea of where to go next or at least be able to come back with what I've found so far 👍

Good luck Tiger, and keep us posted 👍
Keeping my fingers crossed for this one, my friend hasn't had much luck with his bikes and always brings them to me but this is the first one that actually got me scratching head but will keep this post updated as I don't like to get beaten by things but at the same time it depends how much my friend is willing to put into the fix due to owning a CBR 600 and a Harley Davidson as well but I know he loves his ZZR so hopefully the plan of bringing it back to life works in our favour 🤞
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Still not able to do anything with the bike as my car has decided to cause problems, as the saying goes, always 1 snapped bolt away from the job being extended which is exactly what has happened... Snapped alternator casing so now on hold to order a new one and the front end of the engine bay sat in the back of the car as well as a pulled back so suspension has had to wait as welli 😏

In the meantime I have been trying to locate a right hand switch (kill switch) for the ZZR, I could cut out the burnt wires and rebuild them but as I have to drill out the old switch due to chewed screws, I know there's a risk of damaging the casing so have told the owner a new switch is the best route so I don't need to be so careful drilling it. It seems there's not many R reg (1997) zzr 600s being broken for parts so I'm wondering if any other kill switches would fit? I will attempt to cut the wiring back but still not yet seen if there's any damage inside the switch but fingers crossed the car will be sorted by Wednesday/Thursday then can 100% spend time with the bike.
 
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